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Hey Guys...

I just bought a 1965 Chevy c30 Dump truck. I do not plan to make her anything near a show queen, just a work truck.

She has some rust and dent issues I want to fix so I do want to paint her. I was thinking about Tractor paint from the Tractor Supply Store.

I understand that the tractor paint is enamel and will fade over time. Will it look like an old paint job or a bad paint job with time? I would not mind a truck that has a patina look to her with age.

Should I look at the “Valspar Tractor & Implement Spray Paint “ or the “Valspar Restoration Series Tractor & Implement Finish”?

In addition, do I have to prime the truck (I will prime the bare metal areas) before applying the paint? Also, if I use the enamel and decide to paint her with ‘better’ paint in the future, do I have to completely stripe the enamel paint off first?

Thanks again for all your help…

Last edited by Bornco; 05/06/2011 5:39 PM.

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1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
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My guess is that you will have the look you want in about 4 years. From experience it took that long with rustoleum. And it will last and look good in 10 years.

Best of luck


Dennis
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i read a while back on the net several guys doing it and having great results. I did a quick search and found these articles that may help:


How to Use Farm Implement Paint on a Car


Paint Your Car With Rustoleum


Tractor Supply Implement paint

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I'll let you know in a year. I did this in May 2008. It is fading but I have not taken any care to preserve it. It is my camping, hunting and general beater truck.
Here is an example of the use it gets.
My thought is that any paint will fade and deteriorate with age if not cared for.


1953 Chevrolet 3600
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A paint manufacture near by told me that a UV protectant can be added to rustoleum, I think most all these paints are alkyd enamels which means they do the cross link thing that the epoxy paints do, only it takes time for them to cure. They are not as fuel resistant as the epoxy paints are, I'm sure a hardener can be added. IMOP rustoleum is good paint, better than the factory had back in say the early 40's I'd think.

For the last question yes, you d want to strip it.

Last edited by Truckrolet; 05/07/2011 12:11 AM.

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The other thing that I would consider when using straight enamel is the color because it will fade.

They will all get lighter looking but some actually change in color, especially the colors with red pigment in them.

I've got 3 things which have been outside 24/7 since 1995
Red trailer- faded to a dusty pink look
Gas pump - Blk and yellow, dusty looking but still black and yel.
Street lamp - Mauve color, dusty looking, but turning gray.

I got to say, I'm pleased with the endurance of the paint and maybe if I had washed these items more than once every 3 years they wouldn't look so dusty.
If ya wash the oxidized paint off the color will stay looking better.

Dan


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Here is the recipe for paint I used. Have fun and good luck
Dan

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Thanks everyone for your input... Thanks Dan, I see the recipe includes beer... I wonder if Jack can be substituted.

I just came back from NC with a gallon of John Deere Green for the cab, Int' Harvest Red for the dump bed and a quart of black to darken them a little to get them a little closer to the original paint colors of the truck.

Like I said, I know the truck will turn out great and I don't mind if she turns back to an old looking paint job... This time it will be minus the rust which I plan to fix before the paint job.

As always, thank you guys for help keeping my eye on the prize.


...Russ


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1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
1966 Chevy C30 Tow Truck
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Originally Posted by Chev4t6
Here is the recipe for paint I used. Have fun and good luck
Dan
thumbs_up What kind of beer is that? never seen it before.


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Labatt's Blue, it's a special additive. Add about 6 of those to your belly and your paintjob will look perfect.


"Happiness equals reality minus expectations" - Tom Magliozzi
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I am just starrting to do an "age correct" paint job, perhaps what I have done thus far may be helpfull to ya.

I primed components with Sherwin Williams Kem-Kromik brown (red-oxide) primer using a 4 inch roller. It really lays down nice and the color was spot on, at least IMO. The roller is needed to create texture to allow visbility of the primer after wet sanding.

http://inlinethumb01.webshots.com/47808/2884169740103882008S600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/48592/2414933230103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

I did a "test" panel by using the inside of the tailgate. I used Rustoleum orange alkyd enamel paint. Here is what the inside of the tailgate looks like after sanding with some 320 grit. I need to knock down the gloss in the crevices with some red Scotch-brite pads.

