The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Want to Crank the 261 Outside the Truck! Input?

My '59 project has been a slow-go.
I rebuilt the 261 and it sits in my garage pretty, painted and fully assembled in the cradle I made for it.
I have the front clip removed from the truck and have a ways to go.
I really want to hear the engine run!
I'm assuming some of you have done this type of thing. I think I just need to get over the jitters and do it.
Any input of thoughts or encountered experiences are appreciated... and encouragement... ha!
Jerry

yes, you can do it. Hook up all the necessary stuff and spin it over. I do recommend having a fire extinguisher close by.

I started one while it was hanging from a big oak on a chain fall. It was interesting.... but I do NOT recommend doing it THAT way!!

Secure it down well, because it's going to want to roll over.

Use a couple of nylon ratchet straps to secure it to a forklift pallet, and adapt a garden hose to the water pump inlet. Don't put a belt on the pump- - - -just get enough water flowing to run a steady flow out the upper hose fitting without a thermostat installed. Hook up fuel and a battery, and go for it! As long as you don't goose the throttle too vigorously, you can rev it up a little without any problems with the torque reaction. It's a good idea to run a couple of feet of exhaust pipe from the manifold to get the hot gases and fire hazard away from the intake a little way.
Jerry

Thanks for the experience shared and suggestions.
I know people set valves with the engine running and warmed up... which I can do.
But with new valve guides and a different rocker assembly, is there a recommended cold valve setting to get started?
Jerry Wilson

Increase the hot settings by .002". They might rattle a little, but you won't have problems with the valves tightening up when the engine gets warm.
Jerry

By "hot" settings, I assume you mean the recommended settings with the engine already running and warmed up?
I was just wondering at cold state before ever cranking, where I should set them. Sorry to be dense...
Thanks for moving the thread to the right spot Mr. Cletis!

Jerry

Yes, I should have said "warmed-up" settings. We used the +2 thousandths rule of thumb for valve lash on most of the race engines we ran on the dyno during the 20-minute camshaft break-in runs when it was not practical or prudent to stop the run for a more accurate hot valve adjustment. A slightly loose valve lash is much safer than one that lets the valves tighten up and stay open, even a little. All the loose lash does is make a little noise - - -a tight valve can overheat and burn during a camshaft run-in.
Jerry

Gotcha... Thanks!
With all this "wondering" I've been doing about cranking that thing, I feel much better hearing from the "been there's".
As always Jerry, you're experience and knowledge helps so much more than you might realize. I've read other posts and gained info from you without you even knowing it. And you just thought you were done teaching! ha.
Much appreciated, big guy. Have a great weekend!
Jerry W.

I don't know any better, so I use the instructions in the Shop Manual: a cold setting of .005 increase over the hot setting. Of course this would be at the extreme of how much variance there would be expected between the cold and hot valve clearances.

Run the engine for 30 minutes after reaching a stable running/warm temperature.

Thankyou Tim, will do!
Man, I'm pumped over this one.
All I need now, is a slot of time available!
Jerry

I did it with my 235. The only thing I did not set up was cooling but I only ran it about 35 seconds.

235 Fired Up

Good advice from others on the fire extinguisher, etc. Mine was loosely attached to an engine hoist to avoid tipping over. You can also tell from the video the carb needed to be rebuilt.