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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,080 Posts1,055,952 Members48,430 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 | i am about to start painting my truck and need information on what type of paint and primer to use. this is not a show truck by any means more like a restomode rat without the rust.just want it to look decent and dont have the resources for a high dollar paint job. im going to use a hf paint gun and do it myself.
Thanks John | | | | | Joined: Feb 2010 Posts: 323 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2010 Posts: 323 | I would go to all of your local auto paint stores and ask them. go with the one your most comfortable with. Epoxy primer for sure.
These old bolts are in my blood. Hard thing is focusing on just one.
1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel 1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 | thanks goneagain.any brand names i should look for on paint and primer.
Last edited by johns truck; 10/26/2013 9:14 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | John, you want to go with basecoat clearcoat or the single stage?.. and don't forget, a lot of shops use/have the store brand or "shop line". | | | | | Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2008 Posts: 544 | I would look into SPI (southern polyurethanes). They sell primers and clears, and a select few colors (white, black, red) in both single stage and base/clear. Very popular on the hot rod/resto circuit, economical, high quality, and made in the USA! I plan to use their products for my truck when I get to that point. www.southernpolyurethanes.com | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 | | | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 165 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 165 | Ditto on the SPI but get their black epoxy primer...EXCELLENT rat rod finish look and hard as nails - no top coat needed. For primer I use a $10 HF purple gun and it lays down very well. No reducer is needed though that will extend your dry times.
36 Chevy 1.5 ton - rusting away 52 Chevy 3100 - in progress 72 Chevy K20 - DD
PANTS UP DON'T LOOT! PANTS UP DON'T LOOT!
NEVER watch another man eat a banana.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 | how much primer do you think it will take to paint a 51 1/2 ton.i want to epoxy the whole truck then use high build primer then epoxy over that. then base clear coat it. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | You could figure 7oz per coat per panel and be close.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | I cant answer that since the most I have done so far is the frame and front and rear-end. The frame took 36 oz (two 18 oz cups). The rear end was about 12 oz and the front including many small parts was another 18 oz. So considering the mass of inside/outside cab, door, fenders, hood, etc, etc. I would start out with a gallon of DPLF40 (PPG) and 401 or 402 catalyst. If you purchase locally, you can always go running back to the store for more if you run out. Caso knows better than me. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | John... Think about skipping buying the high build and just using epoxy all the way to sealer. 3 coats of SPI epoxy = 2 coats of 2K high build more or less.
I like my first coat over metal to be white then I switch to black or grey so as I'm sanding I always know to stop when I hit white...
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 165 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2013 Posts: 165 | Hey John - not sure what product you intend on using but if you choose the SPI epoxy primer it is a high build product. They do offer a true hi-build but the owner of the company generally does not push it as he feels that their 1:1 epoxy builds well enough. I agree - and this would save you cashage on your paint bill.
Good Luck Scott
36 Chevy 1.5 ton - rusting away 52 Chevy 3100 - in progress 72 Chevy K20 - DD
PANTS UP DON'T LOOT! PANTS UP DON'T LOOT!
NEVER watch another man eat a banana.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 Gas Pumper | | Gas Pumper Joined: Dec 2000 Posts: 3,399 | If you are stuck on PPG products like me, mainly because my friendly local paint supplier is exclusive to PPG, the DPLF is a non sanding product. Due to my inexperience, I have sanded it anyway. Problem is, its not a very nice product to use with sandpaper. Much easier to just use K36 Urethane high build over the top. The K36 is very sanding friendly and comes out very smooth. If you have lots of rust pitting in your project, the high build will correct that if you do it right. No experience at all with SPI. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2009 Posts: 292 | I think im going to use the spi black epoxy 6620.
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