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#703835 12/16/2010 3:41 AM
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Any suggestions on what type material to use for replacing the fuel line and brake lines on my 1952 GMC? Once I decide what material than I need help deciding what type fittings to use? Than I need help finding the right tools to bend and flare the tubing. Than where to buy it all at. This a tall order but it is very important. Thanks Guys

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Regular steel brake line will work just fine, or you could use the "easy bend" line that most parts sotres carry now. The "easy bend" line is color coded in an olive green, and can be bent without tools to a degree without kinking. You'll need standard double flare fittings, as well as a double flaring tool. You can get all of this from the local parts store, but you will need to measure the existing lines for lenght and diameter so that you get the correct abount. Best bet, if you're comfortable making the flares, would be to get a roll of line and make them up yourself rather than using lengths of line ans splicing.
Here's a vid I did showing how to make flares with the common flaring tool available at most parts stores. I will point out, I did make an error (which a couple of guys pointed out) in using a pair of vice grips to tighten the bar stock. That should only be habd tight, but my tool is very worn out, and wouldn't grip the line without the extra tightening.


Bill Burmeister
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I like copper-nickel line, it is very easy to work with and won't rust. I have some for sale, and stainless tube nuts too.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=669101#Post669101

No matter what kind of line you use you'll get the best results with a good bending tool and a quality double flare tool set. I've tried numerous kinds and it pretty much comes down to you get what you pay for, absolutely true on the flaring kit.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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You should be able to get a complete brake line kit from www.brotherstrucks.com or other suppliers.. You can use brake line from your FLAPS, they have it up to 25' rolls or 8-12-20-30-51-60-72 inch length and use compression fittings and fuel line hose for transitions.

Last edited by WE b OLD; 12/16/2010 9:59 PM.

Ron, The Computer Greek
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Originally Posted by WE b OLD
... You can use brake line from your FLAPS, they have it up to 25" rolls or 8-12-20-30-51-60-72 inch length and use compression fittings and fuel line hose for transitions.

Compression fittings and brake lines don't go together in the same sentence; it is not legal to use compression fittings for hydraulic brake plumbing.
Did you mean to say a double flared end on the tube and the proper tube nuts, that's the legal and safe way to connect brake lines?

For fuel line you could use 5/16" or 3/8" steel line from your FLAPS and bead and slip rubber hose on the ends if you want. Can also double flare and use fittings just the same.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
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From one who has been there forget the double flaring UNLESS you have a nice hydralic type. Even when new the "mechanical" ones are just not up to snuff. I've used them, and had sucess, but man what a job! A nice hydralic one will run you just under $300 bucks and for that kind of money you can do a lot of other things. Wibas could order his complete set pre-bent for that!

I lucked out and found a member of our car club that had a hydralic set and man, what a dream. He can make just about any kind you need.... of coarse this was AFTER I had did mine but since I was not happy with a "couple" of my flares he came by and re-made my tranny lines and power steering lines in a matter of minutes.... I bought my line in a coil. If I remember it was about $30-35 for a roll of 25' for 5/16 or 3/8. I also used it for my gas.

Don't take ANY chances on brakes as Grigg mentioned.


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Originally Posted by Achipmunk
Don't take ANY chances on brakes as Grigg mentioned.
Yep, good flare tools are expensive, but You can buy a nice old style one for around 100 that will do anything you'd need but stainless, I have one made by Imperial that is OK. Have some of the cheap line Of OTC that I won't use, they sent a replacement and I never unwrapped it..
The one I really like is made by http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/
here's a catalog http://sykes-pickavant.com.dnnmax.c...20-%20Brake%20Pipe%20Flaring%20Tools.pdf

One chance I wouldn't take is single flares. Always use double flares on 45* flared brake lines, the reason is to lessen the chance of the flare splitting and leaking later on.

Grigg


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
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I used Inline Tube to replace all my brake lines and fuel lines. They are prebent and fit great. http://www.inlinetube.com/

I did have to buy the fasteners seperate but inline sells them also.


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I do not recommend compression for brake lines but they are bought and used all the time. i work at a flaps and it is done all the time. i was recommending use of the compression fittings on the fuel lines only.


Ron, The Computer Greek
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I just got some copper/nickle brake lines from Grigg,the stuff was easy to bend and flare.He has sizes that will work for fuel lines and you never have to worry about corrosion and the lines look great!

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Originally Posted by Achipmunk
From one who has been there forget the double flaring UNLESS you have a nice hydralic type
Hydraulic flaring tool. Yes, they are very nice. I don't even use the old style anymore, last time I used it was to make the flaring video. The hydraulic one is faster, easier, and makes better quality flares. The set I have (mine came from Snap-On) also does ISO "bubble" flares found on most late models, as well as the push connect (GM and Ford style) fittings. I don't have the dies for them, but there is also a kit for doung the 37 degree flars, too.


Bill Burmeister

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