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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 2 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 2 | Hey Guy's, I am new to the forum and new to my inline 6. I was told it was a 292 when I bought it and I have been buying parts based on that. After looking in the forum here I now know I must have a 230 or a 250.
My problem currently is the fuel pump. I bought one from NAPA for a 292 and it seems it should work for my 230/250 anyway. I still seem to have a problem though.
The old one looks identical except that on the arm there is what looks like a wear plate riveted on the end. I hold them up to measure and it appears that the clearances are the same so I think it is just a different style.
The best I can tell there is no rod activating the pump, it seems there is just a cam. I have a new filter and there is gas in the tank.
Right after installing there was a quick rush (1/2 sec) of fuel and then nothing. The engine is spinning good and in fact was running reasonably before. I had it parked for a couple of months and went to start it. The starter was out so I swapped that. Then upon cranking it, it did not pump any fuel so I swapped that.
I do think the tank might have some rust because the old filter had some rust. It would take a pretty big chunk to shut it down though wouldn't it.
I would appreciate any thoughts and if anyone could tell me what this engine is I would really appreciate that as well.
The numbers on the block are; 2CONV F299 473483
Thanks for your help, Henry | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 6,100 | Hy BigBlueEarth, welcome, I believe the fuel pumps for the post 1962 six cylinder engines are physically interchangeable. Actually what usually happens when a fuel tank rusts on the inside is a lot of little pieces glom together to make a very effective plug in the fuel line. If you take the supply line off of the pump, and remove your gas cap, you can blow some air down the line and see if your fuel supply problem goes away after you reconnect everything. Don't use too much pressure or volume a little puff is usually all it take to clear the clog. Once these symptoms appear it will happen over and over again, until the tank is replaced or taken to a rad shop for repair and sealing. Oh yes the fuel pump arm is actuated By an eccentric lobe on the camshaft, hope that helps. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 2 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Oct 2011 Posts: 2 | I tried running a fuel line from a small plastic tank right to the pump inlet. I had a little action but it will not even fill up the filter.
Have you ever seen a pump with around a 1/16" material riveted to the arm. Is it silly to think someone did this because the lobe is somehow damaged?
What drives that lobe? Is it possible that it is not spinning?
Should I just go buy an electric pump? I was trying to avoid this but I guess it's not that big of a deal. I know the rust could damage the pump.
Thanks Again | | | | | Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 725 | Howdy, I would pull the pump off and look to see if there has been any contact with the pump arm, at least where the contact should be. Sometimes it is possible to put the pump arm on the wrong side of the cam. I don't remember if the 230/250 is one of the engines you can do that with though.
good luck and best wishes,
Les | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | Make sure you're putting the pump on right-side-up! Ask me how I know...
cm If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,209 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,209 | How do you know the pump isn't working? the float could be stuck in the carb not letting fuel in. Pump lobes can go bad just like any lobe on the cam, but since they are small compared to a valve lobe, it's unlikely that has happened. Stay with the extra fuel can, make sure the hose is in the fuel, and unhook the line at the carb. Then crank it a few turns over, if you still have no fuel, better look at the pump or the cam. Try loosening the pump bolts 1/2 or more out, then work the pump by hand, it doesn't take much movement to move fuel. This method will eliminate the pump if you get fuel.
Joe | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 435 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 435 | Like Starfire, Make sure you have the pump right side up. It's not hard to get stupid when someone is around and trying to ask questions while you are trying to get something done in the shop. Been there, done that. Tramp | | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 96 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 96 | know the question is which way is right side up? on my '46 2 ton when I took the pump off I'm pretty sure the glass bowl was up and when my father looked at it he said he never seen the glass bowl pointed up always down to collect sediment? Which is it? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | On the 250, the fuel line connections are on top, opposite of the V-8. My old Mercury has a filter on top of it's fuel pump, but I would also think a glass bowl would go down.
cm If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 50 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 50 | did you get this figured out?
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 96 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 96 | glass bowl up, but the casting on my engine block matches fits the pump better with the glass bowl down | | |
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