The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Dash Removable?

Hey gents, taking my truck down piece at a time... getting lined up to paint the frame, BUT I really wanting to get my wiring sorted out.

NOTHING works... blinkers, headlamps, tail lights, etc.... my gas guage does work (thank God), but that's about it. I'm shocked with the condition of the "wiring job" under the dash, so much electrical tape!

Is the dash panel removable to help in re-wiring everything? I put my mind in a pretzel trying to figure out if it was, but I think it's easier just to ask the pros

it's a good idea to always indicate what year you're asking about, but ..... no it's not removable, it's your body that needs to get pretzeled to do wiring

Bill

Check and cash ('57)

I got bored and started doing some o' that "dash yoga", once I got the cluster out I saw all the spot welds and had to sigh

I haven't scoped it out enough yet, and might be ignorant in asking, but do you think one could drill out the spot welds and replace with bolts? Thus making the dash removable?

It's dirtier than @#$# under there, and I want to feel confident with laying new paint

you can drill out the spot welds with a proper drill, but it has to be welded back in, the welds along the top are on the lower windshield flange and it needs to be as the factory made it to fit the windshield - also there's a mount that positions and reinforces the steering column, don't think bolts would be a good idea there .... put on your mask and get out the air hose, if you do a proper job of wiring you'll never be under it again, no reason to lay any paint up there

Bill

There is a reason the lay paint everywhere. Simply to stop the rust and prevent rust, and rust out. ie major problem with these and other older vehicles, if the factory would have painted every little nook and cranny we wouldn't be fighting all the rust out and panel replacements.
The dash is part of the structure of the cab, it helps add strength to the whole structure.

I've never seen a 'rust out' that originated from under the dash .... unless the windshield leaked for years, in which case no amount of paint would prevent it

Bill

I agree that painting under the dash would be a good idea.... albeit an unnecessary step. Once you get the old wiring and gauges out you should be able to do a pretty good job of cleaning up under the dash to be able to paint. Being as it is completely hidden if you don't get a perfect finish it won't really be a big deal. It obviously is not an ideal situation with the dash in, but it could be done.

Something to consider is if you do remove to clean up/paint/wire you will still have get under to drill out welds and then back under to weld it back in and then repaint the welds. You probably won't be a whole lot further ahead by taking it out.

My dad switched cabs on his(now mine) '55 GMC with a Chevy and swapped dashes back to keep it a GMC. I wasn't involved in that process though...but it can be taken out and replaced. Only you can determine if it is worth doing or not.

Tad

Thanks gents, after reading all your responses... I went out to look at the truck with a clear head. and I think I'll be fine with the paint. it's still almost a "perfect" original sea green under the dash...

with all the details given by you guys, I think it would definitely be more work than it'd be worth (considering it's present condition)... I think the chance of rust with the removal/re-install would be higher after, than there is now.

I also think your making a wise choice by leaving the dash in. There are about 54 welds at the windshield alone!

Paint the underside of the dash White, it reflects the light making it brighter when trying to trace a problem with a flashlight

Mike B

Nope it's not removable. I'm sure you could modify it be and still look reasonably original but you may compromise structural integrity of the cab. It looks like to me the dash is an essential piece. I did a complete rewiring job on my 47 chevy and had to work under the dash. If you leave the radio out you can actually sit up under the dash and work that way which isn't as bad as some of the alternitives.
Make sure to color code your wires and make things disconnected at the firewall. Just becasue you "did it right" don't mean you wont be back up there again.
I installed a new blinker module when I redid the wiring and I tied it into the main hot wire. My thought was I wanted my emergency flashers to work with the truck off so I don't burn up points or the coil. But found out the dumb thing drains the battery, I think there's a problem with the micro circuit that keeps the in cab position light on. So I gotta fix that. Also my truck was converted to 12volts long ago which I kept. I planned on wiring up the heater through a resistor as it's better on the motor, well the motor don't turn on 6volt. It's either so wore out it needs the 12volts or it was converted too. SO don't ever say you wont be up there... And you never know what you may need down the road, air horns, brake controller etc.
As far as paint, I'd recommend it, but you'll have to hand brush it. Very hard to get a paint gun particularly a gravity fed up there.

I cant imagine that pulling the dash would save labour over doing the wiring in-situ.
A spray can of heavy zinc paint did a fine job under my truck's dash. It had no factory paint under the cowl- early canadian one. Amazingly there was still some silver steel under there and the roof. Around the cowl vent was badly rusted though.
I have to rewire mine soon- I am working on a nice powerpoint diagram, i will put it in the forums when done.

look forward to seeing it!!! (although I don't think i have powerpoint

Curse it all to hell! then I have no idea what bolt I took out under the dash thinking it was holding the dash on my '46... crap... well at least I have the floor plate and tranny out so I can sit on the ground and look behind the dash at the mess of wiring by flashlight.

Be glad you don't have to lay with your [censored] on the seat, the back on the floor, and your arms between the gear and ebrake lever.

It takes 3 weeks for your back to heal from an hour like that.

It's the same crap when you have to work under the hood, standing on the front bumper. The legs feel like [censored] for days after that.

Still we do it... crazy ? Yes of course.

when working under the dash,,i always take a few old pillows and situate them in the points where needed. They help for propping up your head too.

Then add bifocals or trifocals into that equation and your neck will never be the same again!

You guy's are making me laugh, due to the fact going through same ordeal. Bad thing with me cant see with bifocals nor can I see with no glasses. Darn

The dash on '41-46' trucks is removable. I think there are only 2 bolts and half a dozen screws holding it in place.

Jeff

Then where is the 6 screws? I can't find were to take them out? I best I can figure is under the windsheild but I haven't been able to get the weatherstrip out to check.

There are two bolts located at either end of the dash on the lower corners, facing upwards from the bottom. I believe if you roll out the windshield, you can access the clutch head screws with a short driver. I think they follow along the lines where the vents come through, but I can't remember for sure.

Jeff is correct on the 4t6. Here is a picture of mine out. You need to drop the steering column and there is a bracket from column to firewall. Have fun and good luck
Dan