The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop BJ WELD Problem

OK, had a small leak, about 1/2 in. Didn't drill crack like I should have,soooo it grue to 8in.NOW I drilled it gouged it sand blasted it, wire brushed it, degreased it,(did I menshion I had put Gunk Stop leak in it 2 weeks ago?). It's located just in front of the rear drain cock, and lower. Just a head of the oil line. JB went on nice, I warmed the block with a heat gun.CAN'T get all the water out.Keeps weeping out. Tryed air and even a squirt bottle pump.Slow leak now tryed anotyed round of JB. Any Ideas????.....Paul

Get yourself the stitch kit and fix it or find someone else to do it. You drill a hole, tap it and install a plug. You do this the entire length of the crack to stitch it up. It takes some patience to do it but does work good.

Don did not mention that when you drill each hole, they must over lap the previous hole and the plugs should be solid with the square part sticking out so you can grind them off flush. Cast iron plugs would be even better.

Other then this method, welding is your other choice. A good welder might be able to fix it with cast iron rods.

Joe

I don't know nuttin from nuttin, but would it be possible to pull a vacuum on it to help draw the moisture back into the block and away from the crack? I wonder if that might help while the JB Weld cures? Maybe using a shop vac or a small vacuum pump?

Maybe see if the next lunar event that causes those "King Tides" will pull that moisture away from those cracks and then use a vacum cleaner AND some compressed air to pull and push at the same time... Who would want to take the time to do all that drilling and tapping? Just wait... Those tides will come around again!

I had good luck using Marine-Tex rather than J-B weld on a crack in a Pontiac straight 6 block. It is a two part epoxy like J-B but seems to tolerate moisture better. I have pictures that show the still seeping crack, the repair, and one a year or so later that shows no leakage. The crack was over a foot long. Marine-Tex is very expensive so if there is a boat repair or Corvette shop near you they will sell you a couple of spoonfulls which is enough for the job. Just don't get it till your READY to use it.

..park the truck on a hill leaning the truck favorably to send water in the other direction. Then heat and dry it.

Jack stands!...Thanks, Paul

Had similiar issue. Tried adding a few added to the radiator,waterglass,and a few othrers, none worked and had to flush the system a number of times to try and remove it all. Will never us those things again. Used an AB 2 part epoxy by Moroso sold by Summit and it worked fine.I removed the manifolds and ground it clean, heated with a gun, applied and heated again to help cure. Area must be super clean or it won't hold.