The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
2 members (Hotrod Lincoln, klhansen), 119 guests, and 2 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,127
Posts1,056,357
Members48,441
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
#719510 02/09/2011 3:42 AM
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 32
G
New Guy
New Guy
G Offline
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 32
does any know how to remove the top roof to repair inside roof

gregory #719512 02/09/2011 3:48 AM
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
S
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
S Offline
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,887
sawzall? big angle grinder? cutting torch? the inner and outer roof stampings are crimped/spot welded all the way around with the drip rail in the sandwich, you're pretty much stuck with repairing any part of it in place unless you're good enough at body work to cut a section out and replace it .... next choice is replacing the cab with better if it's really messed up

Bill


Moved over to the Passing Lane

"When we tug a single thing in nature we find it attached to the rest of the world" John Muir
"When we tug a single thing on an old truck, we find it falls off" me
Some TF series details & TF heater pics & Rust-a-holics Unanimous parking lot
squeeze #719558 02/09/2011 7:20 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
Drilling out the countless factory spot-welds, around the perimeter of the top, in the drip rail, will seperate the inner & outer roof skins, without damaging either one, beyond repair. Patience & a good spot-weld cutter or 1/4" drill bits, will do the job. Begin by removing the factory seam sill in the drip rail, thus allowing the factory spot-welds, to be exposed. Each spot-weld should be hit with a center punch, to eliminate the bit or cutter from wandering. I prefer a spot-weld cutter, so you have a good backup when reinstalling the top cap. Since both sides of the drip rail are accessible, drilling all the way through both panels, will not be difficult to weld back together, with a good, copper heat-sink, to back up the welds.

Last edited by 4-5-6 Chevy Trucks; 02/09/2011 7:21 AM.
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I replace the whole roof assembly with a good one on my 63...
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
G Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
sounds easier than splitting the roof.

gazim #720113 02/11/2011 7:19 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
4
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
4 Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,552
Is sounds easy, until welding a few feet of sheetmetal and top-dressing the welds, suitable for prep, prime & paint. Puddle-welds in the drip rail are much more forgiving, when it comes to the final product. To each, their own. From my personal experience replacing the outer skin of the roof cap, is easier & more forgiving, than an upper half.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
6 Offline
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,384
I'd recommend drilling the spot welds to remove the top skin, then glue it back on using panel-bond epoxy.


My \'64\'s in the Gallery
Pictures in my Photobucket
1964 C10 Custom Cab 350/700R4
1964 Suburban 350/700R4
1979 Ford F350 4x4 400/c6
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 235
B
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
B Offline
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 235
I did mine and it was not bad at all. Well worth the time and energy to get in there and take care of all the crap and rust that is hidden in there.


Moderated by  Hambone, Woogeroo 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0