The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Mike Gilman's 1952 GMC 454-30 Dump Truck

Well all I am bring it home tomorrow, been costing me $20.00 plus bucks every time I drive out to where the truck is located to work on it.

I will finish the wiring for the lights tomorrow. Finished installing the new 12V battery, 12V generator and regulator yesterday. The AMP gauge works as well as Temp gauge and Oil pressure gauge. Filled gas tank with a couple of additives for water and crud in tank and old gas.
Installed new rubber fuel line between gas tank and metal fuel line under cab.

Adjusted the old clutch as good as I can get it, so I can drive it home.

Tomorrow is big day, about a 40 mile trip to drive it home.

That's probably the most fun thing there is-driving an old truck home under its own power.
Hope all goes without a problem.
Speed

I drove it home with almost no trouble... almost.

My foot got in the way and I kicked lose the main power lead to the AMP meter in traffic at a stop light. It starts easy.

Other than that I flew home at an amazing 55MPH (Governed Speed) and 4.5 gallons of gas for 35 mile trip... not to bad in all.

Got a one day moving permit from California DMV, so I was legal.

Either the 302 engine has been totally rebuilt or this thing does not have a lot of miles on it. Speed-o-meter glass is broken and dial is faded and unreadable. No speed-O cable. Absolutely no smoke from the exhaust and lifters are silent.

Brakes worked great, but found one leaky wheel cylinder on left rear...else all went well.

It was GREAT weeeeee.

Now to install new clutch and bearings (release and pilot). And any U-joints as needed for drive shaft and PTO shaft.

I am also totally rewiring the truck every wire in it...found a wiring diagram for GMC 100 - 450 trucks. It gives wire size and color codes.

GMCPic

WEEE is a good way yo put it!! I took my '55 2nd Series 6500 on her 1st road-trip,(about 80-miles round-trip) over the Memorial-Day week-end! the only trouble I encountered was that the ckoke was half-closed 0n the way to the camp-ground. "Mo'Tater" uses no oil,and with the headers and dual exhaust,"she" gets about 9 M.P.G.-not bad for an old 2-tonner! My 1-ton Dodge got about 6 m.p.g.,but that thing had a gas guzzling 360. Congratulations on your truck!! please keep us posted."Keep on Truckin'

Well it is home now.

I am now tackling the drive line issues.

New clutch, U-joints (3)and carrier bearing if I can find one.

Replaced the U-joints (3) on the PTO drive line to pump.

Replace the broken Hand brake lever with a new one I had.

Had to send the clutch out to have it rebuilt.

Replaced rear trans seal and PTO seals, drained and flushed gear case. Then refilled with 90W gear oil

Need to find a new shift knob.

I am naming truck Blue Bird.

Reason:

After I got the truck home, after a couple of days sitting a Blue Bird made a nest in the front between radiator and grill.

Which pto does your truck have on it? I'm looking to install one on my 470 series COE with 5 spd. Clark.

The PTO on my truck is the same brand as the
dump bed is, The Heil Company. But it sure looks like a Chelsea or it could be made by Spicer.

I can get the numbers off it tomorrow.

Good Luck

Thanks.

OK...the PTO
Tag Says "The Heil Company"
M/N: B4 40


The casting has the name "Chelsea Products Inc", but no P/N or S/N.

Also, the PTO shaft turns in the opposite direction as the trans.

I have the trans hanging from my engine host right now...want pix?

Hope this helps

IF you are planning on installing a PTO on the trans be aware that the gaskets for the PTO will come in 2 or 3 thicknesses .10, .20, .30 and may be a .05. Plus the blank cover gasket usually is cork. The gaskets are what shims the PTO for gear backlash clearance.

I pull my PTO yesterday and found that the sliding gear was binding because there was not enough gasket for clearance. I had to add an additional .10 PTO gasket for proper clearance.

You could probably find a PTO in some wrecking yard.

Yes, i'd like a photo or two of your pto. Which side of the trans. is your pto mounted. Thanks

The PTO is mounted on the passenger side of the trans, just below the parking brake lever.

It is a two piece unit, the inside piece or part against the trans case has the slider gear that engages with the trans gear. This piece also drops down to offset the PTO output shaft. The outer piece contains the output shaft and shifter fork for the inner slider gear.

BOTH pieces must be properly shimmed to set gear backlash and prevent binding.
Proper backlash will help reduce noise and excessive wear.

I will get the pix tomorrow and post them.

I got the trans all painted up pretty, PTO and parking brake too.

GMCPic

Thanks !

Photos of PTO Mounting on Clark 205V.

http://s1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh594/GMCPic/Heil%20PTO/

Happy Motoring

Thanks for the pictures. You have everything looking good.

I'm sure it is a Chelsea, now known as Parker. The Heil company never made PTO's although back in the 40's I think the GarWood company did make some for the military trucks for winch use.

Well I finished installing the Trans and drive lines today. Them old Clark 5 speeds are heavy to muscle around.

So now I have a new 11.5 clutch, new PTO U-joints, Drive Line U-joint and carrier bearing.

While the trans was out I re-bushed the clutch lever arm and brake arm. And re-shimmed the clutch/brake shaft. Added rubber stops for levers, floor seals for pedals, rubber foot pads, replaced a lot of bolts with grade 8 bolts and nuts

Someone had previously really screwed up the clutch linkage, trying to make the wrong release bearing work, rather than replace it with the correct bearing.

By the way the new clutch works great, my preliminary clutch adjustments were right on the money.

Practice makes perfect, I suppose

Now next comes the exhaust and wiring.

Thanks all,
GMCPic

Put on a new 20" muffler yesterday and finished up all the little details for the trans, PTO and related drive-lines. Put the trans floor cover on today with new foam seals and shift and brake lever boots.

Pull the speedometer today, after soaking in kerosene the wheel and needle work freely...saving that issue of rebuilding the speedometer's internal workings.

Tomorrow I am pulling the gauge cluster and replace the decals on it, switch the gas gauge over to a 12v gauge and new temperature gauge (some monkey cut the cap tube on the temp gauge) then start some preliminary wiring, get turn signals working and stop lights.

Then re-wire the 2 speed axle switch from shift lever to rear axle.

I had a drivers side door from a couple of years back, the glass was all in one piece and the window regulator works great.

More to come