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so i finally got my truck. 1948 loadmaster with a title. she has been modified with alot of little things which makes more bull crap for me to iron out. what i know as of now is the motor is a 1961 398 pontiac ventura 4 speed trans 2 barrel carb 7.50 x 20 wheels dump bed that works. been trying to work out some minor bugs. did a tune up and carb rebuild got her "running" difficult to start and has one hell of an exhaust leak. some switches and buttons added all over the place which creates more problems for me. i really want to know what is stock and what is not. the hamb was not to helpful. i love the dump bed and plan on keeping that but i also want a tow hitch. shes a work truck and will be used as such. any and all info comments anyone here in colorado springs wanna come by [hint hint]. thanks in advance.

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Looks like a typical farm truck that someone modified. The only thing stock on the instrument panel is the two large round gauges. Everything else has been added. Looks like they did a decent job of putting in the Pontiac motor. They probably used a 55-59 GMC clutch housing to make it work. In your first post you asked about changing the hoist. It is a grain truck, not a dump truck to haul dirt with. It was built to where the tail almost hit the pit and the dump angle for grain does not need to be near as steep as for dirt. If you want to haul dirt, you need to get a dump bed instead of a grain bed or just whack off the back of the bed even with the frame. Looks like a lot of improvising from installing a V8 to switching to 12 volt to using barrels for saddle tanks, adding a tach, using a radio out of another vehicle. The PTO and grain box could have been dealer installed.

Would you keep any of the not stock stuff or try to get the original stuff to work.

Lucky, don't look as if they cut the original dash up much adding the extra gages.

I would be VERY concerned about having those two barrels strapped onto the side of the frame. They appear to be used for fuel. WOW. It wouldn't pass an inspection anywhere that requires it and I doubt you'd even get thru a weigh station with that hanging on there. Otherwise it looks to be a good find.

Good point,53M.P.! Safety 1st! Back in the day,those barrels were installed by farmers,who had a long way to go between the farm,and the elevator. Way less traffic back in those days,too. If you (Heaven Forbid)were T-boned in an accident,you'd go up like a "Roman Candle",with little chance of escaping the inferno! They may be functional,and look "Cool",but they're definitely dangerous. I wish I had your "box". Mine's only 13',and I'll have to fabricate a set of removable ramps/beaver-tail,in order to use my truck as a vehicle transport. Your truck looks like it's in nice shape. Welcome to the "Bolt",and THANKS for the pic's!

more pics. my bed is 12'mine is going to be a car hauler trailer hauler the whole 10 yards. becomes fun trying to use a grain truck for an all purpose because of the axle location. cant wait to drive her. having a bunch of tiny issues but making progress



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That would be entirely up to you. Are you a stickler for originality, or do you just want some functional gauges, etc. that work?
There are no wrong answers here. It's your truck, and you can take it to whatever level you're happy with. (Or whatever level your checkbook is happy with!)

Not really a stickler for originality but I would like to keep it deceivingly stock

I don't know why everyone has such a problem with the barrels even if they are used for fuel. If they the seams are all welded up properly they would be little different than any saddle tank. I don't think a manufactured saddle tank would do any better if it were hit by another vehicle. What about them wouldn't pass inspection?

If you don't have a safety catch on the bed I would make sure to put one on it....you should never go under the bed when it's raised without it being supported. It can come down and squish you faster than you can move out of the way if something goes wrong.

As to getting the stock gauges working....If they are 6volt they would take more effort, I would at the very least remount the new gauges so they look a little better....they are just kinda slapped in there and look sloppy. With me, originality has a slight lead over modifying, but if the modifications are done well and for a good reason I have no problem with them.

Good luck working out the bugs. Before doing any major mods I would try to get everything working as is though.

Tad

I agree with Jungerfrosch's comments on barrels. They are not legal for a commercial vehicle because fuel tanks on commercial vehicles have to have 5% air capacity, but the barrels of that day were of thicker gauge metal than the side mounted tanks of today. And this is an antique, not a commercial vehicle One of the barrels ins probably a hydraulic tank anyway. I read comments from people who want a so called "bomb" behind or under the seat. The next guy doesn't want it frame mounted like factory still does and puts it inside the frame where it is vulnerable to exhaust sparks. Sparks is what ignites gasoline. Impact explodes cars in the movies.

