Thanks for the info on the bed, I was guessing it was from a military trailer having seen similar ones.
From a G506 truck makes more sense. What little I read so far indicates the bed is from the 40's, need to scrape the paint off the tag and see what it reveals. (
edit, did that, made in 1945) I'll get more pictures in time too.
Might be the original bed to the truck though it was previously used/surplus at the time.
The truck fits well in the garage and meets approval.
PICTURE On my lunch break the day after getting it home I made the rounds to the Insurance agent, DMV, and county office for all the necessary paperwork. After getting home from work I took it for a couple mile drive up the road to a neighbor/friends house. It was pretty weak on the hills but drove OK. While we were checking it out in his driveway I noticed some oil on the frame under the bed... looking closer it was brake fluid from a rusted through brake line to the rear axle. I drove carefully home and the brakes continued to work luckily enough.
Friday I was back at work until after lunch I found out a couple local stovebolters were headed to the junkyard. Same yard I had spoken for a set of 8 lug dual 19.5" wheels about a year prior and hadn't made the time to go fetch yet. Now with a truck that could actually use the wheels for it was the perfect time to get them before I missed out on the deal. Sorry I forgot the pictures but all 6 with 8R19.5 tires fit in the back of my VW station wagon. Made for a nice afternoon trip and good to see some Stovebolters.
Saturday morning a local Stovebolter stopped by to lend a hand with the brake line replacement. He also picked up a few pointers on making brake lines, the part of his own project next to tackle.
Saturday midday two more Stovebolters stopped by to check out the truck and lend a hand with brake bleeding and carburetor fiddling.
The apparent carburetor troubles I first suspected may be just a vacuum leak. To test I sprayed ether/starting fluid on all the gaskets and such while running. Had the engine rpm picked up it would indicate a leak, we couldn't find one.
Next some collective brain storming lead to checking the float level and the accelerator pump. The float level was off some.
It has a Zenith model 228 carburetor. Here are some useful links for that.
http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Zenith/Zenith%20Model%2028%20228.htmlhttp://c779252.r52.cf2.rackcdn.com/zenith_28_identification.pdfhttp://www.zenithfuelsystems.com/downdraft_228.htmhttp://www.autotestsys.com/Zenith.htmWe found the accelerator pump has 3 positions/stroke lengths for different tuning and only one clip is to be used in one of those positions. The carb was assembled with two clips capturing the accelerator linkage on the pump rod, this we decided and later confirmed was incorrect.
Originally these carbs used a steel accelerator pump plunger with no rubber cup and therefore very little friction. The throttle/accelerator pump linkage pushes on a spring when accelerating and that spring more gradually pushes the plunger down, the connection is not rigid. Problem was the rubber pump cup (aftermarket rebuild kit) was so sticky in the bore the spring could not overcome it, the pump would not function at all. Which lead to someone's idea to put an extra clip on the pump rod linking it solidly, this causes bent linkage if you move the throttle too quickly.
After evaluating the one whole, two half carburetors, and a box of little parts we decided I'd be better off looking for a carb in better shape.
Not to let a poorly running engine keep us from a trip to the local brewery we 3 packed into the cab and took it out for the second voyage. The beverages were good and the company better. Some little backfires and stumbling on the hills made for an interesting but successful ride back home.
Next some necessary yet boring brake work,
Grigg
