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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,088 Posts1,056,109 Members48,434 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 17 | I got a new heater control valve from Danchuk. Close, but it has a different size tube to connect to the heater core. Has anybody found a way to deal with this? Is there some kind of special hose for this? This isn't an area where I want to chance a leak. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2005 Posts: 2,557 | what year and model of truck are you working on ? 1951 3100 Chevrolet1951 Chevrolet Suburban CarryallImage"A house is built with boards and beams. A home is built with love and dreams." "Look deep before you leap !!!" / "Everything is Everything" "If I say a mouse can pull a house, hitch him up"
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2006 Posts: 679 | I ordered a HCV for "55 - 57, will also fit 58 - 50." Yeah, it FIT, but the nipples weren't like my original. It leaked before the year was out. The way I recommend dealing with your problem is to return it for a refund.
I don't remember having a problem between the valve and the core. I was able to get that little hose (IIRC) from an aftermarket supplier.
But to answer your question regarding how I compensated for the difference, I jerry-rigged it by getting an adapter and a couple of hose clamps for each side of the HCV. I don't exactly remember the sizes involved, but (for example) I attached a 5/8 hose at the HCV and ran it out the firewall, then clamped on a 5/8-to-3/4 adapter, then ran the 3/4 hose to the water pump.
It looked like crap but was functional...until it leaked in the cab. Then I cut the hoses at the firewall and put in a loop at the water pump. I'll replace the HCV with my original one after rebuilding it.
Good luck!
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 17 | what year and model of truck are you working on ? Sorry, I forgot to mention. It's a '57 with deluxe heater, so the valve to heater core connection are both inside the box. The original valve has 3/4" connections and the replacement has 5/8". Are there rebuild parts available for my original valve? Mine doesn't have "Ranco" stamped on it anywhere. I guess I could also try to solder a 3/4" nipple over the 5/8" nipple on the replacement valve. What happened to TxLaTx is exactly what I'm worried about. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | the RANCO that's commonly around repro is actually for the 5-7 car which has the different size fittings .... repair kit from NAPA for either is: Napa/Balkamp #BK660-1000 which is the seal, usually the problem
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 17 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 17 | OK, thanks. I'm going to get a seal kit and try it on my old valve. I also did some more checking and found the Gates 20662 hose. It's a 5/8"x3/4" bypass hose that looks like it will take care of the problem of different connection sizes between the heater core and replacement valves.
Last edited by Kojack; 02/18/2011 3:53 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | Kojack, to save yourself some questions later on please know that a couple bolters have documented their works. If you do a search on Ranco Valve your bound to find Denny Grahams and Czechman's documentation. Its good reading. I have a few pics in my photo bucket if you want to look. There is a "tat" bit of difference but you can do it. I know you can!! | | |
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