Crenwelge - No one would need a 30 gallon hydraulic tank on a farmbed hoist and your assuming that the barrels are as old as the truck. We don't know that and the rods holding them are as poor as anything I've ever seen in this application. Get them off of there. And they ruin the looks of the truck. Just are not safe and that's the whole point.

Just looked again..the hoist is a twin arm UB and doesn't use a reservoir.

I can't figure out the reason for 3 fuel tanks. The original is still on the passenger side. The drums are the sealed ones with a screw on cap. They put a 90 and a cap on it. I wanna day its a little smaller than a 55 but what is the point in two of them. Like I said I have a feeling the little stuff is gonna kill me. Hopefully I'll be driving around this weekend. She starts difficult too so I need to get her running well before I can really know what works.
Can you convert 6v gauges to 12v. I be that's why they swapped in extras. They are worm geared on so pretty easy to remove. They look at the same era if not the same car as the motor.

Modifications of this sort are usually done for one of three reasons:
1. Owner may not be aware that the proper replacement parts are available.
2. Owner may not be concerned about originality.
3. Cost. These old farm trucks are only used for a few weeks a year, mostly during harvest. The primary goal is to keep it running when it is needed, without sticking a lot into it. So if a gauge quits working, find one someplace and stick it in there. If you need a saddle tank, rig up a barrel. Not the ideal solution, but that's how it was done. It didn't matter what it looked like as long as it worked.

My own truck is an example of this. It also was a farm truck. The engine blew up. The guy's son in law had this V8 lying in his garage. His buddy had a welder and a torch. Viola! They were back in the field hauling corn! It ain't pretty, but it works.

In my opinion,those barrel tanks are dangerous! They were not designed for transporting fuel,especially in such a precarious location. GAS TANKS WILL IGNITE ON IMPACT! I survived a crash,in '83,so I have 1st-hand experience in this! Trust me!! With ALL due respect,Crenwelge,I lost my brakes on one of the busiest highways in Chicago. right front bumper hit left rear of a '77 Ferd station-wagon,pushing the bumper,(and the gas-tank),almost into the rear seat! all I could do was back the truck out of the inferno,since the flames were spreading fast! I pulled the driver of the "wagon' out,just as the front-seat ignited! They had to close O'Hare for a short time,since it took 3 "foam" pumpers,to put it out! In all,9 cars were burnt-up!! Ironic thing was that I had 4 pallets of "Better brakes",as part of my load! Never drove that truck after that! mechanics checked it over,and couldn't find anything wrong. Two- months later,it happened again! Luckily,a mechanic was testing it,and when the pedal hit the floor,(45 M.P.H.,60 feet from retaining wall at the end of lot).He jammed reverse,(floored footfeed),and took-out chunks of asphalt,5" deep,and the width of the "duals",every time it wheel-hopped. Missed the retaining wall by 5"!! Then the company decided to sell the truck.(NOT G.M. PRODUCT!)

ken you watch too much tv.


that sort of resembles my hoist, my hoist is a galion. on the side of the frame should be a tag identifing the hoist.

what kind of car? it can be done but from what i can see you have a lot of work to do before you can start driving that around safely let alone trailering anything.

I think you guys missed my whole point. I'm not advocating keeping the barrels. My point is that the 55 gallon drums of the 50's were of much heavier gauge steel than side mount tanks that were installed by the factory at the time of the manufacture of this vehicle and thinner gauge side mounted tanks are still used on modern vehicles with side mounted tanks. The tanks are probably rusty inside anyway and there is no need for that much fuel capacity. It is all just speculation as to what the purpose of the barrels was. I hauled a lot of grain from elevator legs during the 60's and 70's. A lot of custom combiners carried extra fuel as well as oil for their combines with drums mounted in this fashion.

