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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,056,941 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 121 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 121 | WHAT TYPE OF RIVETS ARE USED ON THE BATTERY TRAY ? MY TRAY WAS BAD SO I HAD TO TAKE THE RIVETS OFF. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | I'm feel sure they were "cold set" rivets. You can buy them from Granger and I'm sure other places. I had to buy a box of 50, around 11 bucks, when I got some to hold my rear spring brackets in place. Just measure the hole diameter and get you some....... I had to use a press to set mine in but they will work really nice. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | How in the world did you use a press on the spring bracket rivits. I would imagine most people would use an air hammer and buck bar.
Fortunately, I did not have to replace critical components when doing my frame restoration. I did drill out all rivits for failure prone items like shock brackets, and other low stress items. I will go back with bolts so the parts can be easily removed in the future. I would think the battery tray would qaulify as low a low stress item and bolts would work just fine (unless going for a show truck and dont want to loose the points).
I would think grade 8 bolts even on high stress parts like spring brackets would work just fine. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | I am with David on this one I used high-quality grade 5 and 8 bolts. Unless it is an originality must why bother? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | DavidF, believe me, I did not have to hold up the entire springs set.....the rivit only "sets" in ONE spring leaf. I did not have to hold the entire spring set up to press the rivits!! http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r19/LutherParris/52Panel/shacklebolt005.jpgI made up the "straps" and rivited them to the bottom leaf. The bottom leaf has an indention on the back side so that when you press the rivit it flattens out in the recess so that its smooth. Then I bent the straps into a "U" shape to hold the spring pack together with a final "tightening" in a vice. Sorry Big Dan, didn't mean to high jack your thread but in the picture I just posted you can see the rivits I mentioned in the answer to your question. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | Oh, my bad. I thought you were riviting the spring mount bracket to the frame and could not figure how you could do that  One thing I forgot to mention is that riviting something together eliminates part to part movement as the rivit expands to fill the loose fit in the holes. So, if you bolt something together it is best to clamp the parts together then drill one hole so that the bolt (asume 3/8") will just fit the hole. Then install the one bolt and clamp it down tight. Do the same for each successive bolt until you have the part fully attached. This method will help ensure the part is not realying on clamping fiction to keep it from sliding around. | | |
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