The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Brake Shoes

Hey,

Work has been sending me all over the country and I finally had a chance to start putting my brakes back together (48 1 ton). Everything went together fine, until it came time to put the rear drums on.

Long story short the pads are a larger diameter than the drum ID. First instinct was set the wheel cylinders to the minimum offset possible. It looks like the bar for the e-brake is setting my minimum distance though.

Other thing that came to mind were the pads were to thick. I had them re-lined to .25" (this was the max pad left on one of the shoes that I had originally removed).

Am I doing something wrong or are my pads to thick?

Drop the shoes down into the drum. That should tell you a lot. Not having a one ton I can't suggest to much but if your adjusters are "in" as far as they will go and the shoes are centered then it seems you may have a problem.....just what I'm not sure but the shoes could be suspicious. Did you have some place reline them? if so they can turn/true the shoes to your drums.
I'm sure some others will chime in with more experience with the one tons. Good luck.

I checked the shoes by putting them in the drums before bolting everything up, and I did not see any clearance problems. I had previously gone through and (thought I) released the locked up parking break. Looking at it a little closer that might be my problem. I just need to find where its locked up.

My relined pads were incredibly hard to get over the "lip" that was left on my drums. I used brake cleaner for lubrication and eventually was able to get lucky and slide them on. It wasn't fun, though and I was terribly paranoid of wrecking my new brake pads.

Turns out the emergency brake was stil locked up on the drivers side. Took the drivers side cable out and was able to get the passenger side drum on with a little effort. I spent some time trying to get the cable to release and it looks like it is beyond repair.

Any ideas on a cheap method? I found a cable on Chev's of the 40's that looks like the components are correct... but for $90. I figure on hitting up the hardware store to see what options I can come up with.

When I revived my cables, I found bending them and then moving that bend in all directions helped pop the rust bond inside. Penetrating oils will go through the sheath too. With nothing to lose you could try a little heat while flexing.

I have seen posts where if you have the original hardware, some places can make the cable up for you. I think Inline Tube might have been mentioned.

Thanks for the help. I was able to get everything up and running (stopping) today. Finally took it up the street for the first test drive. Next step is new tires.


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