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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 49 | My radiator is about to give up on me. I was going to replace it with a brass one from JC. I saw an aluminum radiator from Champion on E Bay that is cheaper and they say that it cools better than brass. Will the alum last as long as brass? Just though I would get some other Stovebolters opinion. | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 64 | An aluminum radiator is likely to have crimped on plastic tanks and is not repairable. I think my '41 has copper fins on brass tubes soldered to brass tanks. Over the long haul I would choose brass if I wanted an original look and toughness and repairability. I don't think there is a significant difference in the thermal transfer ability of brass and aluminum. The thing to check also,is the thickness of the core. i.e. the number of rows of tubes.
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
1941 AL 3/4 ton 125-1/4 WB, bought by my Great Uncle Matt in 1942. Still in the family.
| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 | Mine is a all aluminum replacement type. Not a direct bolt-in since its for a '37, but it fit close enough for me. If it was black, the average person could not tell it wasn't original. It cools much better then the recored stock one I had, it also holds more coolant.
Joe | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Ron's advice is good. Brass is repairable, Al/plastic is not.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 698 | Champion's are all alum and are repairable. I love the Champion in my '65 and plan on buying one for the '66 when I start the restoration.
My Fleet: 19411953195919651966 1953 Willy's Pickup John Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
| | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 | Larry, what year is your truck? I know a guy that has an inventory of NOS radiators from the 30's and 40's. Prices are quite reasonable. Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 49 | My pickup is a 1951 3100 with a 1956 235 in it | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 581 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 581 | The market has swung to aluminum due to its light weight and cost. So that is what is out there. I'd imagine only specialty companies deal with brass/copper radiators. Many tend to think they are better and more efficient. Truth is a copper/brass radiator dissipates heat better and I believe is a bit more sturdier(fins), not to mention what has already been said. | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 49 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 49 | Thanks for all the input. I have got to replace the radiator before summer and I am thinking that the brass/copper will last longer. | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 57 | I will suggest making an asessment of the original radiator. If it can be repaired,check the cost. A new replacement does infact look good, but if the vertical mount on the sides are not right on the money, it may not give you the correct clearance from rad / fan. It may be in that ''give-up''but is of good quality material. brass. | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | The difference between brass and aluminum can't be measured in product life. Both products most likely will outlast our ownership. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Would he have one for a '37 GMC T18H? Can provide px and/or dims.
Thank you.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | Take your old radiator to a radiator shop. They can re-core it using the old tanks. I've done it a few times. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | go with brass, they are better in almost every respect, one of the reasons that aluminum radiator mentioned above cools better is also stated in that post. "Holds more coolant", meaning that something is bigger, more tubes or something, giving you more cooling surface. They are more expensive, but if you are playing in this game you gonna have to get used to it. | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 1,847 | thats what I said, the brass was more expensive. which is academic for me, as I don't need a radiator. But when I do I will go with brass. The aluminum seems to work fine in the new cars, I just don't want one. | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 back yard wrench turner | back yard wrench turner Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 1,576 |
Last edited by Wayne67vert; 01/14/2012 3:34 AM.
Wayne1938 1-Ton Farm Truck-30- Stovebolt Gallery ForumsWhen I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it! | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 17 New Guy | New Guy Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 17 | how long you gonna keep her??? aluminum is fine , but brass lasts longer...kev | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 | The problem with my recored original was the old top and bottom tanks. The core cooled good enough, but the top tank was worn out. The seam would not hold due to thin brass always flexing during heat and cool cycles. No amount of solder was going to keep it from flexing at the seam, it was repaired four or five times for the same problem. I had enough money in it I could have bought two new replacements!
My aluminum replacement has a thicker core, way better air flow, hold more coolant, cost less then the recored old unit, holds way more pressure, weighs less, and cools better. Thats good enough for me!
Joe | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Wayne, Thanks, called him, getting him info.
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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