The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Clutch head screws/bolts replacement

Do they make new screws/bolts that have the clutch head on them? Or do most people just replace them with a new type of screw/bolt...thanks!

yes they do make reproduction screws/bolts, but i would go with new flathead screws/bolts



Indy

I think that Indy is referring to replacing the superior (but hard to find) clutch-head screws/bolts with more readily available slotted head bolts/screws.

If you are interested in sources for clutch-head screws/bolts, one of us will post a link to an informative post by Lonnie C (I think).

I believe that this the post that Tim means ...
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=859584#Post859584

- Lonnie

There used to be one or two pages of GM clutch head hardware in this Restoration Specialties Inc. Catalog (a large PDF file download).

Oldgreen51,
I kind of like the clutch head screws and bolts, after completely disassembling and reassembling an entire truck ('50 COE). I much prefer them over slotted or phillips heads. To work with these fasteners you need the proper drivers or bits and before you attempt to mess with an old clutch head fastener, you need to clean out the hole. The sides of the hour-glass shaped hole are straight, so to get the driver in there all the way, you need to clean it out with a sharp awl or other tool. Get all that rust, grease and dirt out first. If done properly, you will either remove the fastener or snap the head off the fastener, before it slips out. What more could you ask?

If originality is not important then use whatever is handy. I would go with a torx, square hole or other straight sided fastener before I would use a slotted head screw or bolt. I was trying to retain an original appearance to my truck so I bead blasted and reused all the fasteners that were not damaged upon removal.

Sometimes the hole was already buggered up by someone else and the driver would turn in the hole. The metal would be lifted up around the hole, and occassionly I could save a fastener by using a hardened punch to tap and flatten the metal back down into place. This would be enough so that the driver would have something to grab onto and turn. This worked on applications where alot of torque was not required. If damaged alot it is best to find a replacement screw or bolt.
Kent

Dad;

Very interesting tips on removing clutch head screws. I have come to hate those things because they always end up stripping on me. I've never tried to clean up the hole though. I may have to rethink my position on the clutch head.

Do you have a recommendation on a source for a driver for them? The only ones I could find were in a cheap multi-bit set I picked up at HF. Having the right tool probably makes a big difference too.

I THINK NAPA used to carry the drivers for them.

Snap on has clutch head sockets

We have a firm rule - clutch heads are only turned one way - counterclockwise......

For me, I have a thing for clutch head screws! I don't care if they might be inferior or a pain sometimes. They are unique and iconic to these old vehicles. I am always looking for places to use them where they don't belong, like inner fender-to-fender, bed front-to-bedsides, top radiator pan. They're just TOO COOL! My early 49 AD has them to hold on the VIN plate. They are real small and possibly original, as the screws are much smaller than the holes for the rivets that I'm used to seeing used to attach VIN plates.

There is nothing inferior about clutch-head screws. They have superior torque/grab characteristics over slotted-head and Phillips-head screws.

People either do not have the correct drivers, or they have the mistaken notion that removing rusted clutch-head screws is more difficult than removing rusted slotted/Phillips screws. Removing any rusted screw is difficult.

Carl, you might be interested in this Jim Carter article on clutch head screws on ID plates through 1950.

Where to get the screws?

McMaster Carr or Fastenal have them but make sure you order the right kind. There are 2 types of Clutch head screws...

I actually looked on McMaster and couldn't find anything. This surprised me, as they have EVERYTHING! I found the bits, but no screws. If they're there I missed them somehow.

As Grigg pointed out a while ago, McMaster-Carr has the bits at reasonable prices.

I do not see clutch-head bolts/screws (either type) in the McMaster-Carr or Fastenal catalogs. Maybe CASO will tell us how to search for them?

Truckolet,
- Did you look at the sources at the link that Lonnie posted, above?
- Did you check out the Restoration Specialties catalog? Page 182?

I guess I was thinking bits... so I did a glook up and heres a few Clutch head screws :search

It takes many years of carefully removing the original clutch head hardware to come up with enough extras to get you through an original restoration.

http://img.claspics.com/w8cp5hb/hhuvt3pj/1371063541-830.JPG_m.jpg?1371063546

since we are talking about these boogers, how in the world do you get one out that has been stripped?


Indy

You'd used the same techniques that would be used with any rusted hardware. Here are some suggestions. A variety of carefully chosen words are often useful (but probably do not help much).

If it has a head on it you can usually clamp a pair of vice grips on it to get it off.

If it has a countersunk head and it is flush with the surface it is stuck to, drilling it out is the only option.

thanks guys, i didn't even think of those options

If available,I found tacking a nut to them worked great and also they tend to fill up with paint and 'strip' out but if they are blasted some they will clean up... I just grind off the tack and clean it up with the die grinder.
I find I like them where a serious torque is desired. anti-seize is your friend...

I phoned McMaster regarding the clutch heads some time ago because I could not find them anywhere on their website.
After a long discussion with them it was concluded that they do not supply them any more so scratch them off your list as far as clutch heads go.

tclederman,
I want to clarify that I agree with you about the superior qualities of clutch head screws. I was merely restating another person's opinion of them when I used the term "inferior". (I guess I should have used the quote marks in my original post.) Thanks for the link about the clutch head screws holding the ID plates on. By the way, the same 1949 truck has the same clutch head screws with hexagon perimeter holding the two filler plates at the top of the inner fenders under the hood.

Other than heat I cut a slot in the head and used astraight blade screw driver to remove the tuff ones. The old chevy parts suppliers stock clutch head screws. I install them with antisieze.