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#477945 12/03/2008 5:35 PM
Joined: Jun 2006
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Shop Shark
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Hey guys and gals, I just installed a new upper steering column bearing. I have a snap-on steering wheel puller that was just too big for the old 1941 steering wheel. The bolt holes to install the tool where just too close together and the puller could not be installed.
The old guy mechanics use to take 2 hammers and remove the steering wheel by loostening the nut. Unscrewing it to the top of the steering shaft (flust with the top) and then with thier knees apply pressure to the underside of the steering while at the same time puttung one hammer on the nut and shaft and then hitting it with the other hammer. This will work, buuuuut you can screw up you shaft and/or nut.
Here is what I did. I took off the generator adjusting bracket (the on with the long slot). Then I used 2 bolts and flat washers through the bracket into the steering wheel bolt holes. Then I used a bolt flat washer and nut as the puller center bolt. I also used a small piece of flat bar to put on top of the nut and shaft for protection. It worked like a charm.


I didn't do it, no one saw me do it, you can't prove anything! "Bart Simpson"
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Ex Hall Monitor
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Glad you found a way. I use a generic puller with "J" bolts through the puller & around the steering wheel arms at the base. A good bit of tension & a light tap with a hammer on the end of the puller if necessary (not normally necessary) and off she pops. When my knees didn't complain so much I used the knee & hammer method exclusively. Didn't require much of a blow so never screwed up a shaft or nut.


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I had to pull a wheel to get a cab off, and didn't have a puller, so I made one, then I get to taking the wheel off and it about falls off once I remove the nut, didn't even get to use my fancy puller frown

Made it from a 1/2 x 3/4 bar a couple inches long. Drilled two holes the right distance and size to bolt to the hub, and in the center between the two drilled a 1/2" hole and welded a 1/2" fine thread nut over it, add a bolt, wrench, and a hammer and it's a puller.

Grigg


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
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"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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Man, mine must be on there real good. I fabbed up about the same type of puller with a bar, two bolts to the wheel, and a center bolt on the shaft with some washers. I torqued the wrench with a small breaker bar and it won't budge at all. Even tried a short chain bolted to the fabbed bar and attached to a 10lb weight thinking the momentum of the weight might get it to budge, nothing. Any other thoughts?


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1924 Ford Model T Fordor
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Did you try Tiny's method. I've had some very hard to get off and usually, tension with the puller, someone sitting in the seat with knees up against steering wheel real hard and then a big whack with the hammer and it would pop up and off......be sure to run the nut down on the shaft till its even so that you don't ruin the threads.

..it might help to soak it overnight with some Kroil. Let us know how you make out.


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Yep, if it's being stubborn whacking the center bolt on the puller with a hammer is the trick. Apply constant upward pressure to the steering wheel (as if it were coming off) while you whack the puller.


1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 581
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Thanks for the replies, I shot some pb blaster on it and tried it the next day. It walked right off.


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Leave the nut on as you pull on the wheel and someone taps with a hammer. Your teeth will love ya. Don't ask me how I know
Dan


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