Mike and Willy, if you read through the expert testimony of the explosions of the GM pickups and the Pintos, it was not the impact that caused the explosions. The tanks ruptured and the cat converters ignited the gasoline. We sold gasoline in drums into the 70's. We dropped them, smashed them and no telling what else. As long as there was no spark, or something hot like a cat converter, all we did was waste some 20¢ gas. Now we have to report a spill of 25 gallons or more. In 1970 I turned over a tanker with 8,000 gallons of gas that ran down the ditch. Luckily there was no spark.

I think you guys missed my whole point. I'm not advocating keeping the barrels. My point is that the 55 gallon drums of the 50's were of much heavier gauge steel than side mount tanks that were installed by the factory at the time of the manufacture of this vehicle and thinner gauge side mounted tanks are still used on modern vehicles with side mounted tanks. The tanks are probably rusty inside anyway and there is no need for that much fuel capacity. It is all just speculation as to what the purpose of the barrels was. I hauled a lot of grain from elevator legs during the 60's and 70's. A lot of custom combiners carried extra fuel as well as oil for their combines with drums mounted in this fashion.

Mike and Willy, if you read through the expert testimony of the explosions of the GM pickups and the Pintos, it was not the impact that caused the explosions. The tanks ruptured and the cat converters ignited the gasoline. We sold gasoline in drums into the 70's. We dropped them, smashed them and no telling what else. As long as there was no spark, or something hot like a cat converter, all we did was waste some 20¢ gas. Now we have to report a spill of 25 gallons or more. In 1970 I turned over a tanker with 8,000 gallons of gas that ran down the ditch. Luckily there was no spark.

I have what I think is a factory side-mount tank on my 54/55 2-ton GMC flatbed truck. Here is poor photo. The truck had a WA state inspection sticker.

Tim, I doubt that it is factory. The factory tanks were usually rectangular. The one you show is what a dealer would have installed on a truck to rig it as a truck tractor. The one you have is a lot thicker than the side mounted tanks that came from the factory on a cab and chassis or bob tail. Back then the ICC promulgated the few safety regulations we had. These tanks were thicker metal because truck tractors were so vulnerable to jack knifing and when they did, the landing gear would crush the tank. And they were not protected by the truck body.The regulations after 1973 incorporated some of the ICC language that was law before 1973. These are the current regulations. The tank that you show could very well be a Snyder tank that a dealer would have installed on a tractor, but a customer may have requested it on a bobtail.

Thanks, for the information, Kenneth.

I'll check the tank tomorrow for any ID information.

I'll only use that tank if I do not need the under-bed side-space for ramps storage. If I cannot used that side tank, I'll look for a fuel tank to go between the frame rails (there are lots of options/configurations).

I'm guessing that the in-cab fuel tank will get me about 75 miles of travel - I'd like 150 miles between gas stops.

Sorry,Crenwelge. Didn't think about the cat converter. Glad your turn-over didn't ignite,Brother. you probably wouldn't be "truckin'" today,if it did. My mom tells about a gas tanker that jack-knifed,on a narrow,hilly section of highway,back in the '40's. The road was icy,and the hills were steep,and the curves were sharp. the semi jack-knifed,and the tank,(probably the frame-mounted type you mentioned),ruptured,at the same time the (gas) engine back-fired. They could hear that poor driver screaming from 5-miles away! It was a cold,still Winter night. That section of road was dis-colored,even when I was 10-12 years-old!('67-'69),until they widened it to 4-lane. Glad you're still with us!!

I have a k5 blazer rock crawler that I would like to put on the bed until I get a trailer. The bed is pretty rough so I don't wanna put my blazer on it yet. Still a lot of work for street ability but its slow going I have just shy of a 200 miles commute round trip so it takes a lot of time. Gonna get her going this weekend. Take some trips around the neighborhood. I don't wanna rebuild the bed a million times so I need to put a lot of thought into what I want/ best options.
All of the stories and knowledge is awesome thank you guys.

