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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 83
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 83
Hi all,
My 1948 Chevy "Thriftmaster" PU has been in the family since 74 and I restored it in high-school in 1983/84. Recently it refuses to start when cold with-out the use of starting fluid. Once it warms up, it will start right up. The other thing I've noticed is that if it is on a flat idle, warmed up or cold, and you stomp on it, it caoughs and sometimes even back fires and tries to stall, but if you get it up off idle just a tad, and mash it, it revs right up. The only thing I can tell is different is the exh donut is leaking a bit recently. It is a 235 bored .040 over all stock cam, manifolds, and a one-barrel rochester manual choke carb. The vacuum advance seems to be working correctly, and I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks. Please help me figure this out, as she is my alternate daily driver, and just pulled my 66 Datsun with over 3500# of parts spread between the chevy and the datsun from San Diego to Seattle averaging 55-60 mph (except the mountains) getting an average 10mpg and it's all factory brakes etc....
Well thanks in advance for the help!!
Garry


Garry K in Pac Nor West
1948 Chevy PU 235 SM420 4 spd
1932 **** B pu
1964 Datsun 4x4 with SBC, SM465 4spd and Rockwell xfer Dana 44Fr and 12 Bolt Rr.
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 2,074
Sounds like time to put a kit in that carb, accelerator pump is probably shot. Look inside the carb while you yank on the throttle, should squirt some gas. May also be time for a complete tune up, go by the book and you'll be in good shape.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
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Posts: 988
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
B Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 988
I am with JiMerit rebuild the carb and go thru a tune up.


Brian Moore
1949 3100 5 window Deluxe
"Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow"
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
4
Extreme Gabster
Extreme Gabster
4 Offline
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,458
Check your valve adjustment and timing/point dwell and spark plug gap first.


Paint & Body Shop moderator
A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic.
Joined: Dec 2001
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T
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,745
Make sure the vacuum advance moves the distributor when you touch the throttle (engine running). Does the distributor turn easily by hand and does it return to the original spot? (not running).


54 3100 with 235
62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9
T
Member
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T Offline
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9
The first thing I would do is run a compression test on all the cylinders. If they all show good compression then you know it's a tune-up matter.Good luck.

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 438
5
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 438
GarryK and THEWRENCH-

Welcome to the Stovebolt. More Washingtonians is good, we gotta stick together!

Garry-I'm with JiMerit on the full tune, suspecting the carb. Other indications are worth the look as you go through the engine. If the truck sits more than runs, the carb can get gummed up pretty easily.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
grin
I'm not sure what kind of exhaust you've got there, but if it's Fenton headers and you've no heat supply to the intake, you really need that. It won't help it start easier, but as soon as it is running, it helps a bunch to keep it running.


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My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.
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