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| | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 36 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 36 | Just how difficult is it to replace the rear main seal in a 283 engine? I want to replace top and bottom. Is it possible to replace with engine in vehicle and all the running bolted on? I know the pan the oil pump and rear main cap need to be removed. Some advice and instruction past that point would appreciated. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | I am going to guess that it isn't a whole lot different than the six as far as this goes. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 1,094 | Look in a motors or chiltons book it will be described in full detail. If it is a lip seal you just drive it around the crank with a careful hand,and when enough comes around the other side a pair of pliers will get it the rest of the way out.
Tommy
59 apache 1/2t
261 short stepside
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 36 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 36 | I was hoping to get some help from someone who has actually done it. Is there anyone out there who has. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 1,971 | In my experience, I would take the engine out to work on it rather than crawl under the truck and do it on my back.
In the end I don't think it is any less work to pull the engine than to constantly get up and down and crawling around underneath. It is certainly less frustrating.
If it is a rope seal, I don't think I would want to try to remove and replace it from under the truck. But, that's me. | | |
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