So last week I did another rebuild on the carb.(last one had the wrong gaskets) got her running a decent amount better. She idled by herself for 25 min maybe. She smokes like a freight train so I thing valve stem seals are in order. Went to drive her around my cul-de-sac lost the brakes again 3ft from where she moved. So I backed her back up and parked it. Need to find where the fluid is leaking from. I also have both headlights and one running light. Nothing else. So I pulled off a few of the light and need to test them. Probably still 6 volt. I imagine she's going to get a full rewire job in the near future. Working on cleanup pulling out the rotten mouse destroyed stuff. Hopefully I can get the lights and brakes soon.

so you got drive it somewhat for the second time and that's a good feeling. It's time now to go over the entire brake system before you do anything else. For what your intentions are a complete replacement is in order.
1. Get it to stop.
2. Get it to steer.
3. Get it to run.

spent about 2 hrs on my back this morning. started looking at the electrical and brakes got distracted started tinkering with the grease dirt clean up but i found goodish news. the only sign of wet from the master cylinder back was the passenger left side drum. i feel more comfortable having a little help working on these brake have someone push the pedal maybe see a leak, so i didn't pull the wheel off. i have no backflow valves or proportioning valves. All metal lines weird routing though. the bleeder or zerk whatever you want to call it is an odd one i havent seen so hopefully i can bleed them like normal brakes. i ripped out all electrical from the lights minus headlights so i may be rewiring sooner than expected. better sooner than later. i have a few rebuild kits for what i would assume is the wheel cylinder. still not sure on what lights i want to do. probably build a fuse box that replaces the glass style fuses. Anyone wanna come by and help.

The bleeder screws have a threaded plug in the center of them. Take the plug out and replace after you get all your brakes bleed. They keep the dirt out of the bleeder hole.

Pull the wheels and drums off to see what's going on. just because you don't have to have something visible to have something wrong with the system. It's gonna take more than rebuild kits to get it 100% as designed. Don't overlook the hydravac. when its leaking internally fluid disappears like magic. Where's that pretty blue smoke coming from. It could be brake fluid. Replace all three hoses while your at it.

not sure if i have hydrovac my master looks like the one on jim carter i believe.
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME139&i=|master%20cylinder|||47?i=|
could i just put a dual master off a 79 one ton chevy. i understand they usually bolt to the booster but is a booster really needed. the smoke is coming from the exhaust and an odd manifold pipe that runs down the back of the motor and just dumps off. not sure what is is.

My wheel cylinders,(front),were so corroded,that I couldn't hone them. I posted my dilemma here in the Forums, and a member responded, and had the cylinders I needed! I'm not sure if he has any rear brake parts,but you could try posting the parts you need in the "Swap Meet" thread. In the "Links" section,there's a member,(Bob Burgoyne,if memory serves me correctly).He's working on a 64-66 Chevy C-60 dump truck. He needed a hydrovac,and found a dealer for a re-build kit. He gives step-by-step instructions,as well as pictures and parts functions. A re-build is cheaper than buying a re-man,or ,(if you can find one), a new unit. Then you will have the pleasure and satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself! "The Electrical Shop" may be the "ticket",for ideas as far as up-grading your electrical system. The way this site operates,I don't think that you'l have any problems at all,finding what you need,and the help to "Git-R-Dun".(Larry The Cable Guy). Have fun with your truck,and don't get discouraged. A lot of truck,a lot of WORK! I have a friend that's installing a dual-reservoir M.C.,in his '58 Viking 60 bus. He got rid of the hydrovac,and the reservoir tank,already. He still needs to connect the brake and vac lines,and bled the system. Kit is designed for a 1/2-1-ton T.F. truck. I'm not sure if booster/m.c. is big enough,for the bus. Difference in M.C. bore,(comparing 1-ton to 2-ton,16,500# cap.) When "we" get the brakes bled,and road-tested,I'l let you know how well this up-grade works. Maybe make a video? "We're pullin' for ya!We're all in this together!"(Red Green)

trying to stay positive just dont have time. debating on trying to keep the old light but rewire them with good stuff. not sure on what i really want thinking of the cheap trailer lights so i can drive her. those will work for now. thank you for the encouragement.

according to this you did http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0529.htm
if it wasnt removed it should be mounted on the inside of the pass. side frame rail just on the other side of the three stacked road flares. behind the seat on the passenger side is where the breather is located for it.
maybe i wouldnt.



