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#703703 12/15/2010 4:39 PM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 84
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 84
Howdy:
Just wanted to see if I'm thinking straight. I wanted to put a open driveline in my '53 3100. Can I buy a open drive carrier and use it in my current torque tube axle? Also, I would like to lower the rear of the truck 2-4 inches. Can I do this with the open driveline buy using blocks and mounting the new open drive axle on top of the springs? I would like to cut off the spring saddles on the old torque tube axle rather than weld them. Then, I would weld on new saddles. I just wondered if it was a problem mounting the axle on top of the springs instead of below. This way it would be easier to lower...right? Let me know.


Thanks,

Craig


1953 3100 | 1958 3/4-ton NAPCO
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
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Yes you can put an open driveline in. Pull the rear cover, take out the bolt holding in the "spider gears", push in on the axles to get the "C" retaining clips off the end of the axle and pull the axles out. Take all the bolts from around the center section and remove the torque tube assembly. I'm taking into account you have it loose from the tranny!

For my 1952 1/2 ton PANEL I used a 56 rear pumpkin so I went from a 4:11 gear to a 3:90...not much gain but better!
You can find later models, up through 62 or maybe later, that will bolt right in and you can use your same axles.

I cut off the old stuff and used a set of dodge perch blocks. About 10 bucks at the dealer for a set. Then I used 2" lowering blocks. You can get a set of lowering blocks with the U-bolts at Advance Auto and probably the other stores.
Good luck. Not a hard job but I do wish I had looked around for a later model with a higher gear.

Be sure to set the pinion angle before welding the perch blocks.


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Achipmunk is dead on. Another bolter was looking for a 3rd member to put in his rearend as well. I thought the Ad trucks were already axle over spring, so there should be enough room to drop it a couple inches. 3.90 gears are great with an OD.

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Early next year the 9" thats installed in my '51 GMC is going up for sale. Rebuilt with new 3.50 gears, tracloc, aftermarket 31 spline axles. About 2000 miles on the axle since rebuilt.

Need to upgrade to a dana 60 with 35 spline axles....

Last edited by efi-diy; 12/17/2010 3:43 PM.
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Originally Posted by efi-diy
Need to upgrade to a dana 60 with 35 spline axles....


What engine/ transmission combo do you have that makes a 9 inch too weak?

I have a full floating 9 inch for my 1940 GMC, and one installed in my 1959 GMC. Both rears are set up for 31 spline axles. The full floating 9 uses a hub to carry the weight of the vehicle. The axle, which is splined on both sides transmists the torque. This is an extremely robust setup for a pickup. In my 1959, this setup is sitting behind a big v8 and a 5 speed transmission. I sought out the full floating 9 because there were many parts available for the 9 inches, I could get a new one made however wide I wanted, It already came with disc brakes, and I was able to keep the stock 6 lug configuration.

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Where did you get it??

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Originally Posted by gazim
Where did you get it??

I got both of them from shreiner enterprises. The webpage is http://9inchfloater.com/. Not the cheapest axle around, but not to expensive either. I was able to spec out width, tube thickness, axle splines, disc size and lug pattern. I was also able to chose between countless gearsets and posi combinations. These axles come standard with 1/2 inch wheel studs. I was able to pay a few dollars more to use 7/16 studs like the stock axle. This actually ended up saving me money because I would have spent more on new lugnuts for my after market rims


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