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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,113 Posts1,056,279 Members48,439 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 83 | Hi all, My 1948 Chevy "Thriftmaster" PU has been in the family since 74 and I restored it in high-school in 1983/84. Recently it refuses to start when cold with-out the use of starting fluid. Once it warms up, it will start right up. The other thing I've noticed is that if it is on a flat idle, warmed up or cold, and you stomp on it, it caoughs and sometimes even back fires and tries to stall, but if you get it up off idle just a tad, and mash it, it revs right up. The only thing I can tell is different is the exh donut is leaking a bit recently. It is a 235 bored .040 over all stock cam, manifolds, and a one-barrel rochester manual choke carb. The vacuum advance seems to be working correctly, and I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks. Please help me figure this out, as she is my alternate daily driver, and just pulled my 66 Datsun with over 3500# of parts spread between the chevy and the datsun from San Diego to Seattle averaging 55-60 mph (except the mountains) getting an average 10mpg and it's all factory brakes etc.... Well thanks in advance for the help!! Garry
Garry K in Pac Nor West 1948 Chevy PU 235 SM420 4 spd 1932 **** B pu 1964 Datsun 4x4 with SBC, SM465 4spd and Rockwell xfer Dana 44Fr and 12 Bolt Rr.
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2000 Posts: 2,074 | Sounds like time to put a kit in that carb, accelerator pump is probably shot. Look inside the carb while you yank on the throttle, should squirt some gas. May also be time for a complete tune up, go by the book and you'll be in good shape. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 988 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 988 | I am with JiMerit rebuild the carb and go thru a tune up.
Brian Moore 1949 3100 5 window Deluxe "Today is better than yesterday, but not as good as tomorrow" | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Check your valve adjustment and timing/point dwell and spark plug gap first.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 Member | | Member Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 1,745 | Make sure the vacuum advance moves the distributor when you touch the throttle (engine running). Does the distributor turn easily by hand and does it return to the original spot? (not running).
54 3100 with 235 62 flatbed dump C60 with 261
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 9 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 9 | The first thing I would do is run a compression test on all the cylinders. If they all show good compression then you know it's a tune-up matter.Good luck. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 438 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2002 Posts: 438 | GarryK and THEWRENCH-
Welcome to the Stovebolt. More Washingtonians is good, we gotta stick together!
Garry-I'm with JiMerit on the full tune, suspecting the carb. Other indications are worth the look as you go through the engine. If the truck sits more than runs, the carb can get gummed up pretty easily. | | |
#7027 03/04/2004 10:58 PM | Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,820 | I'm not sure what kind of exhaust you've got there, but if it's Fenton headers and you've no heat supply to the intake, you really need that. It won't help it start easier, but as soon as it is running, it helps a bunch to keep it running.
"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!" My name is Joe and I am addicted to Classic Country Music. I just can't hep myself.Operators are standing by to take your calls! Now cruising in the Passing Lane | | |
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