my 51 dump's tare wt is 7300 lbs. its gross is 16,000lbs just as yours is. i can move just under 4.5 tons of whatever legally. until you get your tare wt. established you dont know what you can haul weight wise. but let me tell you this. right after i did a complete brake job on the ASHTON (which weighs in 12,000 lbs with no water.)someone if front of me decided to make a left hand turn at the spur of the moment with no notice. i was able to lock up the truck because i had to lock up the truck. i was able to do it on the first press of the brake pedal not the second or third pump. i was making all kinds of hand jestures not to mention what was coming out of my mouth. i looked at my passenger and said boy am i glad i replaced the whole brake system with new stuff if i hadnt i would have slammed into the back of the car because i would have been too busy pumping the brakes to get it to stop beacuse i didnt restore the brake system as a system but only as a component

now back to your question, YES. your going to load it up wheather its on the back or on a trailer. if its on a trailer then your going to load up the bed to support what's on the trailer. when it comes to stopping your going to need all the help you can get.

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attempted pics of the master. i see no vacuum canister or anything for brakes. besides a can on the passenger side that has no lines or ports. the location is the driver side inner frame with a hole in the floor for the fill. kind of a side note is there a way to tell which style of split wheels i have without pulling off the tires?

mine says 11,000 gvw vin# 30kg1301
do i have a baby truck?
[/quote]my 51 dump's tare wt is 7300 lbs. its gross is 16,000lbs just as yours is. [/quote]
what is the reason for axle swap. is it just the ease of parts? grigg has a dana 70 hd i know that an eaton110 is stronger so.......

You have a lock-ring, at least on the front wheel pictured.(Easier to see on front wheels, inside duals). ring is about 1/4-inch thick,between the outer rim,and the inner wheel). I had my "New" 9:00X20:00's installed at a truck-tire shop,and these rims are safe. It's the Firestone rims that are called "Widow-Makers".The easiest way to identify the 2-piece Firestones,is the lack of a lock-ring. Grigg was so kind,as to post a warning about these rims in his "Wheels and Tires" thread. Good read! Buddy of mine bought a '51 6700 bus,and 2,(out of 6),were 3-piece,the other 2 he replaced,since they were "Widow-Makers". As far as the Hydro-vac,mine is located on the outer frame rail,directly under the passenger-side door,across from the master-cylinder. Yours may be located in a different position,since you have an older truck. Should still be located under the floor of the cab,or maybe,directly behind the cab. For the size of your truck,I would think that you would surely have a hydrovac unit installed. Maybe I'm wrong. Check the "Tech Tips",under "Brakes",to see a good description. Bob Burgoyne's thread is full of information. Hope this helps.

[/quote my 51 dump's tare wt is 7300 lbs. its gross is 16,000lbs just as yours is. [/quote]
i just assumed it was a 6400 based on your pics. so much for that i couldnt match your vin # here http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsmA3.htm
is that the info on the door tag? it also looks like the 4400 rated at 11000lbs or less didnt come with a hydravac. if it were mine id put one on. the next best thing i added to my 40 was a hydravac. i pull a camper with it and it makes braking easier. the link also should be everything you need to learn about and work on your truck.

im going with a 4400. what is the difference between 4400 and larger besides the rear end maybe brakes. a dodge 1 ton has a bigger gvw. i have a few ideas for the bed and bumper but i need to prioritize and finish these brakes. ill try to post some pics if i get bored or run out of light as usual.

scroll over to page 5-36 and see what size cylinders you have. pull some wheels and go from there.

So I attempted to tear apart the brakes. Key word on attempt. I didn't have that 6 post socket to pull the axle nuts off. So my ADD kicked in and I did other stuff. I hit the wheels with a wire wheel to take off the massive amounts of dirt and clay. Put the wheels back on. It wasn't a total waste because I learned stuff. The axle has some pretty severe scores I got pics and will upload tomorrow. The diff fluid was muddy chocolate milk color so I need to change that. Then I decided she was too far out in the yard so I went to start her and the fuel pump wasn't kicking on. So I guess I found some info. I need to figure out if the axle is toast or salvageable.

https://picasaweb.google.com/103651644171441676100/Charleotte#5887135153463984114
new pics of the attempted brake work with new discoveries.