The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed Bed Kit Help for 53 3100

I'm installing a bed kit with predrilled holes in my 53 chevy 1/2 ton. Before I install the boards, I have a question about the cross sills. I mounted the front sill using 2 blocks (no rubber pads). The second sill will be floating and not attached to the frame. The 3rd sill is mounted to the frame behind the rear axle using only blocks (no pads). The rear sill has only a rubber pad between the sill and the frame. Is this correct and will this get me the correct spacing between the sills and the angle strips where my boards will fit under?

My second question is the boards themselves. I have an 8 board kit. The manufacturer says the 4 1/4 boards go under the angle strips with the 2 drilled holes placed close to the front sill vs the rear sill. This doesn't seem right as the holes match up better if I place the holes down by the rear sill. Does anyone know which is correct? Thanks.

Go to these for help. Factory fit is a pad under every block and the end sill metal blocks. You need six rubber pads for a 3100.

http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/bedwood.php

http://www.mar-k.com/bed_parts_installation.html

Thanks Brad, the blocks I bought only had 2 pads with them. It makes sense so to prevent squeaking between the wood and the frame.

Probably purchased from ClassicParts which refuses to believe numerous people who have tried to tell them the correct kit make-up.

yep Brad, that's correct. I was finally able to install the bed kit this weekend. It came out great but I didn't put the pads under the blocks. Not something I want to re-do after all the time I spent.

Brad,

I got that 47-53 bed block/pad kit from Classic Parts: 4 blocks and two pads. My problem is that I ordered a 54/55 kit that was supposed to be 8 pads and no blocks.

I guess I should be happy because I had ordered a lot of parts (to get free shipping). They also sent me two different sized front axle bumpers. At least I will not have to argue that one is the wrong size (they can't both be correct).

http://www.classicparts.com/1947-53-Bed-Mounting-Blocks-Pads-Shortbed/productinfo/13-511/

http://www.classicparts.com/1954-87-Bed-Mounting-Pad-Shortbed/productinfo/13-555/

Jim Carter has the right kit:
http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=BP137&i=9515|||

Tim,

For the most part I like their stuff but rarely do I get my order that is not short or has extra stuff in it like you describe. I spent some time on the phone with the parts manager and was told their kit was correct. I then sent him links to other catalog sites with correct kits like Jim Carter all of which came to nothing.

what gives with those guys. I had a problem with one of their cowl panels and even showed them THEIR own two pieces did not match up...not even close! After offering up a great solouticn (a new NOS piece to copy) I was politely told they had no problem with them for 20 years. I posted the conversation here that I had with them including their personal reply but it was deleted for "vendor bashing".
Hey, facts are facts. I don't know if they ever corrected the problem or not. I doubt it.
We have a right to inform our buddies if ANY piece is crap from ANY vendor. That does not say the vendors do not have other good stuff or good service. It just shows their un-willingness to make or correct ONE product that is a dud! ..... I better be quite!!

Interesting posts regarding pads. On my 1949 half ton I have six blocks and four pads. The pads are at the front and rear sills. There was/is a small 12 page booklet entitled "Bed Restoration Manual" and it states that bed block pads are on the first and last sill. There is no mention of pads on the other sill which is bolted to the frame. That does not mean there are or there are not blocks at that location. I do not have pads on those blocks.
I am chasing a very elusive thump and rumble whenever I hit a good bump and wondered if my bed was the culprit. However I believe that with or without the pads as long as the blocks are bolted to the frame securely there should not be any thump - only squeak.

If you need help regarding the blocks and pads, we have a great set of instructions for you.
Look here: http://www.mar-k.com/bed_mounting_information.pdf

Hope this helps.

They are good thank you although I had to read it a few times to get it completely. Figure 2 shows just 2 sills so I presume those are the last two at the rear of the bed. The front one would mount the same way but with the longest bolts.
On my 49 I am missing the pads under the wood blocks at the next to last sill at the rear. The blocks I have in that spot are 2.25 inches.
Question are all your blocks 2.25 inches which would mean I need a pad under mine.

