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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 114 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 114 | how the heck do i replaces these? i want to break them free but leave them in so i can doing some powder coating then install the new ones.....thanks for any info guys
Last edited by fosters51deluxe5; 03/22/2012 1:05 AM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | That's what I was thinking. Does your truck have the stock suspension, or has it had an ifs swap? Or by "balljoints", do you mean the ball and socket style tie rods and drag link?
Bill Burmeister
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 114 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 114 | it is stock suspension.....
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | You are asking about the joints that join the drag link to the pitman arm on one end and the steering arm on the other, correct? Unscrew the large pug on each end, take out what parts you can and pop the ball stud out the side. If the ball is round and smooth then a simple rebuild kit will do. If you need to remove the balls, let us know. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | Here is a link to the tech tip article on removing the ball studs. tech tip article Tim
1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | ....there is also a few pics in my photobucket that may help if you have to remove the ball stud. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 114 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 114 | | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | I just remove the ball stud on my pitman arm yesterday. I ground down the peened end flush with pitman arm, but no amount of pounding would get the stud to start moving. I drilled out the center of the stud with a 3/8" drill bit, still no go. I then chamfered the ground down end of the stud (around the hole I drilled) with my dremel tool. Bingo, the stud easily came out. Both ends of the hole in the pitman arm were chamfered by the factory (the peened side more so than the ball side). | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | DavidF...thats food for thought. I did notice the side the ball stud goes in first was chamfered but not the peened end. I must have ground down the peened end so far the chamfer was gone!!! | | | | | Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2010 Posts: 1,001 | I don't think there is consistency with the pitman arms. Some report chamfer and others say no chamfer even within the same model year. The chamfer on mine was rather large…maybe 1/8" or so. Best advice when removing ball stud is to assume it is chamfered. | | |
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