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#868618 07/22/2012 6:08 PM
Joined: Jun 2008
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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The floor in my '51 half ton is completely rusted through and needs total replacement.
Does a new aftermarket replacment floor extend beneath the seat or does it stop just short of it? The metal below my seat is fine.

Thanks.


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 66
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Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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I'm about to install new floorboards in the next few weeks. I bought mine fron Classic Parts (Counterpart brand). The new metal isn't really ready to go, unfortunately. The corner radii for the trans cover opening and the battery cover opening were too large. I had to fix all the corners so the covers would fit properly. You'll also need to salvage things from your old panels like gas pedal bracket, pedal felt seal retainer thingys and stuff like that. There are stiffening brackets on the originals, front to back, on each side of the trans cover opening (underneath). I had to fabricate new ones, I couldn't find them anywhere.
To answer your question though, the ones that I bought extend just under the seat support flange. The only part of the seam that would be exposed is near each door opening.
I'd be happy to email pictures of what I'm talking about if you PM me with your address.
Dave Evans
52_3100

52_3100 #868681 07/22/2012 10:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
...and I like the ones that turn up and take up about 1/2 of the toeboard. I had to put them in my panel and what 52_300 is saying about the panels is correct. I had the same problems he did. I ended up adding a half inch in the middle of the floor panels. I got mine from The Truck Shop.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
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1950 Chevy Coupe
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
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Wrench Fetcher
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I didn't know about the 1/2 inch in the middle. I haven't gotten to that point yet. That's a bunch of work. I think I'll add material to one side before I install them.
Dave Evans
52_3100

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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Okay, I'm really puzzled as to why you have to add metal to the floors before installation! Aren't they supposed to fit darn near perfectly when you buy them new?? Can't the manufactures get it right? What's the problem here?

I'm no body man, and have never worked with sheet metal or the like. I thought this was going to be a straight forward job, but it looks like I was mistaken. Again.


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 66
5
Wrench Fetcher
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I'm puzzled too at the fit problems of this junk. There's just no excuse for a lot of the problems, just carelessness by the manufacturer.

The replacement panels are nothing more than a good start. It takes a lot of work to really get them where you want them to be.

Dave Evans
52_3100


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Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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I don't think it has to do with care, the panels are patterned from a single specific example [or sometimes from factory drawings], and may not be from your exact year - the pieces at the factory weren't always a good fit, so set aside for another - the misfits could have gone into the replacement parts stream and could even have been the "NOS" piece someone found to copy for a repro part

be glad there's something available to start that's close wink

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature, we find it attached to the rest of the world" ~ John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" ~ me
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Wrench Fetcher
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Bill,
I see your point. But it seems to me that if you buy floorboards, trans cover, battery hatch, and other parts all from the same vendor they should fit together.
Dave

52_3100 #868964 07/23/2012 10:32 PM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Don't misunderstand me. I do NOT know if all have to have some added to it. I've never said I had to do that until I see someone else had to do the exact think. I figured with all the stuff I did I mis calulated somewhere along the line but going by all we had to go by we did have to add 1/2" in the middle or otherwise we'd had to add a piece on the side and I didn't want to do that.


1937 Chevy Pickup
In the Gallery
1952 Chevy Panel
In the Gallery
More photos
1950 Chevy Coupe
Pictures!

I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you smile
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,638
S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,638
52-3100, I sent you a PM regarding floor pics.

Thanks.


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod

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