Pretty stoked about how this turned out as it just what we were looking for.

I'll post more photos as things progress.

http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/46439/2193913170103882008S600x600Q85.jpg
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/48848/2260709130103882008S600x600Q85.jpg
[IMG]http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/47853/2025746450103882008S600x600Q85.jpg[/IMG]

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 07/18/2011 12:14 PM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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Hey Hot Rod John...

That is exactly what I was looking for. I don't mind doing a little extra work to get the patina look (sanding etc). On top of that, the extra thick paint will wear better and provide that much more protection against rust. The pictures helped out alot!

Ever have a bad day and find something that turns it around. Your post just did that for me. Thank you!

..Russ


1960 Chevy Apache (C10)
1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
1966 Chevy C30 Tow Truck
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"MONGO"
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Russ,
We painted my 53 2 Ton with Tractor supply Massey Red in 2006, My goal was to get something on the spots that were starting to surface rust badly. I had been told that it would fade quicker than regular paint and that It would look like an old paint job in a couple years. Those folks were trying to discourage me but that's what I was really looking for. 5 years of the truck living outside, I'm pretty happy with how the paint looks, I frequently get comments from folks like "Old paint sure has held up good!". We did end up putting regular primer on the truck and taking most of it down to bare metal when the old paint became a mess.
Here's the process of painting her : http://www.mongosgarage.com/projects/536400/paint.htm
She was so Shiny then it made me Cringe but she's faded out good now. Here's some pictures from this year https://picasaweb.google.com/110211...v1sRgCMe7x6q8tfn1iAE&feat=directlink

Good luck with your paintjob!
MONGO

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Originally Posted by Bornco
Hey Hot Rod John...

That is exactly what I was looking for. I don't mind doing a little extra work to get the patina look (sanding etc). On top of that, the extra thick paint will wear better and provide that much more protection against rust. The pictures helped out alot!

Ever have a bad day and find something that turns it around. Your post just did that for me. Thank you!

..Russ

thumbs_up

Faux-tina really a lot less sanding and prep work than a "real" paint job.

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 07/10/2011 3:17 AM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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You guys are bolstering my confidence too. I've been trying to figure out what to do with my '63 C20. I don't want to get a high dollar paint job because it's going to be a daily driver and worker, I'd be afraid to drive it. So I was going to go the route of rustoleum and such but I wasn't sure how it would hold up. Now I feel pretty good about it. Mongo, that truck looks perfect in my book. I love that dulled look.


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1978 Chevy K30 Custom Deluxe
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Originally Posted by Hot Rod John
.... I'll post more photos as things progress....

Slow progress, but progress nonetheless thumbs_up

Did a bit more work on the stepside bed. The bed had shiney spots from the areas that were low and didn't get sanded. I used my hand finishing sander with a green Scotchbrite attached. This helped but there was still some gloss. I then used some full strength degreaser (Purple Power) and simply wiped it on with a shop rage, then removed it with a dry shop rag. That did the trick.

http://inlinethumb47.webshots.com/31342/2427758890103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/49393/2524707570103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/46355/2398666780103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb05.webshots.com/46340/2878906570103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/47499/2702799340103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb33.webshots.com/47840/2248379360103882008S600x600Q85.jpg

Last edited by Hot Rod John; 11/09/2011 3:39 AM.

In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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Hey John...

Your truck looks great!! Love the look!!

...Russ


1960 Chevy Apache (C10)
1965 Chevy C30 Dump Truck
1966 Chevy C30 Tow Truck
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Originally Posted by Bornco
Hey John...

Your truck looks great!! Love the look!!

...Russ

Thanks Russ thumbs_up


In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

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Looking gooood loooking goood


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In the Stovebolt Gallery ~~ "The Orange Crate" 1965 C10 SWB Step Side Build Thread

Inspired to be different. Different in a way of my own, not in a way that others strive.

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