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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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| | | | Joined: May 2010 Posts: 32 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: May 2010 Posts: 32 | does any know how to remove the top roof to repair inside roof | | | | | Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Jul 2001 Posts: 3,887 | sawzall? big angle grinder? cutting torch? the inner and outer roof stampings are crimped/spot welded all the way around with the drip rail in the sandwich, you're pretty much stuck with repairing any part of it in place unless you're good enough at body work to cut a section out and replace it .... next choice is replacing the cab with better if it's really messed up
Bill | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Drilling out the countless factory spot-welds, around the perimeter of the top, in the drip rail, will seperate the inner & outer roof skins, without damaging either one, beyond repair. Patience & a good spot-weld cutter or 1/4" drill bits, will do the job. Begin by removing the factory seam sill in the drip rail, thus allowing the factory spot-welds, to be exposed. Each spot-weld should be hit with a center punch, to eliminate the bit or cutter from wandering. I prefer a spot-weld cutter, so you have a good backup when reinstalling the top cap. Since both sides of the drip rail are accessible, drilling all the way through both panels, will not be difficult to weld back together, with a good, copper heat-sink, to back up the welds.
Last edited by 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks; 02/09/2011 7:21 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I replace the whole roof assembly with a good one on my 63...
Scott | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | sounds easier than splitting the roof. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 1,552 | Is sounds easy, until welding a few feet of sheetmetal and top-dressing the welds, suitable for prep, prime & paint. Puddle-welds in the drip rail are much more forgiving, when it comes to the final product. To each, their own. From my personal experience replacing the outer skin of the roof cap, is easier & more forgiving, than an upper half. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 2,384 | I'd recommend drilling the spot welds to remove the top skin, then glue it back on using panel-bond epoxy. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 235 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 235 | I did mine and it was not bad at all. Well worth the time and energy to get in there and take care of all the crap and rust that is hidden in there. | | |
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