The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors window felt

I need to replace the window felt in my 52 3100. How do you get the new felt int he channel? denis

Denisf, I put mine in and used some SMALL screws to hold it in place at the end and in the corner. So far so good......I'm sure others will share their experience.....

I used 3/8 x 4 ss screws as per achipmunk above.
They are so small you can hardly see them.
The PO used pop rivets but, of course it was impossible to remove when I had to take it out to work on it.

I also used pop rivets on my 52-3100 if you ever have to take them out you can just remove them with a die grinder and a small bit. I would buy them from The Car and Truck shop in Orange Cal.they have the good ones that are pre bent on the ends so they fit right.

Pete

Thanks everyone, I am having trouble getting them into the channel. I think I read this channel may have been crimped originally.

When I cleaned the window up the original remnants was only a strip of rubber in the channel.

You're talking about the outer rubber wipe just below the window edge on the outside of the glass thats inside the door thats not screwed or pop riveted in it's just installed in the channel.

I think people thought you were asking about the window wiskers.

Pete

If you're talking about the division bar, make sure the old piece is removed. I remember there being a finger at the bottom and maybe a rivet up higher? The old felt channel needs to be removed as the new one will be a snug fit and trying to install one over the old piece is impossible.

If you're talking about the other u shaped felt. The bottom is held in at the lower detachable bar. I don't glue or screw anything. I use the inner window trim to hold in the felt u channel. I shape the felt in to the door, install the glass, roll it all the way up to hold the felt in place, then install the inner window trim.

Denisf

Here is a longwinded answer to your short question. I received a lot of help from other 'Bolters to install fuzzies and rubber in the window openings of my '54.

There are five pieces to the window weather strip. I bought mine from the Truck Shop and I am pleased with the result.
> UPPER FELT RUN - fuzzy (part of kit shown in upper left corner of page)
> INNER WIPES - fuzzy (part of kit and also shown in second illustration, first column of page)
> OUTER WIPES - rubber (part of kit)
> VENT WINDOW SEALS - rubber two pieces (shown in upper left corner of page)
> ALSO ... RIVETS AND SETTING TOOL needed to reinstall the vent window frame and to attach the straight vent window seal to the division bar. (shown in second column of page)
> DIVISION BAR INSERTS - fuzzy (part of kit and also shown in third illustration, first column of page)

I believe that the UPPER FELT RUN was originally held by clips that screwed into the opening in the door. The felt run was pressed into the clips. Clips were included in the kit from The Truck Shop, but I didn't know what they were, so I attached the run to the window with Ace #6 X 1-5/8 Square Drive Trim Screws
> CLICK for more info
> CLICK for discussion about the clips

The INNER WIPES were originally attached to the interior garnish with staples. Staples are included in the kit from The Truck Shop. I used the staples. Some 'Bolters use screws or pop rivets, or trim adhesive. The Truck Shop may be the only supplier that sells the inner wipes with the correct bend on the end (?)
> CLICK for more info

The OUTER WIPES slide into a track in the door on the outer side of the window. I lubed the track with dishwashing soap.

The VENT WINDOW SEALS are in two pieces. The pivot rivet that holds the vent window to the frame must be drilled out and the window removed. Use rivets and a rivet setting tool to rivet the straight rubber piece to the division bar. I clamped a piece of aluminum plate into my vice and sat the plate into the channel of the division bar to back up the rivets as pounded them home. Pad the plate with a few layers of painters tape to avoid scratching the paint on the division bar. Do this before you install the division bar fuzzy insert. The curved rubber seal presses into place. A little dish washing liquid makes it easier. Finally reattach the vent window with a pivot rivet and setting tool. I used the same aluminum plate to back up the rivet.
> CLICK for more info

The DIVISION BAR INSERTS press into the division bar. A clip on the bottom of the bar secures the insert; friction does the rest.
> CLICK for more info
NOTE: The new forum software erases some posts that were written with word processing software then pasted into the post. You can read the blank post by clicking on the post, then click "Quick Quote". Click on "Preview Reply" at the bottom of the page to see the info in the blank post. I know that's it is screwy, but by doing so, you can read the blank posts by John Hill in this thread. There are some other blank posts in the links that showed. They can be read using the same process.

MORE SOURCES OF INFO
> CLICK for more sources of info on the entire process

On my doors the clip that holds the felt track onto the door is missing and my wrench says they are impossible to find. Is this the fix above...screwing them to the door ? Any way to find these clips or anyone make new ones ?

Have you looked Here ?
if you have the bandwidth you can download their .pdf catalog and find what your looking for... but then you'll have to find a distributor to order from.

