The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Cam break-in procedure

Hi, I'm putting a new camshaft and lifters in my '58 235. The engine came out a car and had hydraulic lifters, so thats what I'm putting in. I got a camshaft from autozone (model #ccs-6) and got the lifters from Kanter. Heres what I plan to do, if you see anything wrong or have a recommendation, please say so. I've never done anything like this, and don't want to ruin the cam or lifters because of a stupid mistake. I also ordered new aluminum gears for the cam and crankshaft.

1) Heavily coat the camshaft lobes (bearings as well?) in Melling m-10012 assembly lube.
2) Install the camshaft in the block, carefully to avoid dragging it across the bearings.
3) Put assembly lube on the bottom of the lifters, install them in the block.
4) Install pushrods and rocker arms
5) Prime the oil pump with a drill
6) Set the valves by the guide in the tech tips (http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/valveadjustment.htm)
7) Pour in Rotella T 30W oil and Lucas break in oil (part # LUC 10063)
8) Hook up fuel lines, etc and get engine ready to run
9) Prime the oil pump again
10) Get the timing about right
11) Start the engine and immediately get it to 2,000 RPM
12) Run the engine for 25 minutes between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM
13) Put front sheet metal on and drive the wheels off it.

Is there anything I missed/overlooked?

Thanks

Sounds like ya got it pretty well covered, except making sure its full of water.
Enjoy it and drive it like ya stole it!!
Good luck!

I agree with Andy,also try and get your static timing as close as you can possibly get,and trust me, 25 minutes at 2 to 2500rpm on a fresh engine seems like an eternity!(Been there)

I'm sure you're obviously aware,this is absolutely essential to ensure proper work hardening of the cam lobes and lifters.

Finally.....Good luck and enjoy #13!

13) Put front sheet metal on and drive the wheels off it.

Fan shroud.

X2.

E.O.S..... deifinitely can't go wrong there. So its X3

Run it up to 2000 for 15 minutes, 2250 for 5 minutes and finish off with 5 minutes at 2500.

Keep a water hose handy to cool the radiator in case it gets hot.
Have a temporary good know oil pressure gauge where you can see it.

And never ever walk away from it!

I loaned out my test stand to a fellow to break in a new engine, he did all that I told him to do but add water. He added water but not enough, they fired it up and went inside for 20 minutes. It had stopped by the time they came back out. All the bearings were melted, crank was blue, pistons were melted and seized to the block, and even the cam gearings were melted. There was little balls of aluminum all over the bottom of the oil pan. The whole engine, including the heads were scrap!

ADD WATER !

Joe

Oh , And you might change the oil before you drive the wheels off it . The moly break in grease will plug a filter some.

I was originally going to use EOS, but I read online that they changed the formula a few years ago. I couldn't find anything conclusive whether or not it still had lots of zinc.



I will definitely change the oil afterward. I was planning on putting a bit (couple ounces) of the lucas break in oil with it with each oil change (Rotella T 30w), just to bump up the zinc. Would that be a good idea?

AND, you just made me remember a few questions I forgot.
I don't have an oil filter on the engine, should I install one before I break in the cam?

EDIT: Should I watch to make sure both the lifters and pushrods are spinning? I assume yes, but never can be too sure.

Its probably not necessary to watch the lifters or pushrods rotate, if its a new cam and lifters, there shouldn't be a problem.
It is also probably not necessary to add break in oil everytime you change oil, that could eventually wear bearings out faster.
Your break in period isn't very long, the filter addition I would do afterwards, no point ruining a new filter just on break in, change the oil hot and any debris will be suspended and will flush out just fine.
Joe makes a good point, don't leave it alone, and running a big fan in front of it would be a great idea.
Be careful spraying cold water on a hot rad, it could crack it, just use air flow if at all possible.
Have fun!

One more thing, you are using really soft valve springs compared to most modern engines. Its the heavy duty race springs that eat cams and lifters. A little Lucas at each oil change is all thats needed. Don't change out the break in oil to soon, get a good 100 miles or more out of it.

Joe

Sorry so long away. I would put a filter on it right away. As far as the pushrods spinning. As long as all the pushrods are straight and adjusted right they should spin. Did you get it fired up?