The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Doors window channels

Any hints on removing window channels from a '50 1/2 ton. Shop manual doesn't help.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1948_51truck/51ctsm0111.htm

Did you have problems when following the procedure described above?

If and when you get them out you may want to replace them. I discovered that Chevy's of the Forties carries channels of a much higher quality than anyone else. I bought a set from either LMC or Chevy Duty and forgot I had them and bought a new set from Chevy's of the Forties. When I compared the two it was amazing the difference.

I have a 48 3100 with no vent window.

I bought the window channel from Jim Carter and am having all sorts of problems. The windows don't want to go up and down. The drivers window gets caught on the way up.

How is the Chevs of the 40s channel different? The channels from Jim Carter are thick.

Thanks for any response

I don't rememeber where I bought mine but here is what I did.
Where the window channel follows the door I used small screws to lag it is not glue. My channel follows the path of the original exactly. Second it was to tight at first but now some two months of driving later they are perfect.

Did yours seem to get stuck at intervals? Mine is not tight all the time but seems to get stuck. I am afraid to strip the gears. The new window mechanisms have brittle gears that break.

My drivers door window gets stuck about 4 inches from the bottom. With a screw driver I can push the big semi-circle arm away from the door inside and it will go up.

This is just not fun

It sounds like the new regulators may be part of the problem, you may need to bend them slightly for clearance. They should not bind anywhere inside the door. I think you may also want to check the channels for proper alignment since it is only in spots I am guessing it is that coupled with the regulator being slightly off.

By channels you mean the ones attached to the front and rear of the door? I also need to glue or screw the felt channel into these lower channels and the upper part of the door.

Thank you. I did not think of bending the regulators. I am using one original and the other is new with the original mechanism at the handle. The new mechanism's gears sheared off at the handle. Cheap metal.

I think it has less to do with the welded channels inside than the felt channel and how it lays in the track. The channel needs to fit tightly to the contour on the outboard side of the door to avoid binding. It also needs to fit pretty precisely so that the inner and outer trim panels do not push against it causing further drag on the window frame. As a note I could not achieve the correct fit with just the glue. I used a combination of both but the screws are what held it in place to make the glued sections work. Mine was a tight fit at first but has now become almost perfect with a bit of time, don't know if pictures would help you but if they will I can shoot some.

I have the same problem with the window channels I installed on the '53, I've had those new channels in the storage room for years and now I do not remember which vendor I got them from.
But they make the window glass fit so tight that sometimes I am afraid to ruin the regulators.
I wonder if I didn't use too much weatherstrip adhesive.
Fortunately they are the original regulators, so I am sure that eventually the windows will roll up and down easier.

Ahhhhhh. That could be the big part of the problem. I am pushing the channel down between the window and channel then rolling the window up and down. Then complaining about it not working right.

Did you glue it in the lower track? Or use glue and screws up where you could get to it?

There are clips at the bottom of the side rails for the channels.

Thanks again for all your help.

Oldbluetruck:

I used some 3M adhesive on the (lower-side) track guide while installing the channel on the passenger door.
But when I was going to do the driver's side I decided to just use the lower clip.
You see, there's a small screw on the upper end of the track guide that secures the track to the door frame (inside)
I figured it wasn't a good idea to use any glue there, it would make a future removal harder than it has to be
(JMHO)

Charlie

Thanks Charlie. That is what I was thinking. Just attach it where I can get to it.

Yesterday I received the back order from Classic Chevy. Before I ordered the channels from Jim Carter I had sent an order to Classic Chevy. This order included the channels and the speedometer needle (red). I got the needle, too. NICE

The channel from Classic Chevy is smaller. I am hoping the Jim Carter was too thick and that was my problem. I will try to change this out this coming weekend. I will let you know how it comes out.

I also found rebuild kits for the window mechanisms rollers. That will be nice.

I put the needle on the speedometer and will put it in and finish the wiring. I need to figure out why the master cylinder is leaking in the rear. I wish I could find a new bango bolt. Mine is quite rusty and that could be the problem.

Excuse me if I jump in here but the thread seems to be in the same neighborhood as the one I'm looking for and is only a month old so I'm feeling lucky...
Old Blue mentioned:
I also found rebuild kits for the window mechanisms rollers. That will be nice.
[/quote]

I just got replacement rollers for the window regulator on my 58 GMC today and after studying the way they fit and the size I carefully drilled out one of mine and come to find out the original hole is larger than the shaft of the replacement. It also looks like a sleeve or something else is required to make the back side hold securely. Is there something I'm missing? Does anyone have some insight into this? Been there done that?

Thanks

caso, this seems to be the problem on a LOT of the kits. I had the same problem with one on an AD truck. Your best bet now is to weld up the hole and redrill it or go to Ace Hardware and buy a bushing that will fit in the hole and your stem fit in it to.

Hindsight is always good and the next time I'll just file off the peened side and drill through the original stem thats pressed in.......
OR you can take your old one to a machine shop and let them cut you the STEM part of the kit but increase the size of the stem going into the regulator.....am I making sense. I had mine done that way and it works good.

Thanks Achipmonk, after studying the fit\misfit of the parts I found a solution. Since the new roller shaft was large than the regulator hole I drilled out the hole to 3/8 which gave me the dia fit and then since it only sat half way (1/16) thru the regulator I used my mig and tacked aound the back side. I thought about doing the sleeve route but finally decided I didn't want to spend the day running around chasing a more 'elegant' fix when I had a functional one at hand. Besides, now the next time it needs the be addressed it will be appearant what is what.
Since only repaired the faulty rollers (3) and bought 2 sets I'm thinking of stashing the other ones somewhere on the regulator for the next time. A hidden bonus of sorts...

On a somewhat related note, My 49 3800 with no vent windows has a rusted out drivers side rear window channel guide. I would appreciate any advice on obtaining a used or new replacement.

Thanks

pc493800 -
re: lower edge guide

No price shown, so the part may not be available any more (?) ...

The Truck and Car Shop
Lower right corner of page
Call for price
(I bought a drivers side guide for my '54 from them)

I would like to know what the price is if you find out.

On our vintage of truck (47-50) it is common for these guides to be rusted. Especially the front ones.

TIA