The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Pulling Engine

I am pulling the 283 out of my '66 and want to make sure I connect the chain to the correct bolt holes. Can someone help?
Also since the front clip is off, do I need to remove the transmission or will it slide out off the spline OK?
Thanks ahead of time.
GS

I've just used the 3/8" holes for your exhaust manifold bolts or you can buy a plate that bolts to the carb bolts. If you have the granny 4 speed or even the 3 speed stick I'd unbolt it from the bellhousing. I tried to pull the engine and trany from my 53 truck with the 4 speed attached and it hung on the crossmember.
And you are smart by having the front clip off, much easier.

You can use the head bolt hole for the alternator, there should be one in back also. The important thing is good bolts and using as much thread as possible. Have the bolt tight. I usually pull both engine and trans if the front is clear. Having the trans crossmember out does make it easier but not always nessesary. Good luck.

I like to unbolt it at the bellhousing & leave the bell & trans in. A small block with the ram horn manifolds balances out real good useing two bolts in the center of the manifolds. You need longer bolts though. The plate that mounts on the carb like previous mentioned is the best way. The discount tool places have them reasonably priced now.

In reference to Jim's comment about removing the tranny, here's what it looks like if you follow the shop manual for my '48 and pull the engine with the tranny attached. Not a good idea.

Pulling Engine w/Tranny Attached

And then the shop manual says to put the engine/tranny assembly on the engine stand. Huh??

An original '66 engine will probably not have accesory holes in the heads. I would unbolt trans. and use the ex.manifold bolt holes. Just be sure you get as much bolt into the holes as possible.

Removing the front clip and pulling the engine and tranny at the same time is the way to go, if it is an automatic. Mine tried to hang up on the tranny crossmeber, however I used my floor jack under the tranny tail shaft to help it over the crossmember. With a little patience and creativity, you can do it this way without much problem.

I did the same pulling the 283 from my 1966 Chevy C20. The clearance you have will save lots of frustration. Additionally, you can do it alone with an engine hoist with the front clip off. Also, with the front clip off, you can tidy things up a bit.

Front end with front clip removed

Front end painted with POR15 with front clip removed

Any method that has the chain attatched to the engine in two places sucks. Pick up an engine lift plate for around twenty bucks and save much hassle. When the chains is attached in just one place you can tilt, roll, spin, or move longitudally or laterally with ease. The plate will have several notches so you can have the desired angle. Speedway part #'s 910-89431 $18 or 910-89430 $11.

I always pull the engine seperate from the tranny. It's easier and less likely to get hurt with.

When working in the shop I found that way too many mechanics try to save themselves some work by not taking out a few extra bolts. They ended up working around objects that were attached and in their way. I was always done before them.

I have a plate that attaches to the carb studs-I regularly pull engines w/o even removing the hood using it. Anything you pull off is something you have to put back on. Brian