The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline What to grab for T5.

Finally, I've found an '88 S10 2.8L/T5 combo has about 150k miles on it. I'm want the T5 for either '53BelAir or '54 3100 and behind either a 235 or a SBC. So, besides the transmission, what else should I grab or should I just add another $200 and get the whole thing (eng-trans complete w/harness).
Tanks

Edit: Well, if just for the T5, from reading Tech, I can't use the flywheel/clutchpack/bellhousing with either of my engines. I don't need the 2.8 so just the trans should do.

Edit: Oh, should I grab the driveline it's a 2pc? Is it hard to find a slip shaft to fit into the trans?

for $200 you should grab the whole thing. you can get most of it back at the scrap yard and you won't have to worry about tracking down that piece you should have got.

Also grab a copy of the new custom classic truck magazine with the champagne story on the cover. good article on the T-5.

The 1988 t5 will most likely have the electronic speedometer and not the mechanical cable type.They sell a kit that will work with the electric to mechanical speedometer.I believe the tail shaft housing and gear can be swapped from a mechanical to electric .
t5 information

Tim

Thanks guys. Well, I got it. It's a 13-52-145; off the Brittish V8 site it's a 1985-86, has mechanical speedometer port and the gears are 3.78, 2.18, 1.42, 1, 0.72. When combined with my Nova 8" 3.08:1 rear with 235/75R15's the first 3 gears should give an rpm-mph curve that's almost the same as stock then I get to use 4th & 5th. Now, I have to go through it; I couldn't pop the top off but it shifted OK as I turned the shafts by hand; BUT the input shaft had side-to-side play. The 2.8 had a blown rear main so the "new" clutch was saturated and I didn't think the PP would fit on a 235 flywheel. I didn't grab the drive line because it was a 2pc w/carrier and all still bolted to the rig.
What do you think? Will I have trouble finding the clutch end and a slip yoke?

I had to change the input shaft seal on mine. mine has 2.73 gears and it is a little low numerically. i have the same tires as yours. i have driven it to Kansas City twice and i average over 20 mpg but around town i only get between 12-14 mpg but i does well in traffic.

Thanks for sharing your experience, it's very encouraging. After all of my number crunching I realized "oh yea, the T5/3.08 were in many vehicles, of course it'll work". Now that I've got most of the big stuff all I need is a driveline and I can start to assemble.

You have the best one for swaps with the 1352-145. They are hard to take the cover off to examine but generally they are in pretty good shape. You can pull the front retainer off & examine the front brg. If it is OK you add shims behind the race to adjust the play. You will need to remove it anyhow if you are going to cut it back to fit & replace the seal. Don't try to pull the front shaft out or allow it to come forward. You can use your clutch pressure plate & get an Astro disc or have one made up at a clutch shop. Your driveshaft yoke will probably fit but you will probably have to have the drive shaft shortened. 3.08 will work good with it if you have a strong v-8 engine, but you can't hod rod it as those trans. are not that stout.

The 13-52-145 is what I have in my pickup and suburban.I just picked up an extra one that I'm going to try to rebuild myself sometime soon.I think you will be happy with it.


Tim

Thanks Guys, your making me feel really good for waiting so long for this transmission; they don't show up often around here. I plan to use it in my '54 3100 behind the original engine. The wife likes the three-on-the-tree but when she tires of it/wears it out the T5 will be ready to put in. Do you know what salvage-yard drive-line will be a near fit?

I had both my drive shafts made by drive shaft builders,so I really don't know.The five speed is way more fun to drive.


Tim

i am trying to find out the same thing. when you bolt up the T5 to the 235 how does the clutch work. will the originl still work or do you have to go with a hydro?
another question will the original foot starter work with a T5?

How the clutch works is dependent on the bell housing. If you are using the original bell housing then the clutch and starter will still work the same. I just don't know if you can use the original bell housing or not.

You use the same bell houseing, clutch linkage, & foot starter.You will need a different clutch disc. There are minor modifications to the front of the trans.

wrenchbender you sound like you might have some expertise in this area. what exactly has to be done to it?

DADS53 I really hate to play the Devil's Advocate but setting up a 1352-145 (.72 OD) with a 3.08 diff isn't going to work. That's the identical combo I was told would work with my 235, and despite my gut feeling that the info was BAD......I picked up an IROC Z 3.08 posi/disc which I modified and installed and it worked great...... as a 4 speed, but you couldn't get it to pull in 5th gear until you were at nearly 70 mph. I finally went with a 3.42 88 Camaro diff which is better: cruise at 70 mph is now at 2000 rpms and you can drop down to 45-50 and accelerate back up without a downshift. The 235 makes good torque down at the 1500-2000 rpm range but you'll get better engine efficiency/performance if you're geared to normally cruise at 2100-2300 rpms. That would calculate to running a 3.73 R&P. I've gone over a lot of the install info in my Webshots "Shoebox" and "Tips and Tricks" albums. Try plugging your numbers into this rpm calculator and remember that 2000-2300 is going to be optimal and you'll still have plenty of throttle left if you need it!!!!

http://csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html

Granted the 3.08 will work okay with the .86 t5 from behind the 4 cylinders, but the 4.03 1st gear makes it about worthless. Having to short-shift out of 1st gear in the first 20 feet just doesn't cut it unless you're pulling a trailer.

