The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk por-15

From what I have read on this forum some of you swear by this stuff. Is it really as good as you say? How well do you prep the area before painting with this. How many coats do you normally use before top coating? Any other advise when using it?

As with any applied product, it is 90% preperation and 10% application. The only thing I used it for is my Fenton Headers, I first baked them in an oven at 500 degrees for 30 minutes, let them cool and applied the Por-15 for exhaust, when it was still tacky, I applied the second coat, I let them dry for 2 days and baked them in the oven again at 500 for an hour. After a year of daily use, they still look like I put in on yesterday.

I've used POR products extensively throughout out my build.
Remember POR stands for paint over rust.
As Steve(ole5ogmc) mentions preparation is the key(pun intended)
Thankfully my chassis and cab underside were in pretty good shape,with just a light coating of rust.
I've single coated my chassis and underside of the cab,without a top coat as I have no intentions of the sun seeing the underside.
(It has UV sensitivity)
I had my headers sand blasted before I painted them,and the engine was steam cleaned thoroughly before I painted it.
I've brush painted rather than sprayed and the finish is excellent.

Stick with the POR instructions and it's hard to go wrong.
I'm really pleased with the results.

Oh and DON'T forget the gloves!

Did the chassis and several other pieces with POR and I'm pleased with it. Metal must be clean. I like it.

I hear you about the gloves. My right hand is salt and pepper colored. Even the laquer thinner doesn't help after a short period of time. If it's alright to use on the engine it must be heat resistant???

There is a specific POR-15 paint intended for engines as there is for headers POR-20 .
I used Chevy Orange for the block,other colours are available.
Here's how they look. Picture .

Good info. Thanks.

Zero rust does pretty good too. I think the best bang for the buck is Rustoleum it is an alkyd enamel, and actually is pretty hard stuff too. And a UV protectant can be added to it.

Plan on using what is in the can if you will be storing it for a while. Even a little air with turn your leftover paint into iron. Seal the can with some plastic wrap or the lid will be welded on. Otherwise, this tuff is great! Tuff as nails and easy to apply.

next time I use por15 I'm going to drill me hole in the center of the can, mabye a 1/4" and pour it out as I need it..... then stick a piece of duct tape back over it to keep the air out....Some other bolter suggested this a while back. I have a pint size can of it I think I'll try it on.

Same here, It is a great product, But the contents in an opened can can harden on you, I wipe the surface clean then put on the lid, Then put a zip lock bag over the can when i'm done. Seems to work.

Can you get you local paint shop to put it in an aerosol can? My local shop can do the same for Mar-hyde as well. They are pretty similar products.

I POR-15'd the frame and under side of the cab on my 39 Pickup over 10 years ago.. it still looks like new, except where I scratched it all up.

I spent several days cleaning the frame with a wire wheel, then used oven cleaner and finished with a power washer.

Are there other suggested ways to prep surface rusted metal prior to application other than oven cleaner...once the surface has been sufficiently brushed or wire wheeled?