The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop what oil for first start up?

Its a 1956 chevy 3100 235 truck engine that will be starting for the first time after rebuilding it. I have the assembly lube, zddp additive but unclear what oil to use during the 20-30 min break in period. Heres the motor specifics. Crankshaft -.010 x- .010. Block bored .030. with newthe matching pistons and rings. 261 stock cam, new oil pump, water pump, soild lifters, mini HEI distributor and timing gear set. The 848 Head rebuild with all new even with the no lead componets. For the break in i will use the original intake and 1 bbl carb then i will switch it two the Fenton set up intake with two 2 bbl Carter Weber progressive carbs and the Fenton split exhaust.

After the break in period is over what oil should i use and when should i change it again?

Thanks in advance

look at the cam breakin procedures by the cam manufacturers, it tells you what to use. The fact that you are asking tells me you haven't fully assimilated the information in those procedures. Man I'm tellin ya, read it and understand it.

My experience has been to use plenty of assembly lube then just use what ever oil you will be using on a regular basis. I know for some high dollar, tight clearance engines, they do use brake in oil, but I never have. I tend to just use 15W40 and change it often. After assembly, I would change it after about 500 miles then regular changes. If you don't drive it a lot, then change it on a calander basis.

Use any oil you like in a 10-30 or 10-40. No synthetic oil, straight weight will also work. 15-40 is to thick, you need it to really splash around for a good cam break-in, and diesel oil no longer has enough additive for a proper break in, it has been reduced down like all other oils.

ADD break-in supplement to what ever oil you choose, I like Comp Cams or GM EOS, both easy to get and work good. Comp Cams also makes a break-in oil with enough additive in each bottle. Brad Penn oil is very good also.

Run the engine for 20 minutes or so, KEEP IT COOL, over heating is really bad! Garden hose over radiator really helps. RPM is key to oil splash, no oil is pumped to the lifter / cam contact point, its all splash off the crank. With out rpm (1800 + ) oil will not coat the cam lobes and you risk premature wear or total break down. With heavy springs, a cam can be worn out in as little as a few revolutions of the engine. Have the fuel and timing close, do not slow rpm to adjust. If you must adjust, do it at high rpm or wait till you are done with break-in. REMEMBER, it's the first few minutes that are most important!

I run the break in oil for 400 or 500 miles with just a filter change and quart to top off the oil level. All the good stuff keeps working, and if you cleaned the engine before assembly, the oil will stay clean. If you want to change oil right away, use what ever brand you are happy with plus 1/2 quart additive with each oil change hear on out till you get tired of buying additive. I would say after 10,000 miles the cam will be fully broke in and with your weak valve spring pressure, additive will no longer be needed.
Spring pressure dictates how much and how long to use Zinc additives. Full race engines need it for ever, used everyday engines don't need any, and broke in engines only for a while.

my cam was purchased from patricks there was no instruction or cam break in procedures what i was told from patricks was to run the motor 2000 rpm for 20 mins and use the zddp. I have also called engine pro the manufacture and was told the same thing. The fact is there was no information in the cam box. THATS THE REASON I AM ASKING MAN. I was actually disappointed that there was nothing more formally written down or placed on their website. I GUESS IF THEIR WAS INFORMATION SUPPLIED WITH THE CAM I WOULD HAVE FULLY ASSIMILATED THE INFORMATION IN THE PROCEDURES.

Joe H and DMGfifty. Thanks for the info guys . Maybe i should have asked the Engine Pro what oil but when i talked to him on the phone he said it was important to get the lifters to spin and run it for 20-25 mins at 2000 rpm. The frame is going to the powder coater in about 2 weeks. When it gets back i will put the motor on the chassis with a fresh cleaned out and serviced radiator but i will also keep the garden hose around for back up.

In the patricks catalog it says to run valvoline vr-1 but it did not give a weight. I do not know if it comes in different weights. Thanks guys.

I'd run a lighter weight oil for break in. As long as your adding a bottle of additive with the extra zinc anything will be ok. The break in oil doesn't stay in that long. I would personally use some 5-30.
As an added note to initial start up is not to use starting fluid or dump raw gas into the carburetor. Doing that is a good way to wash the oil off the cylinder walls and also dilute the oil in the pan if to much gas gets dumped in.
Good Luck
Don

Oh sorry,I was just about out the door, and ran out of time. But all the major cam manufacturers have it on their websites. They aren't all in agreement whether it is OK to use multi weight or not, but they do all say a light oil, I used brad penn break in oil it was somewhat expensive, but not nearly as expensive as my engine. It is very important to get it started mostly immediately. After the 20 minute break-in they are all pretty much in agreement to change the oil. I changed mine after the 20 minute break-in and 500 miles later, cutting the oil filter open to check for signs of distress. The reason I was given from the tech fella at crane not to use synthetic for break in is (this is a semi-quote) "it doesn't provide enough traction to spin the lifters for a proper break-in" and from what I can gather is after 5000 miles you can use the synthetic, but here again look it up on one or two of the websites and make your own call. VR-1 does come in different weights, but I only found the heavier weights, Keep in mind that most "racing" oils if truly formulated for racing don't have much if any detergent in them as it messes with the film strength. VR-1 I believe has a significant amount, look up an article by some fella named vidman, I found it on vcca, it gives a lot of information. I am partial to 10w30. If you read that article along with one from a fella named bob olree, it gives you what weight oils work properly at what temp, but since I don't have a clue as to what temerature the oil gets to in these things. I can offer no scientific advice, however the two references I provided will be able to offer it in abundance. And if you have a little laser gun thermometer that you can read the temp at the oil pan I think that would provide you with that information, and if you do let us know what you have found out.

I have rebuilt several engines over the years,I helped with a late model race car as well.I have always used 10 - 30 when 1st starting the engine and run it at 2000 rpms for around 20 min.I never used a additive and use assembly lube when putting engine together.It has always worked for me,without problems.I don't use synthetic until after break in.It is to slick to let the engine break in.

Things change in our world and it pays, literally, to try and keep up on whats going on. What worked yesterday may not be such a good choice today.

....on additives I vote for the E.O.S. (engine oil supplement)

Use Joe Gibbs BR30 (10w30) break in oil with your ZDDP additive. Joe Gibbs has a high amount of zinc in it to help protect the cam. I got my cam from Patrick as well and he agreed with me that Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn is the way to go. I come from turbo'd cars where a high amount if zinc is necessary for the turbos I run. I always use Brad Penn, it's only a dollar or two more per quart and offers much more protection, plus its green so it's easier to find leaks.

VR-1 is a good oil, it has all you need for break in. Choose you weight and go.

Are totally confused yet?

Here is something elsel to read,

http://www.hotrodandrestoration.com..._source=Email&utm_medium=Enewsletter

Wow that article was great. I appreciate all the responces after reading everything it gives me a the info i need. I went to FLAPS and bought the VR1 as soon as i get my head back from the machine shop i will give it a try. To everyone thanks alot.

The machine shop misplaced my connecting rods but i had a spare from a 1960 235 at least you guys made my day.