Deve, most of the time you don't have to take the soldered "cap" off. The stem just didn't feel right to me so I took it completely apart. Turns out one of the little "pointed guides" on the end of the stem was bent and it would not seat in the hole correctly. Look at one of the pics where you can see down inside the end off tube and you can see where the end of the stem seats.....you won't see that if you don't take the "cap" off the end.
There is only one part to the "kit". Its Balkamp #660-1000 at NAPA and a couple years ago cost $10. Its really just a "seal".
Advice?.... use a sharp thin blade to lift the tabs and I'd make sure they are "warn" as they may break off if its cold weather.
I used the regular soldering like I do for copper water pipes to put the 'cap" back on.
The is a long stem going to the valve that you turn which makes the valve restrict the flow thus reducing, or adding heat to the cab.....if I remembered this correctly. It was around 2011 when I rebuilt mine. I have also not used it as I decided to add the heat and A/C to my panel.
Hope this helps.
EDIT: Deve, just think of the valve as "temperature control" as that pretty much says it all. Its just and earlier version of what we have today!
Last edited by Achipmunk; 10/18/2015 4:20 AM.
