The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Lowering Blocks

Been awhile, but seems like I've seen a post about rear lowering blocks, that also moved the axle back 1 1/2". I want to lower my 53 3100 a little more. I've fabricated my own 2" blocks and flipped the springs, but I would like to go down another 1". So I'm after 3" blocks that will center the rear axle. So anybody know where they can be purchased? Thanks, Phil
I went ahead and "restacked" the rear leaf springs. Already had taken two from bottom and put on top. Yesterday took two more from the bottom and put them on top. Still have 5 leafs handling the load and it did soften the ride. I like the new lower look!

off road 4 wheel drive shops should have them? I think they call them lift kits or lifting blocks or something like that? They are the same thing as lowering blocks I may have a set, but no U bolts? You can make U bolts easy out of all thread rods.

Go to a suspension shop and have U-bolts made. I'd hate to see someone rely on all-thread for U-bolts.

You can readily buy longer u-bolts at parts stores or off-road or hot-rod shops. The axle relocation thing is something you can get from Speedway Motors (check their website) or hotrod shops. Keep in mind that this may mess with your driveshaft length, depending on how much space you have on your yoke.

Yakimabowtie I have a 49 suburban with original leafs.i want to "soften" the ride. Can you explain restackind process as I haven't heard of it before. If you any picture that would be great. Thanks

First off, I've converted to open drive shaft. So the axle housing now sits over the springs, not under. I've removed the bottom "short" leafs and stacked them on top of the main leaf, which increases the space between axle and main leaf. Don't have a picture, sold truck yesterday. But with fewer leafs the spring will flex more, thus softening the ride. I had considered purchasing a new "lowering" leaf spring, or having them re-arched, in order to lower it. Another spring fix is placing liners between each leaf.

I used lowering blocks purchased at Advance Auto parts. They come with U-bolts and if the bolts are not long enough you can get a set made at a springs shop. I drove over to Spring Alignment in Greenville, S.C. and they bent me 4 of them in less than 15 minutes...already threaded and got some new "tall nuts" for the u-bolts.

49bourbon, I believer I just read where a fellow did the same thing....moved short leafs to the top, and offered pictures to anyone wanting them.

EDIT: Chev4t6 posted it here. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...lat&Number=957270&gonew=1#UNREAD

I'm running open driveline to and used a set of perch blocks from Dodge Dealer to weld to the axle housing. The blocks have holes where you can move forward..or backward, about an inch and half either way.
hope this helps someone.

I hated the fact that the blocks one could purchase were either cheesy cast aluminum and/or entirely too short to look stable. Or both. So I visited a couple of scrap metal dealers until I found some aluminum bar stock.

A couple of minutes with a a sawzall and a grinder and I had blocks that fit my new spring pads and had the set-back to center my axle in the wheel wells - for $25.