Olblu49:
The blocks are 2 1/8". The pads are 1/4" thick. As you can see from the diagram, the last cross sill (rear cross sill) does not have blocks because the brackets act as a spacer, but you still need the pads in this location.
Hope this helps.

Thank you. It all helps. On my truck the 'middle' set of blocks do not have the pads. The blocks are about 2.25 inches. As you may have read from previous posts that I am chasing an elusive thump/clunk under the truck and had thought of it coming from the bed. Even without the pad and with the bolts snugged up I do not think it would cause the noise. It may squeak but not thump. I could be wrong of course.

Something to think about. It is important that the six or eight mounting points all carry their share of the bed. If your frame is perfect and never tweaked, the combined height of cross sill, block and pad should be the same at every mounting point and they should equal the height of the rear sill mounting bracket and pads as well. Leave out a pad at two spots, and those blocks need to be taller to compensate. If the frame is bent slightly, the height of the blocks will need to be adjusted or shims added.

As for the elusive thunk, check your cross sill that is second from the front. It is not attached to the frame but hangs very close to the frame on some trucks. It can contact the frame when you hit a bump.

Mar-Ktech

Thanks again. That second sill is one of my considerations although I do not believe from the last time I was under there that it was too close. However it warrants a look. I will remove it temporarily and see what happens.
Another spot is where the regular bed bolts go thru the steel strips and at one point on either side it is again very close to the frame kick-up over the rear axle. So close that I cannot put a washer and nut on the bolt as there is no room.
First thing tomorrow I am going to remove that 'floating' sill and let you know.
I am carrying a big spare tire and a tool box in the bed. The tool box is bolted down however - I reversed the bolts that go through the bed strips and put holes in the bottom of the tool box with the bolts coming up thru. The spare is just sitting there and I have removed it to check for the clunk but the tire is not guilty!

Just checked that cross sill and there is less than one-half inch of a gap. I cut some hard rubber as a temporary snubber between the frame and the sill to see if the clunk was there. Unfortunately even with the rubber snubber the elusive clunk persists.
My other guesses and they are not bed related are the front cab mounts or the e-brake cross shaft.

I'm resurrecting an old thread as I'm getting ready to install new bed wood and metal strips in the '47............


I also recently ordered and received the kit mentioned by tclederman. It seems to me that with this kit as delivered, the wooden blocks (2 5/16" thick) would go on the front and middle bed mounting points (no rubber pads) and the rubber pads (1/4" thick) would go on the rear bed mounting points. Apparently, this installation method incorrect.

However, according to Mar-K and others, the correct bed mounting hardware is as follows: the '47-'53 3100 requires four mounting blocks (2 1/8") and six rubber pads (1/4"), for a total height of 2 3/8". The four wooden blocks would go on the front and middle bed mounting points with rubber pads between the block and the frame. The two remaining rubber pads would go on the rear bed mounting points between the frame and the metal bed block.

Can someone confirm this for me? Any and all input will be accepted and appreciated, thanks!

Personally I would trust Mar-K instructions to be 100% correct. The amount of research they have put into their products is amazing.🛠

Thanks Martin!

I'll plan to trim the wooden blocks to 2 1/8" and make four more 1/4" rubber pads, as per Mar-K.

Andy, the important thing about the block height is as noted by Mar-Ktech above. It is the combined height of cross sill, bracket, block and pad that must match the height of the rear sill mounting bracket and pad. Not all vendors make their cross sills the same height so be sure to check yours, including the small cross sill bracket, before trimming your blocks. For that reason the block height is not a "one size fits all" situation.
Mark

Thanks 59 fleet! I read that too and will certainly check those dimensions at all mounting points. It's likely that a 73 year old truck has had parts mixed and matched several times over. In fact, there aren't any bolts in the middle cross sill mounting bracket and the PO used 2" dimensional pine for bed wood. Go figure? I guess when in Rome........

I'm getting all my parts and pieces ready for the install, which should be complete by early to mid October.

Thanks again,

Edit: Checked the mounting points. All measured 4" without any rubber pads.