The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop rear window lock bead

I am putting the rear window in my 53 3100
and I am having problems with the lock bead.
My rubber came from Classic Parts I am not sure if that is the problem or not. I struggled putting the window in and it seamed like a tight fit. While useing the lock bead tool I got about a foot of it in and my rubber looks like I used an axe to put it in. so I pulled it back out and hope my rubber will smooth back up.I had it lubed up good it just seems like the grove is too thght.I did a search and did not come up with much help. I could use some advice on getting the lock bead in.
Thanks Jim

What does the lock bead tool are you using to put it in look like? I used a plastic "spoon" meant for installing window rubbers, and didn't have a single nick on my rubber. Is the rubber in the right way? On mine the window side channel is wider than the sheetmetal side. That's all I can think of. I didn't even need to put soapy water on mine lock bead.

The tool I got from Classic parts it is metal and tear drop shape and it looks like the lock bead fits through the hole in it.The glass is in the wide grove in the rubber. I read about the glass almost falling in when it was being installed for some I did not have this kind of luck.I just ordered a new rear window rubber because I don't think I will be happy with what i have now. That tool beat it up and I don't see it getting any better.Should I be looking for a new tool?From what I read some are useing a paint can opener that does nothing in my case. The grove where the lock bead goes is tight other than the foot or so where I already had it in.I have a lot of patience but this is pushing it. I am close to having a blister in my hand from this tool and if I slip and gouge my paint that is sure to push me over the edge.

...just got to ask this question. You trying to push, or pull the tool along the lock bead groove? Had to ask!!

I had the most success pushing it. My problem very well could be and probably is Operator error. I have not been able to get a clear understanding
Of how to use this. I can get it in their but if the rubber is all beat up
I am wasteing my time.

Jim,the tool doesn't care if you push or pull,but it does matter which way the loop is,i'm not sure if this will help in any way but here's a link to a set of pics I did.
Rear window install,Chevy AD truck. Good luck.

I took the window back out because I have new rubber
comming. I think I will try to find a tool like you were useing it looks like it would do a better job.after seeing your pictures I could make a better tool than the one I bought.
Thanks

The tool I used was plastic. I wouldn't use a metal tool doing something like this. My groove for the lock bead was tight as well but I slowly got it, and inch or less at a time.

Jim if you get really stuck,shoot me a private message with your address and i'll 'stick' one in the post to you,shouldn't cost a bunch even from waaay over here!

Hey Jim, I tried to put the rear glass in my '53 useing the same tool you were trying to use with the same result. I then ordered the same orange plastic stick/tool Jockbolter used and it worked great. It took me a while but I got it done.

When you cut your window rubber, remember to cut it long. I cut mine almost 1 1/2 inches too long, then forced it to fit. The rubber will shrink over time.

Also, I put the seam in the window rubber at the bottom of the window, and the seam in the lock bead at the top. I figured that this made for a tighter seam in both and less chance for leaks.

I used a plastic 1" wide putty knife and liquid soap. That was what worked best for me. I used the chrome lock strip which was harder then the plain rubber.

John, what's your take on the location of the seams
for that rear window?
My original rubber and lock have so many cracks in
them it's hard to tell where they put them from
the factory.
Denny G

Denny, it would appear in the factory assembly manual that the seam for the rubber gets butted at the top of the glass and the lock bead at the bottom if I am reading it correct. sect 1 sheet 9.00 is where I am looking at that if you have the book.

The location of the butt joints as Eric states above is consistent with how they suggest the corner windows are done so I imagine it is the same. Section 0, Sheet 6.00

standard procedure for the pros is to have the 2 seams opposite, or at the least well offset, it shouldn't really matter top or bottom if you've cut the rubber to butt up tight

Bill

Yes Bill, that's true, but how did it come from the factory is
the question. Ya know, I'd like to be 95% correct,
the 5% belongs where you can't see it.

Thanks Peter and Eric, I'll check it out in the FAM, dint think
of looking there, duh.

Denny G

For originality purposes the rubber seam on top and lock strip seam on bottom is probably fine. For anyone not concerned about originality I would (and did) put the rubber seam at the bottom and the lock bead seam at the top, to reduce the possibility or water getting in the cab through the rubber seam.

It helps to leave the rubber in the sun for a while to warm it up and become more pliable.

Denny,if your question is/was directed at me,I'm with the other guys (and Factory Manual)
I always place the join at the top of the aperature and as twotone mentioned cut the rubber long and cram it as it will definately shrink over time.
As you know water will find its own level and will settle at the lowest point in the rubber. If there's a join there that's not entirely secure,inevitably it will leak.
Just my 2cents...

Yep, was you I were addressing John. If you think
about it, the rubber joint at the bottom would be the
most logical place. Cuz if it does leak it would
drain out of the rubber with the seam at the bottom
rather than getting trapped. Something like a bucket
right side up or upside down.

But, it looks like the boys nailed it down. It's quite
clearly documented in the FAM as Eric and Peter noted,
that GM went against logic and turned the bucket with
the hole facing up.

Thanks guys
Denny G

Denny you are about it being illogical.
I put mine in the wrong side down the first time when trying to use some off shore replacement rubber.
When it just wouldn't go I decided to get Steele Rubber and read the manual. That's the only way I discovered their rather counter intuitive installation directions.

Denny,bear in mind the rear cab window rubbers are of an 'H' section,surely any water gathering and leaking or draining to the outside would equally leak/drain to the inside,at least that's my take on it....