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#981637 10/26/2013 8:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
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J
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i am about to start painting my truck and need information on what type of paint and primer to use. this is not a show truck by any means more like a restomode rat without the rust.just want it to look decent and dont have the resources for a high dollar paint job. im going to use a hf paint gun and do it myself.

Thanks
John

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G
'Bolter
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I would go to all of your local auto paint stores and ask them. go with the one your most comfortable with. Epoxy primer for sure.




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1937 Chevy 1/2 ton panel
1953 GMC 2 ton. future car hauler

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J
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thanks goneagain.any brand names i should look for on paint and primer.


Last edited by johns truck; 10/26/2013 9:14 PM.
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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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John, you want to go with basecoat clearcoat or the single stage?.. and don't forget, a lot of shops use/have the store brand or "shop line".


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I would look into SPI (southern polyurethanes). They sell primers and clears, and a select few colors (white, black, red) in both single stage and base/clear. Very popular on the hot rod/resto circuit, economical, high quality, and made in the USA!

I plan to use their products for my truck when I get to that point.

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

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J
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Thanks guys!

Joined: Apr 2013
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Ditto on the SPI but get their black epoxy primer...EXCELLENT rat rod finish look and hard as nails - no top coat needed. For primer I use a $10 HF purple gun and it lays down very well. No reducer is needed though that will extend your dry times.


36 Chevy 1.5 ton - rusting away
52 Chevy 3100 - in progress
72 Chevy K20 - DD

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J
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how much primer do you think it will take to paint a 51 1/2 ton.i want to epoxy the whole truck then use high build primer then epoxy over that. then base clear coat it.

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C
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You could figure 7oz per coat per panel and be close.


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D
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I cant answer that since the most I have done so far is the frame and front and rear-end. The frame took 36 oz (two 18 oz cups). The rear end was about 12 oz and the front including many small parts was another 18 oz. So considering the mass of inside/outside cab, door, fenders, hood, etc, etc. I would start out with a gallon of DPLF40 (PPG) and 401 or 402 catalyst. If you purchase locally, you can always go running back to the store for more if you run out. Caso knows better than me.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
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John... Think about skipping buying the high build and just using epoxy all the way to sealer.
3 coats of SPI epoxy = 2 coats of 2K high build more or less.

I like my first coat over metal to be white then I switch to black or grey so as I'm sanding I always know to stop when I hit white...


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5
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Hey John - not sure what product you intend on using but if you choose the SPI epoxy primer it is a high build product. They do offer a true hi-build but the owner of the company generally does not push it as he feels that their 1:1 epoxy builds well enough. I agree - and this would save you cashage on your paint bill.

Good Luck
Scott


36 Chevy 1.5 ton - rusting away
52 Chevy 3100 - in progress
72 Chevy K20 - DD

PANTS UP DON'T LOOT! PANTS UP DON'T LOOT!

NEVER watch another man eat a banana.
Joined: Dec 2000
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D
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If you are stuck on PPG products like me, mainly because my friendly local paint supplier is exclusive to PPG, the DPLF is a non sanding product. Due to my inexperience, I have sanded it anyway. Problem is, its not a very nice product to use with sandpaper. Much easier to just use K36 Urethane high build over the top. The K36 is very sanding friendly and comes out very smooth. If you have lots of rust pitting in your project, the high build will correct that if you do it right. No experience at all with SPI.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
1950 Chevy 3100 Standard Cab
In the Stovebolt Gallery
The Think Tank
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Joined: Dec 2009
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J
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I think im going to use the spi black epoxy 6620.


Moderated by  klhansen 

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