They should of come in the kit with the felt.
My kit came with the staples, drill, and instructions.
Check the bottom of the box.

Thanks Dads ... I have not looked there yet. The felts are fine...just need the clips but replacing the whole thing is fine too. From what I've been reading on the various links it seem a lot of guys either use adhesive or tiny screws both of which make sense to me.

I just read that this morning and bookmarked the page...seem to be the best and easiest answer... thanks again.

Actually these tiny screws may not the best for a non vent window truck. In a vent window truck you have that division bar ? to fasten to but in a non vent window you'd have to fasten to the door frame which is too far away from the edge of the window. So I guess you either fab something up or buy a set of those bars even though there's no vent window ?

Edit: I see that those division bars are available but how/where are they attached ?

Sorry Dogface (if I may call you that)

I may have misunderstood your post.
Im discussing the felt that attaches to the inside window trim.
That is what Allan's tip is regarding.

....this piece...

my error and I appologize


is this the clip inside the door your referring to?
...pic...

I deleted the post above

Yes, that last one is the one that's missing I think. It's down inside the door and holds the felt channel which keeps the window on track. If it's just screwed to the front edge of the door then the window...being narrower...still falls out of the channel. Seems it needs either that clip..now missing...or a division bar as in vent window doors...to attach the felt channel to. Missing on both doors so I can't roll the window down w/o having it fall out of the track.

Of course you can call me Dogface That's my handle in many places...long story.

Is the clip existing on the other side (latch side)

...pic...

The channel the felt rides in is removable on the latch side.
As you can see it is not in the clip in my pic. I used an aftermarket felt and it was too short.

On the hindge side you might be able to attach a small tech screw in the area where the clip is missing inside the door. ...pic....

The window fallowing off the track sounds more like a regulator issue.

Go here: http://www.truckandcarshop.com/4759.html

Go to the catalog and look up page #49. On the middle, bottom of the page are the reproduction parts you are looking for.

Dogface -

Sounds like DADS50 identified the clip. If the clip that you need is at the end of the felt channel on the latch side, then the "Lower Rear Door Edge Glass Guide" that Mark linked to is the correct one for your '52 with vent windows. You can see in the Truck Shop picture where the Glass Guide is cut to create the clip. It is about half way down the Glass Guide. It looks like DADS50's 1950 without vent windows has a slightly different guide and clip than '51-'55.
> CLICK - Truck Shop Glass Guide

I bought a Glass Guide from the Truck Shop for my '54. The end of the felt just slips into the clip. The metal on the Truck Shop Guide may be a little thinner than the original. I stripped out the two holes in the Guide when I used oversize screws. Had to rig up a couple of speed nuts to correct the problem.

If you are talking about the clips that hold the window felt to the door window opening, then I haven't seen them sold separately. Only included in the complete kit sold by The Truck Shop. See my earlier post.

Dogface has a 49

Parts listed are for 51 and up.

OOPS

I was looking at the year of the original poster's truck. I just did a fast search of The Filling Station and The Truck Shop and didn't see a clip for 1949.

I think we'll have to fab up something to attach the felt to on the front/hinge side of the door to hold the felt...something like the division bar on vent window doors. Otherwise the felt, if attached to the door frame forward, will be too far forward to hold the window in place .

The glass guides shown and sold by the truck shop are reversible. I mean - the front drivers side works for the rear on the passenger side and the rear drivers side works for the front on the passenger side. This for the 47-50 doors without the vent window.

True...a 49 w/o vent window and division bar. Missing the channel on latch side too but we can use tiny sheet metal screws to attach that side. Guess we'll have to fab up some kinda part to screw fwd felt to. As it is now, I can roll the window down about half way w/o it falling out of the felt track. In the summer I'll want it more open.

Lonnie et al

I often find great information from you in the trails of topics over the years. I think I am generally about 5 years behind you in everything. The links you provided a few years ago have changed and I can't figure all my replacement parts out.

I got the full window replacement weather-stripping kit and can figure everything out except two rubber strips and some staples.

I think the staples are what others in this thread have abandoned and use small SS screws on the window channel lined with felt. The two rubber strips would be the outer window gasket at the bottom of the window, I think. The only thing that gives me pause is the profile of the rubber and the fact that they are slight curved at one end. The stock rubber strip, which you term "Outer Wipes", are cut square and do not turn up the window at all.

Do you have any photos of your before and after of this process?

Rubber strips and staples
Bag of 10 staples
Profile of rubber strip

Bob -

I'm glad that I checked out the latest action on Stovebolt today and that I saw your post. I don't hang out here as often as I used to. Spending too much time and money on my '55 MGTF-1500. (Denny warned me that lil Brit-cars are money-magnets!)

