The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine dilema

My original 216 smokes a bit and I am torn between upgrading to a newer engine that does not have the babbit bearings or rebuilding what I have, I found a place in Va. that can do the job and he quoted $3,600 to overhaul and extra if I want the bearings upgraded.
Now here is the dilema, since it is the original engine and I am trying to restore not replace most parts should I keep what I have or replace. I am not sure how much of the overhaul I could do myself. How hard is it to overhaul this engine yourself?
Any thoughts or ideas would be helpfull.

Thanks
Ed

you can buy a good 235 around here all day long for 500 bucks or so..........

but if you want to keep the 216 I would look for one that is for sale, I think you can beat that repair deal for a lot less, just shop around.. might even find someone here on the bolt that may have a 216 they need to get rid of because of an up-grade..

you are probably smart enough to do the work but do you have the tools, the space, the time, etc..

click here for 54/235

not much help on my end, good to hear from you..good luck my friend,

Fred

If you want it original rebuild it. If theres some other things on the truck that aint quite original, then whats one more thing that aint?

A friend of mine whos a retired machinist told me he always hated working on those engines, due to how you need to adjust all the oil slingers and shim bearings. Just said they were a real pain.

Im gonna have this problem when my 216 gives it up, (hopefully not soon) my thoughts were to replace with a 235 and keep the 216 in the corner of the garage until I decide what to do or can afford it.

Good luck, Jeff

If you want to enter and win shows with an all original truck then you can answer your own question.

If you want a truck to drive and use and have fun with, then put a 235 in it. It is cheaper, easier, and a better engine.
I suspect this is what you want, or you would have not asked the question to start with?

Grigg

Well, maybe I should put a request in the parts wanted area and go ahead and replace the engine. Putting the old in a corner is not a bad idea.

Thanks guys for your replys.

Ed

At first I was going all original on my 1936 1.5 ton. the 207 just had that restore me look on it's face. After 2 hours of trying to loosen up the crank, and hearing here at the Bolt about the full oiler 235 swap, the 207 is sitting in the corner of the shop. I love going to shows and seeing fully restored trucks but my love for jumping in my truck and driving it to work on a daily basis when it's done, definitly sounds better. If your going to spend $3600.00 bucks on an engine my advice would be to go 235. Just my 2 cents worth.....Good luck....Rick

Ed, check your Private Messages!
Jerry

Jerry,

Thanks, I sent one back.

Ed

another deal for you


and another

That might be a bit to much for the old gal. But thanks for looking.
Anyway how ya doing Fred? are you planing on KC this year?
I think my older brother is going to meet me there.

Ed

doing good Ed...........wife and I are planning on going, but I will probably go with or without her..

Ed, you could use the 235 and still not be in the dog house with your restoration as the 235 was available as an engine option in 41.

drop in a 327!!!

41Chevy, thats good to know, thanks

Rusty, I have an old 57 210 post that is going to be my hot rod so the truck is going to stay on the slower side. but thanks for the ideas


Ed

What year is the truck, and do you think it's got an original, correct-year engine? If so, it would be worth keeping it, and doing whatever rebuilding is necessary to make it reliable. I believe all the 216's had cast iron pistons, right? I remember putting spring steel "expanders" inside the piston skirts to minimize piston slap when doing in-frame rebuilds. During a complete overhaul including a rebore and new pistons, I'd suggest an upgrade to aluminum-alloy pistons if they're available. Those heavy cast iron slugs were rough on babbit rods! Converting to insert bearings involves a bit of machining on the rods, but once it's done, you'll have no more problems with shims! Fitting Babbit rod bearings with a scraper and Prussian Blue, and then setting the oil clearance with shims can be a real PITA!
Jerry

The truck is a 46 1/2 ton, I am sure it is the original engine, I found a place local that will rebuild but they are still talking up to $3,000 and more if they change the bearings. One thought is if I do the rebuild and leave them as babbitt nearings I should still get around another 100,000 before needing to do anything else so maybe I should rebuild and leave as is.

Ed

The current condition of the crankshaft and rods will be the determining factor. If the crank needs regrinding due to rod journal wear or taper concerns, finding a set of rods with the correct undersize for the reconditioned crank may be a problem. If your existing crank/rod combo can be reused with only a shim change to establish the right oil clearance, the cost and effort involved will be a lot less. The Chevy rod has a special thin-layer Babbit called a "spun-in" application which varies from the traditional method of pouring Babbit metal into a rod in a mold. The technology for that type of procedure is kind of a lost art, because the demand for reconditioned rods is so low. If you need undersized rods, they may or may not be available, and if they are, they'll be expensive. The insert-bearing modification still uses the same dipper and splash oiling, it just allows undersize bearings to be fitted without replacing or re-babbiting the rods. The procedure also allows precise clearances to be established, rather than tinkering with shims. Be sure the shop you choose has plenty of experience with 216 engines.
Jerry