Brad, what kind of tape is that, looks to be a cloth medical tape? Get some of the packing tape with the fiber strands running longitudinally, makes a much better (more accurate) FSP. For something with a lot of shape in the panel, 1" wide is about as wide as you'd need as it will lay flatter in some of the high crown areas than wider tape. Use about 1/2 width overlap when applying the tape. Now when you make the next patch you should be able to take it and the FSP to the hobby shop and e-wheel until the FSP fits the patch. Also, there are two different theories of using the English wheel, one uses pressure, the other uses "pumping" with the wheels farther apart. Read through this before you have another go at the English wheel..
http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=10337 The pressure theory squeezes the metal panel between the pressure of the two wheels, pushing metal to the side as you go, eventually taking the shape of the radius of the anvil. This normally also leaves the tell-tale tracks everywhere. The pumping method uses the wheels farther apart, the panel is manipulated into the shape you are trying to put into the panel by pulling in at the sides and holding the shape there, then the wheels used with a gap between to act as a lever or fulcrum effect to push/pull shape where needed in a panel. Where some of the HF English wheels are absolute junk due to the wheels being out of round and floppy frames, this becomes less of an issue with the pumping method where someone should be able to use one to get adequate results if using that method. If relying on the "pressure" method, then the inaccuracy of the parts leads to more noticeable inconsistency in the finish.