Links to parts in The Truck Shop catalog change each time the catalog is reprinted. See below for my revision of my original post with the new links to The Truck Shop, plus I included the part numbers so that the post will still be relavent when The Truck Shop changes their catalog. Send an email to me if you have questions.

Good luck with your windows.
- Lonnie
lonniecook [at] aol [dot] com

==========

ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS:

1) Staples - The staples hold the inner felt wipe to the inner garnish. Insert the staples through the holes in the inner garnish, then poke them through the gooie rubber and felt of the inner felt wipe. The holes in the garnish were made by the factory when they attached the original staples to the felt wipe. Bend the legs of the staples over into the fuzzy felt. They should be hidden below the fuzzies. The factory may have originally inserted the staples from the fuzzy side, then into the steel of the inner garnish. Impossible to do now. I explained my process in one of my posts - linked below. And yes, many people use pop rivets or screws to secure the inner wipe ... but the rivets or screws often show and don't look right to me. Of course you could dab some flat black paint onto them to hide. Make sure that the screws or rivets don't scrape against the window glass.

2) Rubber outer wipes - I dunno. Wonder if the wipes are for another model truck? I belive that mine are rounded on the edge that slips into the guides in the door, instead of "T" shaped like yours. And mine are straight instead of curved. Maybe someone else can shead some light.
<CLICK> for pics of '51-'54 Outer Rubber Wipes from Classic Chevy Pic doesn't show the profile.

Denny Graham has some good photos of the staples and other window parts in his posts that are in some of the threads that I link below. BUT - you will probably need to click on "Quick Quote" below his posts to be able to read them. The new forum software hides some of his posts.

UDATED POST:

There are five pieces to the window weather strip. I bought mine from the Truck Shop and I am pleased with the result.
> UPPER FELT RUN - fuzzy (part of kit shown in upper left corner of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705)
> INNER WIPES - fuzzy (part of kit and also shown in THIRD illustration, first column of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705 and PART #51-05708)
> OUTER WIPES - rubber (part of kit - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705)
> VENT WINDOW SEALS - rubber two pieces (shown in THIRD COLUMN, THIRD ROW of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05611)
> ALSO ... RIVETS AND SETTING TOOL needed to reinstall the vent window frame and to attach the straight vent window seal to the division bar. (shown in FIRST COLUMN, FIRST ROW of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05701)
> DIVISION BAR INSERTS - fuzzy (part of kit and also shown in SECOND COLUMN, FIRST ROW of page - REVISED LINK TO PART #51-05705 and PART #51-05712)

I believe that the UPPER FELT RUN was originally held by clips that screwed into the opening in the door. The felt run was pressed into the clips. Clips were included in the kit from The Truck Shop, but I didn't know what they were, so I attached the run to the window with Ace #6 X 1-5/8 Square Drive Trim Screws - full thread cut very short as needed and re-pointed. - (REVISED LINK TO ACE SCREWS)

> CLICK for more info
> CLICK for discussion about the clips

The INNER WIPES were originally attached to the interior garnish with staples. Staples are included in the kit from The Truck Shop. I used the staples. Some 'Bolters use screws or pop rivets, or trim adhesive. The Truck Shop may be the only supplier that sells the inner wipes with the correct bend on the end (?)
> CLICK for more info

The OUTER WIPES slide into a track in the door on the outer side of the window. I lubed the track with dishwashing soap.

The VENT WINDOW SEALS are in two pieces. The pivot rivet that holds the vent window to the frame must be drilled out and the window removed. Use rivets and a rivet setting tool to rivet the straight rubber piece to the division bar. I clamped a piece of aluminum plate into my vice and sat the plate into the channel of the division bar to back up the rivets as pounded them home. Pad the plate with a few layers of painters tape to avoid scratching the paint on the division bar. Do this before you install the division bar fuzzy insert. The curved rubber seal presses into place. A little dish washing liquid makes it easier. Finally reattach the vent window with a pivot rivet and setting tool. I used the same aluminum plate to back up the rivet.
> CLICK for more info

The DIVISION BAR INSERTS press into the division bar. A clip on the bottom of the bar secures the insert; friction does the rest.
> CLICK for more info

NOTE: The new forum software erases some posts that were written with word processing software then pasted into the post. You can read the blank post by clicking on the post, then click "Quick Quote". Click on "Preview Reply" at the bottom of the page to see the info in the blank post. I know that's it is screwy, but by doing so, you can read the blank posts by John Hill in this thread. There are some other blank posts in the links that showed. They can be read using the same process.

MORE SOURCES OF INFO
> CLICK for more sources of info on the entire process

Thanks Lonnie. You are always on target.

Good luck with the MG. Send photos