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Joined: Sep 2010
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L
Wrench Fetcher
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My radiator is about to give up on me. I was going to replace it with a brass one from JC. I saw an aluminum radiator from Champion on E Bay that is cheaper and they say that it cools better than brass. Will the alum last as long as brass? Just though I would get some other Stovebolters opinion.

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R
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An aluminum radiator is likely to have crimped on plastic tanks and is not repairable. I think my '41 has copper fins on brass tubes soldered to brass tanks. Over the long haul I would choose brass if I wanted an original look and toughness and repairability. I don't think there is a significant difference in the thermal transfer ability of brass and aluminum. The thing to check also,is the thickness of the core. i.e. the number of rows of tubes.


Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls
and looks like work. - Thomas Edison

1941 AL 3/4 ton 125-1/4 WB, bought by my Great Uncle Matt in 1942. Still in the family.
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J
'Bolter
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Mine is a all aluminum replacement type. Not a direct bolt-in since its for a '37, but it fit close enough for me. If it was black, the average person could not tell it wasn't original. It cools much better then the recored stock one I had, it also holds more coolant.

Joe

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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Ron's advice is good. Brass is repairable, Al/plastic is not.


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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J
Shop Shark
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Champion's are all alum and are repairable. I love the Champion in my '65 and plan on buying one for the '66 when I start the restoration.


My Fleet:
1941
1953
1959
1965
1966
1953 Willy's Pickup

John

Vegetarian- old Indian word for bad hunter
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W
back yard wrench turner
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Larry, what year is your truck? I know a guy that has an inventory of NOS radiators from the 30's and 40's. Prices are quite reasonable.


Wayne
1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
-30-
Stovebolt Gallery Forums
When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!

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My pickup is a 1951 3100 with a 1956 235 in it

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The market has swung to aluminum due to its light weight and cost. So that is what is out there. I'd imagine only specialty companies deal with brass/copper radiators. Many tend to think they are better and more efficient. Truth is a copper/brass radiator dissipates heat better and I believe is a bit more sturdier(fins), not to mention what has already been said.


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L
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Thanks for all the input. I have got to replace the radiator before summer and I am thinking that the brass/copper will last longer.

Joined: Apr 2011
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C
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I will suggest making an asessment of the original radiator. If it can be repaired,check the cost. A new replacement does infact look good, but if the vertical mount on the sides are not right on the money, it may not give you the correct clearance from rad / fan. It may be in that ''give-up''but is of good quality material. brass.

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G
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The difference between brass and aluminum can't be measured in product life. Both products most likely will outlast our ownership.

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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Would he have one for a '37 GMC T18H? Can provide px and/or dims.

Thank you.


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,971
B
'Bolter
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Take your old radiator to a radiator shop. They can re-core it using the old tanks. I've done it a few times.

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B
'Bolter
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go with brass, they are better in almost every respect, one of the reasons that aluminum radiator mentioned above cools better is also stated in that post. "Holds more coolant", meaning that something is bigger, more tubes or something, giving you more cooling surface. They are more expensive, but if you are playing in this game you gonna have to get used to it.

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B
'Bolter
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thats what I said, the brass was more expensive. which is academic for me, as I don't need a radiator. But when I do I will go with brass. The aluminum seems to work fine in the new cars, I just don't want one.

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Last edited by Wayne67vert; 01/14/2012 3:34 AM.

Wayne
1938 1-Ton Farm Truck
-30-
Stovebolt Gallery Forums
When I die, I hope she doesn't sell everything for what I told her I paid for it!

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K
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how long you gonna keep her??? aluminum is fine , but brass lasts longer...kev

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J
'Bolter
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The problem with my recored original was the old top and bottom tanks. The core cooled good enough, but the top tank was worn out. The seam would not hold due to thin brass always flexing during heat and cool cycles. No amount of solder was going to keep it from flexing at the seam, it was repaired four or five times for the same problem. I had enough money in it I could have bought two new replacements!

My aluminum replacement has a thicker core, way better air flow, hold more coolant, cost less then the recored old unit, holds way more pressure, weighs less, and cools better. Thats good enough for me!

Joe

Joined: Jun 2011
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E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
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Wayne, Thanks, called him, getting him info.



'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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