BTW....I've got close to 15,000 miles on my 54 truck.....it has performed flawlessly and I would not hesitate to drive it across the country without a concern. Getting good information is critical to a successful build. Part of using the internet as a resource is being able to trust the information that is offered and to be able to distinguish between that info that is seriously flawed.

Dave

There is good info in the Tech tips. You have to drill the mounting holes out to 1/2 in. Very easy being the case is aluminum & the holes are almost that size. You need to cut the end of the input shaft to the length of the old one. I use an air cutoff grinder. You need to cut the front of the front retainer down to the size of the old one. Remove it & use a hacksaw.
I agree a 6 cyl. with 3.08 rear gears will not pull in o-drive.

1.You will need to drill out the transmission mounting holes(4) with a 1/2" drill bit.

2.Cut the tip of the transmission input pilot shaft down"I believe 1/2" " be sure to measure your original one.

3.The clutch gear bearing retainer will need shortened to the length of the original one.I believe it will be about 1 1/4" cut off of the retainer"the place where the throwout bearing rides".Be sure to do your own measuring and comparing.

4.you will have to extend the splines on the input shaft about 1/4" to 3/8" longer.I used a hand held die grinder to do mine.

The non-world class t-5 will have a 14 spline input shaft.This means you will need a 14 spline clutch disc and use the original style pressure plate.Measure your original clutch disc and I'm sure we can come up with a part number for the new clutch disc.

You will use the original bellhousing and clutch linkage with this swap.The only thing different will be the t-5 and the clutch disc.

I wouldn't use the 3:08,the 235 will struggle with it.I'm thinking 3:55 or 3:73 ring and pinion gears will be what you want.I have a 3:90 in my suburban,but it's a tank and a 3:73 in my truck.Make sure you read about the proper pinion angle setup .

You will need to have a drive shaft built for it,and you will need to measure for it correctly.


Tim

is the only reason you have to swap the clutch discs because of the different number of splines on the input shaft?

What exactly do you mean by extending the splines on the input shaft about 1/4" to 3/8" longer?

on a different note does anyone know of any rear ends that are the same length and will fit under my chevy with a 5 lug pattern?

The splines is why you need to change the clutch disc,other wise it will not work.

If you are looking at the splines on the input shaft,they need to be cut further back towards the transmission"extended for the clutch disc to travel".

This link use to show a whole lot of possibilities of donor rear ends.Apparently The site was shut down due to billing problems.
rearend donors list
Does any stovebolters have this list copied,it's not available through the tech tips section any longer"link is not working".

Tim

i found a 91 s10 tranny today at the junk yard for 99.00. i am aware this year has alectronic speedo but since i have upgraded my guages to electronic and my truck has a 12 v system now this tranny should work perfect right? any advice. hope to hear soon im going back to pull it tomorrow

Will work fine with the proper modifications as described in these posts.

With the modifications it will work like wrenchbender stated.I'm not familiar with what is needed to go electronic.Is there some sort of computer brain needed for this conversion.We are treading the electrical forum now.


Tim

now that i have the tranny can anyone shed some light on how exactly to shorten the input shaft. i am aware that the Splines, the nipple on the end, and the bearing retainer must be shortened but how exactly should i go about it. i can use a cutoff wheel but past experiences would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys.

I used a hand held die grinder"cut off tool".

Look at the old transmission input shaft, measure the length of the nipple. Cut the new one to the same size. Do the same for the bearing retainer. Remember measure twice cut once. Measure the length of the splines on the input shaft and use a grinder to extend them further if needed, a dremel tool would work. As for cutting the shaft and retainer a cutoff tool would work, just measure carefully and cut staight.

when you say extend the splines on the input shaft you infact mean to grind them back correct?

Yes, compare them against the old transmission and see how long they are. You may have to grind them back a little. The clutch hub slides on the splines and if it can't go far enough back the clutch won't release completely. The clutch disk for the t5 is different than the original, it is a fine spline vs coarse on the old transmission.

You can remove the front retainer & cut it with a hacksaw. The best way to grind the splines is get the clutch disc you are going to use, slid it on the shaft till it stops & mark it. Then grind the splines about 1/2 in & test it with the disc. That is better then putting in the trans. & finding it still hangs up.

Hi Guys
One other question. If I want to line up all the parts required for the swap before taking my truck apart, is there any way to know the actual size of my clutch disc to get one made?
1949 GMC 3600 (Canadian built)
216 engine
4 speed trans

Thanks

I would think it's a 10 3/4",but you never know until you remove it.The parts store should be able to match one up to your original disc.Hear are some part numbers from napa.

T-5 clutch disc part numbers

9" disc is 4190

9 7/8" disc is 4201

11" disc is 4212

Tim

which Rear end are you going with. that is what im on the hunt for now. I would like to use a rear end about 60 inches wide so that i can offset the wheels and have a deep dish look. so here is the question. if i go with a rear end with disc brakes will i have to buy a booster and alot of other components to make the disc brake system work? i am running all original now. 4 wheel drum