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| | | Forums66 Topics128,100 Posts1,056,510 Members48,448 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 15 | I had the oil changed in my 72 today. I was planning to go with Valvoline Synthetic, but the manager told me it was "too old for sythetic." I didn't push the issue as I have no issue with conventional Valvoline but afterward I got to wondering if I'm missing something. I understood that the sythentics were fine for older engines.
Any thoughts?
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 9,671 | Yep, no reason synthetic isn't gonna help reduce wear in an older engine as well as a new one. Now if your '72 is gulping oil then you would be better off staying with the cheaper oil. Just how old was that "manager"? Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
Denny G Sandwich, IL
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 1,262 | Based on all the reading I did on the subject before I made the switch to Mobil 1 synthetic about 7 years ago you should break a new or rebuilt engine in using conventional motor oil and then switch to synthetic after break in.
I am running synthetic in my 350 cu in. Gen 1 non roller cam Chevy V-8's, I have 3, and in my 1985 5.0 HO roller cam Ford.
No problems to report.
Last edited by Hot Rod John; 12/05/2010 2:51 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 15 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Nov 2010 Posts: 15 | Yep, no reason synthetic isn't gonna help reduce wear in an older engine as well as a new one. Now if your '72 is gulping oil then you would be better off staying with the cheaper oil. Just how old was that "manager"? Denny Graham Sandwich, IL The "manager" was a young guy to me, but not a wet-behind-the-ears kid. Everything else we talked about made perfect sense to me. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | I had my engine completely redone in 2006 and the mechanic that did the work said to use regular oil until i got some miles on it. i waited until i had 5000 miles then changed to synthetic at his advice before my trip to KC.
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 67 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 67 | I have a 1956 235 straight 6 in my 1949 chevy truck and I was told to only run nondetergent 30 weight and clean with kerosene every couple of oil changes. I would like to run synthetic but was told the old motors don't like it.
What do you think about the Z-ALT additive? Snake oil or is it good for my motor? | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I have a 1956 235 straight 6 in my 1949 chevy truck and I was told to only run nondetergent 30 weight and clean with kerosene every couple of oil changes. I would like to run synthetic but was told the old motors don't like it.
What do you think about the Z-ALT additive? Snake oil or is it good for my motor? Someone gave you some very incorrect information. Detergent oil and synthetics will be just fine in your engine. Leave the nondetergent for the air compressor or lawn mower. As far as the additive, snake oil. Just use a known quality motor oil, I use Valvoline myself, and you'll be fine. Most of the cam/lifter problems come from poor break in procedures, incorrect assembly, or improperly matched/poor quality parts.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 4,962 | I run Mobil 1 15W50 in everything from lawnmowers to old tractors. I like the fact that synthetic oil can stand extended drain periods. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 499 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2000 Posts: 499 | >>clean with kerosene every couple of oil changes<< What did they want you to clean, the paint off of it? If you want the inside of the engine to stay clean, hook up a good PCV system and change the oil on a regular basis. I use 30w nondetergent in the compressor, but 5-30 or 10-30 in the mower. My 292 gets Mobil 1, 5-30 on a six year old build.
'67 GMC 3/4 292 4spd
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | I'm with Richard except for the 30w in the air compressor. It gets cold here and 10w suits it better. I have even been know to put used (but clean Mobil 1) oil in the mower. I can hear the outcry now! :>) | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 341 | Not too old. You are perfectly fine using a full synthetic oil except, as mentioned, for breaking in a rebuilt engine. High ZDDP synthetics are available for older and high performance engines. What do you think about the Z-ALT additive? Snake oil or is it good for my motor? As Bill mentioned...snake oil. Modern oils, especially synthetics, are precisely engineered with an additive package to handle specific applications. Supplementing with off the shelf additives adds unknown chemicals and can actually cause problems...particularly the ones that contain chlorine.
Allan ----- 1951 GMC 1/2-ton Two 1953 Chevy 3100 5-window | | |
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