From what I've read, I'm thinking I'll make some relief cuts for the lower bend (inwards & not visible) in order to keep the " curve" profile spot on.
Brad, you should be able to use a shrinker on the lower flange to help provide the radius. The relief "pie" cuts are not the best choice as now you have more welding to do and it also runs a greater risk of missed welds for rust trap voids, especially given the dirt/road spray, mud that will get thrown up there from the tires.. Here's a thread I did on flange shrinking to accomplish what you need, and it covers a couple different methods. (Kerry also has a powered shrinker called a Piccolo that would have it done in less than a minute..)
[color:#3333FF]Flange Shrinking[/color] For the pattern that you'll use, and since you have an English Wheel to help add some shape, I'd suggest using a flexible shape pattern, as shown here, towards the bottom of the post... You'll see using craft paper to help read a panel as to whether it needs shrinking or stretching, and then using the FSP to have a reference to use on your patch..
[color:#3333FF]OJ Higgins Meet Part 1[/color] For the use of the FSP, this gives a brief scenario where a patch has been made, and the FSP is laid on top of it. Any loose areas in the middle of the FSP would show that more shape is needed to fill out the loose pattern. Loose around the edges of the FSP would show that you have too much shape in the middle.
[color:#3333FF]OJ Higgins Meet Part 2[/color] Also, towards the bottom you'll see a patch formed for a Stovebolt AD fender, using the above described methods. Now sure if your fender has any remnants still inside, but the inner view of the fender in that post shows what's left of a strip of metal on the inside that reinforces the bolting area of the running board. This is where I was suggesting to use the 16 ga steel.
