The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Brake Bleeding

Just a note to weigh in on bleeding methods. I couldn't get a pedal at all on my 58 Spartan using conventional pedal-pump or vacuum methods. I then purchased a small pressure bleeder (nothing fancy - plastic tank w/ guage, hose, and correct adapter for the cast iron MC). Now I have a good pedal, but not convinced I've got every bit of air out, as even w/ the shoes adj. all the way out, the pedal goes low (about 2" above floorboard). I encountered a problem that some of you may have ideas on. At the end of the process, the manufacturer says to tilt pressure tank away from pick-up hose and open closest bleeder until master cyl. fluid level falls just below prescribed level. That's a great idea if you have a plastic MC reservoir, but otherwise it's a guessing game. Is there another way to release the bleeder pressure without risking getting air into the brake system? Your greater experience might save me a lot of frustration. Many thanks for your ideas........

Do you have a hydrovac? If so, it has 2 places to bleed. As far as the fill line on the MC, I just fill it to the top and use a battery filler to suck it down a little. Be careful not to get brake fluid on paint. It ruins paint.

In addition to what Ken says, if it does have a hydrovac, you need to bleed both screws in the proper order. Also, bleed it once, before the wheel cylinders, and again thereafter.

Jeff

on my 47 with hydro vac, how do you guys bleed the hydro vac? man that thing is hard to git too and see. I did it about 6 years ago, but I had the sheet metal off and now I dont. I could reach it but not easy and I could not see it to bleed, have to go by feel. Looks to me like I would have to take my sheet metal off again to do a good job - able to see what I am doing.

Thanks for the replies! I did find all the booster bleeder screws and believe I got them in the right order; and I'll make sure to go through it again, this time bleeding the booster one time again AFTER the wheel cylinders. I still haven't figured an ideal way to remove/release the pressure bleeder without problems........

I used a pressure bleeder on my '52 COE. I was able to remove the battery and reach down through the hole to access the top bleeder and crawl under it to get to one on the side. I'm afraid I didn't worry about the paint, I just pulled the top off and sucked out some of the fluid using a old turkey injector. It was a bugger to bleed and a pressure bleeder was the only way I could get any pedal. And at that I bleed each place about three times in rotation before I felt like I had all the air out. I also "surged" the system between rotations like it describes in the manual. By that I mean that I started the engine and stomped the brakes hard a few times before re-bleeding everything. Got air after the first two tries, but only fluid the last time. Hope that helps,
Scott

In my '47 COE, the hydrovac is sited directly under and to the rear of the drivers seat. Pop the seat out, remove the metal panel and it is reasonably easily accessed.

Tom, where is yours located?

Jeff

Think mine is in the same place, thanks Jeff. I will try that, did 200 miles in mine yesterday. All went well, almost all freeway at about 60mph with way more traffic than I like. Truck did well though. But - noticed this morning I have a brake fliud leak on the right rear, second time - darnit. Could find nothing wrong the last time. thought it was the cylinder, but it was the fitting. Look's like I will be bleeding again, oh well. The old boy did well yesterday :-)