The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Upgrading tie rod ends...ugh

After much thought I decided to change the tie rod ends with an upgrade for safety while my nephew wire's the 52 panel.
So, I read the tech tip and using the numbers from a post by another bolter who has done this I bought the two tie rod ends and the adjusting sleeve.
Note: the tech tip here is more about getting the ball stud out than the actual tie rod ENDS.

Today I took off the tie rod with the ends and steering arms all together and brought them home.
Took the tie rod ends apart, ground off the peened end of the ball stud and then drilled a 1/4" hole..enlarged to a 3/8" hole and drove the ball studs out.
For those wondering the holes are ROUND on my 52.

OK..the new tie rod ends are tapered. When I compared the left with the right there is some difference.
Does the two ends suppose to have different taper? The taper mic's the same next to the body of it but the actual taper at least looks different and one stem is longer and slender while the other is shorter. Strange thing is I have two set of numbers for the same thing. Obviously one set of numbers are for 5/8 and one set of 3/4" so that may be my problem. I'll double check as no one seems to specify which was which.

[color:#000000]So, I took the steering arm (the one the tie rod ends go into) to the machine shop to have them reamed. I took the ends with me so he could taper the left to the left and right to the right as I had them marked.
QUESTION: does the upgrade tie rod stems go UP through the steering arm OR on top and the stem sticks DOWN though the steering arm. Just wondering.
***I think I better call the shop in the morning and tell Buddy NOT to taper the steering arms yet...if he hasn't already done it.

Now, I come home and decide to clean the tie rod itself again and re-do it with Por15. Thats when I decided to just screw the adjusting sleeve up on the end of the tie rod....... NO GO. The tie rod is 3/4" and the adjusting sleeve is only 5/8". Something is WRONG with this picture.
Now I realize that, hey, the tie rod ends will not screw on my tie rod. YES, I know, why did I not check the stuff more through before hand!!! Well, I didn't.

Basically I now have a sleeve and two tie rod ends that will not fit on my tie rod.

I'm ticked. I'm going back and read that tech tip again and again to see what I missed. Something is definitely amiss here. (as well as a few links pertaining to the same thing)
Anyone had this problem? ..... and advice, any help, who's done this before?

Achipmunk,
So I have a 52, chevy 3100. And I basically just did the same thing you are doing. New tie rod ends, pressed out the old balls etc....and I had zero problems. To the best of my knowledge, the tie rod ends go UP through the holes in the steering arms. My new tie rod ends fit my original tie rod with no problems.

Who did you buy your parts from? I think you purchased tie rod ends for the "upgraded" tie rod, which would explain the size difference.

I read your post again....you have me miffed too....my tie rod ends were not tapered, and both were the same size. I just made sure i installed the correct tie rod end on the correct side due to potential cross threading.

Danhami, thanks for your quick reply. I used a set of MOOG numbers that are suppose to work! After investigating some of the links on here and on other sites I see I ended up with two sets of numbers.
oh, yes, I'm upgrading the tie rod ENDS.

So, since you did a 52 can you answer these questions.

ONE:
You stated that the ends fit the tie rod no problems which means your tie rod ends were 3/4".....that great BUT did you have to have the hole in your steering arms tapered for the new ends?

Two: I agree, the tie rod ends should go UP through the hole in the steering arm. I wanted to know this because it determines which side the machine shop tapers the hole.
I told him to do it like this but now I don't think he better taper anything until I find the right tie rod ENDS.

Three: Am I correct saying that since you had the correct ends you did not have to buy an adjusting sleeve for the tie rod?

Four: do you have the sctual numbers you used??

OH, I bought my parts through Advance Auto as I deliver parts part time for them and I get a good discount. Nevetheless, I got the MOOG numbers I ordered it just seems now its the wrong ones.

1-I did NOT have the holes in the steering arms tapered. (you have me worried about this) I gotta pull mine apart tomorrow and look but I could swear my new tie rod ends were not tapered.
3-correct. I did not need an adjusting sleeve.
4- I don't think I have the part numbers, but I will look tomorrow.

..... I've been doing some more investigating tonight. Its only 2am here but can't sleep. Seems someone slipped me the wrong numbers. Both the tie rod ends I have are male ends and to even work I'd have to have a sleeve on each end of the tie rod to make them work.

So here's the score.
1. stop the m/c shop from tapering.
2. take the parts back for a refund
3. try to find the parts at Carquest or cross numbers at Advance.
as one post said that Napa does not carry ES29L and ES29R which I think is the correct numbers but the poster said Nape no longer carried them as they were obsolete!...but another bolter says they may still be available at Carquest. I know the folks at Carquest so if Advance can't get them I'll try them.

