The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk New Project with my son... '53

Hello Stovebolters...

My son and I are embarking on the time honored tradition of creating memories building a truck together. We have a '53 chevy 5 window with a 216 in it that we plan to restore.

This is our first project together so looking for some good tips on what to tackle first...

Background: '53 was purchased by my father-in-law about 20 years ago... Truck still runs with a 216 in it... still 6 volt system ... pretty much stock with 3 on the tree, etc.

My son would like to keep it stock looking as much as possible... not into the hot rod look. He would like to make this a daily driver so keep that in consideration...

In the end, I would assume the following would need to be addressed:

[list]
[*]Engine - want to keep it a 6 cyl but would like some HP to make it fun to drive... upgrade to 235 or 250?
[*]Brakes - best recommendation to upgrade the brakes, disc/drum, power booster, firewall mount, etc.
[*]Electrical - keep it 6 or upgrade to 12? upgrade engine to 12 but keep gauges 6V?
[*]suspension/steering - anything to make this tighter to steer and drivable?

My son's money tree has not sprouted yet so budget is definitely a consideration... Hopefully this will keep us busy for some time with great memories to boot.

I look forward to reading the advice and sharing our progress with the group!

Proud to be new Stovebolters!

Welcome to the Bolt. Lots of good guys and good info. to be had around here !

Welcome, Nice to see you two tackling it together. Needing help just ask & someone will be there for you. Enjoy

Are you going to tear it completely down and do it, or are you going to drive it and fix it as you go? Since you're on a budget I'm assuming the latter?

If the 216 and 6 volt are working OK, I'd drive it till it goes, then replace it. I think a 235 is a common swap. You can decide at that time whether to keep the 6 volt system. They work fine if properly maintained. Otherwise a 12 volt conversion is not that difficult.

Good luck with your project and keep us posted.

A 235 and 261(same looking block and mounts) will bolt in, good idea to run 'til it dies, while looking for full oiler. 230-250-292 are 3+- inches longer, not as easy to fit. If you do the original brakes, king pin bushings, tighten up the steering, etc, will learn a lot, not cost much, be much easier to drive. Several disk brake conversions out there, can save for later. Power booster doesn't make it stop any better, just easier to push on pedal.

I would start with a compression check and see what you have engine wise. If all is good use the off the shelf top cleaneers and engine flush. Do a tune up, clean the carb and check for oil leaks to seal up. Pull the wheels, check the running gear and possibly clean the gas tank.

If the truck runs now, check it out as suggested and drive on. You will probably end up breaking the weak links and fixing them first.

The world needs more projects like what you and your son are embarking on. Way to go.
Welcome to the Stovebolt. Good advice already given. With it currently running you have time to make a wish list as well as a "to do" list.
We're here to help. Visit us often and stay tuned in.

Thanks for the advice.

Our 216 is running on 4 cylinders...burning oil on #4 and #6. Cranks on first try though. Brakes will not stay bled so must have a leak somewhere. Steering box is loose but tie rod ends not bad. Walks all over the road...any advice on rebuilding the steering box? Starter is going bad as it takes a newly charged battery to turn over.

Found a 235 out of a 62 sedan for $200 on Craigslist that we may look at...any advice there?

It has been said on here to get it to steer and stop, then make it go and look nice. Parts for the original brake system are easily obtained and not having a mix of parts keeps future maintenance a lot less confusing. I would scare up a manual and adjust the steering box. You can take a lot of play out of them in just a few minutes. As to the engine, check to see if the oil is coming from the valve guides. If that's the case, the repair can be fairly inexpensive and you will have the original engine (a nice bragging point in this age of engine swaps and "updates") My '46 2-ton is running the original engine and the more I drive it, the better it performs. Maybe I'm getting used to it, maybe it is getting the "cobwebs" blown out. Most of all, have fun with it.

Also, before tearing into your starter, check your battery cables. A 6 volt system needs good heavy cables (0 or 00 gauge) and good clean connections. The skinny 12 volt cables from Wal Mart won't cut it.

Hey there,
My son and I are working on a 1954 5 window, I have found lots of help and advice here on Stovebolt.
I have a '61 Impala 235 in my truck, previous owner did. I have seen some recent posts with the '62 235 having different motor mounts. You may want to check that.
My son wants to stay stock also, but I want to add duel carbs and duel exhaust.
Good luck and have fun.

Hey! Son here. We are in the process of purchasing a 235 (original) out of a 54(I think!). Anyway, it is completely rebuilt and we are excited for it! We have a small website here: 1953 Truck that is usually updated weekly. I plan to add links to our forum posts and helpful resources!

Ol Blue ? That's what the kids call my old 37.

Thanks for keeping us posted.

Sounds like it's time to rebuild the M/C

Good luck on the project. Our '53 started out as a father & project. Now all my boys are involved from time to time helping.

I see your truck either has GMC park/turn lights, or someone has installed GMC lights in the Chevy fenders. It's interesting when little things like that start to suggest the history of a truck. As you move forward with the restoration, you move backward in time, in a sense. Good looking truck

Nice photographs of the '53 - artistic and informative.

Take Ted's advice on adjusting the steering. A 0-10lb fish scale comes in handy (K-Mart or Walmart might have one). The procedure looks more difficult than it really is (after you get the steering arm disconnected). As Ted pointed out, this might solve your steering sloppiness (as long as all other front end parts are tight).