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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 132 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2009 Posts: 132 | I'm working on a '39 3/4 ton. I just put the cab on the completed chassis. I am in the process of dismantling the bed for paint. At some point, some one (probably Jackson County, Oregon) replaced the bed mount wood blocks with steel. I am considering going back to the wood blocks. Does anyone know the proper height of the blocks?
Thanks,
Gary | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Not sure on your 3/4 ton model but if I remember correctly my 37 1/2 ton were 2 1/4" high. Probably not the same as yours but then maybe? Do you think the metal blocks were made the same height as the wooden ones they replaced??
Hang in here. I'm sure someone will know the correct answer. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 | If i remember right, I used 2" square tubing with rubber pads instead of wood blocks. Got thinking about the blocks shrinking/cracking out in the future which in combination with the long bolts used would result in a loose bed and the bed being able to shift.
Just my 2 cents anyway. | | | | | Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2004 Posts: 1,312 | On my '40 1/2 ton, I bought new blocks from Jim Carter truck parts - like Alvin says, I think they were about 2 1/4", and I added a 1/4" thick rubber pad on the bottom. | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 132 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2009 Posts: 132 | The metal blocks are probably close to correct, but there are no rubber pads, and I want to add that. I am a little concerned about getting every thing the right height so the fenders and running boards match up at least closely. I have not measured the metal blocks, but will. 2 1/4" sounds close.
I think the truck was altered from the git-go by the local county. They used heavier cross-beams for the bed, and added a diamond plate floor, and a quite good-wrap around bumper. I suspect the metal bed blocks were added at the same time...but one was missing. Curious.
I'm in the process of dismantling the bed. I will replace the wood under the diamond plate, but keep the plate, and the bumper.
I have had the truck for 50 years, so there probably was not much done to/with it between the county and my ownership.
If anyone has a new wood block around, I would appreciate it if you could measure it.
Thanks,
Gary | | | | | Joined: May 2009 Posts: 132 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2009 Posts: 132 | I just found a thread on "Bed Mounting Blocks." The suggested dimension is 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 x 2 1/4. That sounds about right. The following site/thread gives instuctions and parts for bed mounting. It's a bit later model pickup, but should be close enough for government work. Also, the instructions do include and isolation pad between the frame and bed block. I'm using belting that's about 3/8", and will continue with that. It should be close enough to the cab height. I probably will re-use the metal blocks in place of the wood. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/articles/TIPS/ChevTruckTIPS/Tip103A.pdfThanks all, Gary | | |
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