I think yours are probably correct Danhami. Sleep well tonight.

I won't post the numbers I was given and are wrong. I do NOT want to confuse anyone else. I'll sort it out.

Thank you.

Chevs of the 40's - Has 1934-54 1/2" & 3/4" thd. L&R Replacement type Complete w/ball.

The Filling Station - AF-168, These tie rod ends replace the original housings completely. They come with a fixed ball stud, like a modern tie rod end. You must remove the original ball stud to install this tie rod end. THESE MUST BE USED WITH STRAIGHT SHAFT OPENINGS, NOT TAPERED.

Jimmy Carter - ME347L, ME347R, Modern 1/-ton tie rod end assemblies were introduced in the 60's to replace the original multi-piece end.

Classic Parts of America - 76-005 Replacement type tie rod ends complete with ball stud. Specially designed to replace original tie rod end and ball stud as a unit. Superior design.

I know the idea for a lot of guys is to save a few bucks by getting them from a FLAPS. But sometimes it's worth a few bucks more to save all the headaches. All of these run between $35 to $45 each and have the straight stud and the female threaded clamp and it's a direct bolt on half hour job.

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Alvin, are you sure the numbers you have are not for the adjustable drag link? For that you would need the threaded sleeve and two male threaded tie-rods (one left, one right handed). For the tie-rods, you shouldn't need anything except the female ended modern replacement ends. The ES29's will fit, both are 3/4" thread, same as your tie-rod bar.

Joe

Joe, no names but the numbers were SUPPOSE to be correct. I agree that the sleeve may have been one for the drag link but I replaced it with an adjustable when I put power steering on it.

Heres the UPDATE:
Called the m/c shop man in time to stop the tapering on my arms.

Stopped at Advance and got my refund. AND they crossed the CORRECT numbers (ES29L and ES29R as Joe indicated) and they can get them from Rare Parts for over $100 EACH. No thanks.

Talked to a couple of my stovebolt buddies and checked the vendors. Here is my report for upgrading tie rod ENDs to modern style which replaces the old ball and stud and Classic Parts says theirs will drop right into the round hole left when ball studs are removed. (I cannot guarantee the other vendors will do that as I have not chatted with them!)

Truck Shop.........$49 a Pair (#47-08808)
JimCarter .........$80 $40 EACH for left and right ME347L-Me347R
Filling Station ...$65 a Pair (#Af-168)
Classic Parts .....$49 a Pair (#76-005)
( (Denny, thanks for checking on the part#'s)

So, with my Stovebolt discount, you know where I went! The guy, Brad, at Classic Parts, also took the time to go "double check" that the replacements I'm getting are not tapered and will drop right down in the round hole where I knocked out the old ball stud.

In the end I got my refund back from Advance and still have money left for Hardee Biscuits!! And I KNOW what "the deal is" to replace tie rod ENDS on a 52 1/2T AD.

Before closing this subject I must say that many of you have the correct numbers but out of all the info I just had to pick the one that was NOT right. Just my luck!... and even then I believe I was given the wrong numbers by mistake. In the end it was a good learning experience on my part.

It's good to have a happy Alvin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Pete

Alvin,I bought mine from Classic Parts of America,tie-rods
I also put the urethane boots on them.


Tim

I was just going to order tie rod ends for the 38 when I saw this post. Some venders strongly suggest upgrading to 1" tie rod with the power steering up grade,Is this really necessary or not.I see Alvin that you Kept the original tie rod so Ill probabley follow your lead.

goneagain, My original is 3/4" and it looks plenty beefy to me....unless one is rusted real bad I see no need to change.....and if I was a vendor I'd suggest you buy a new one to!!!

Chip and All,
For what it is worth, I did this on my 46 1/2. I tappered the steering link ends (all 3) and the pitman arm as well. The big one, I tappered with the tie rod stud going in the steering link from the top and castle nut/cotter pin on the bottom. The logic is this; if the castle nut comes off, the tie rod end and stud will not fall out of the hole and allowing the steering to seperate. If you go up from the bottom, with the nut/cotter pin on top, if they vibrate loose and come off, the tie rod or drag link can just fall out and to the ground.
This is the number of the parts I used from Car Quest, along with the whole swap.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dodsonbrett/3317485768/in/set-72157614496885625/
I am going to reatain the OE tie rods ends and drag link, so 46'rs yell at me.
Cavebull