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| | | Forums66 Topics128,041 Posts1,055,479 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 | So last weekend we came accross a 1954 3100 for $400. All there down to the keys and sun visors, but no engine. Now we are wondering what engine to put back in it. The torque tube is there and the 3 speed on the tree is there just no bellhousing or engine. Was thinking of a mid '60's 283 or 250 from a '73 nova and I think with the right bell we can use the original trans. Want to keep it somewhat original but want it to be reliable. Any thoughts
....David
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 Riding in the Passing Lane | | Riding in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2004 Posts: 8,597 | The 250 would be a good choice as the V-8 has exhaust clearance problems. Most 55-72 V-8 or the 63-72 bell houseings will fit the 54 chassis & either v-8 or 63 up 6 cyl. engines. Some have a larger hole for the trans collar but most will fit your trans. They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne SuperIn the Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | They are only original when they come from the factory. Putting a later V8 or even a six doesn't make it "somewhat original".
I'd advise putting a 235 in it. It is just as "reliable" as the other engines you mentioned and is period correct. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2008 Posts: 3,750 | There seems to be a definate trend to keeping a six in the engine bay,and as Wrenchbender mentions there's a fair bit more work in installing a V8,the header/steering clearance is just one of the issues. Using a later 235 gives you the advantage of a full pressure oil system,and as Cletis mentions it's more in keeping with the 'original' look. Plus there's plenty of go faster goodies available if that's what floats your boat!
1950 Chevy Advance Design 3100 in ScotlandIn the Stovebolt GalleryMore pix on Flickr. I've definately got this truck thing in my blood ... my DNA sequence has torque settings"Of all the small nations of this earth,perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind" Winston Churchill.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | welcome to the Bolt 54barnfind. Yep, lots of opinions but its your truck and you get the final say. If its a good example of an original its usually nice to see them "saved". If you have a rust bucket that already has had lots of stuff done to it then have at it your way. Regardless, we're here to help good sound advice which has already been said. That said I'm partial to V8 in my previous rust buckets  | | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 474 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 474 | I like the sixs in the trucks seems they are the first to go .It just depends on what you are going to use it for ?I've learned the v8's are the first choice for the majority of people.If I drove it every day and out of town often I to would go for a old school v8.The power and torque make driving in modern traffic more enjoyable to me .Just my 2 cents as we all like what we like. check here for a engine https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=512127#Post512127
Last edited by webstershotrods; 11/01/2010 4:59 AM.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | I admire a truck with the original engine, but I'd never build one - they're far too slow for my taste. There is no amount of speed equipment (exception: blower, nitrous) that will produce the same power from a 235 as you already have in a stock 350. Adding carbs, split manifolds, etc. makes a hole in your wallet, and you still only have 200 hp. The narrowest V8 engines across the exhaust ports are Ford Windsor low deck (289, 302), which gives about 2" more clearance to the steering than a SBC. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | Hey Panic, are you suggesting he put a Ferd in his 'Bolt? That's sacrilegious man! A pox upon you! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 843 | Hey 54barnfind, even if you hot rod it you can always change your mind and go back. I did just that. In 1965 I found a complete, original, running '36 Chevy high cab pick up. Being a dumb 20 year old kid I put a hot rodded 283, B & M Hydrostick and '60 Chevy pickup rear end in it and drove it like that for about 50,000 trouble free miles. Later I decided to restore it. That was completed in time for the 1976 VCCA national meet in Colorado Springs. I drove it there from Southern California, lined it up with the trailer queens and got 1st in class T-2 ('29-'36 trucks). So my point is it's yours. Have at it. Have fun. You can always change your mind later. I still have that pickup.
Ray
Ray
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | That's sacrilegious man!
True, just pointing out that it's an easier swap. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 319 | Hey 54barnfind, A 250 is sweet.
cm If you can't fix it with a hammer and screwdriver, you need a bigger hammer.1965 Chevy C10 | | | | | Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2007 Posts: 328 | Hi All
I agree that you should match your usage to choice of power plant if modifying it....
For what it's worth I just put a Buick 455 big block in my 51 1/2 ton panel. Since I am also a Buick guy and wanted a torque-y motor for towing a race car trailer I set about figuring out how to shoehorn the thing in there. Ended up "adapting" one of those tubular engine swap mounts to the Buick. It was for a 460 Ford, but a couple of incisions and a bit of filing and it slid right in and got the big Buick down nice and low in the frame. Pulls hard at low RPMs now. Very happy with the results and spent very little on the actual swap. So what ever you decide...have fun with it! Squire | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | they're far too slow for my taste. How fast do you want to go? I find the 235 does very well in traffic, and even has good manners gong highway speeds. If you want to go faster, I have pushed mine into the triple digits, hummed along just as well as any V8 I've ever driven.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | I'd like a 0-60 time (like, to get on the highway?) less than 15 seconds. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I would certainly hope you're not sitting at 0 mph when you're getting on the highway! Even with a 350, and AD truck (or any other for that matter) will not go from 0-60 in sub 15 secnd time. Now, that Ferrari powered Task Force truck Jerry spoke of, that should do it.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | I hope you're kidding? My stock Toyota does 0-60 in 11 seconds. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 388 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 388 | Frank McGurk's 1952 pickup with a street-modified 216 did 0-60 in 11.0 seconds back in 1953. The time with the stock 216 was 16.6 seconds. With the 261 (bored to 278) engine described in the May 1955 HRM, Racer Brown reported a 0-60 time of "about 7-1/2 seconds" for the '52 pickup, with a slipping clutch. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | Right - the stock motor + how much $$$ speed equipment to almost match a stock V8? Your point: it could be fast enough if you make a project out of it (and don't mind idle quality, low-speed torque, gas mileage) My point: he doesn't want to. What was that he said about "reliable"? | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | 'My point: he doesn't want to. What was that he said about "reliable"?'
Not trying to get personal here, but how do you know what he wants? Are you Psychic? I believe this thread was started for ideas. I don't think any of us know how this will end, but many have made pleaded their case to validate thier own beliefs. And that's just what they are, their own beliefs. Few have any merrit whatsoever. Be nice! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2008 Posts: 1,922 | I'm not psychic. How do I know what he wants? I read his post: "but want it to be reliable". Evidently you didn't. Not trying to get personal here. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 619 "MONGO" | | "MONGO" Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 619 | In my opinion the easiest bolt in swap would be a later model 235/261 55 and later full pressure engine. Change the water pump to a short shaft (Or use the Adapter plate available from some vendors), relocate the bell crank bolt (carefully) to the other hole in the block and drill the front mount so it's like the earlier engine and drop it in. Those engines are just as reliable as any V motor (more so than some) and should be more than enough motor to tool around town and mellow speeds on the highway. These motors are typically plentiful on CL and usually you can get one someone is pulling from a running car or truck due to V-Motor bias. The later 250 style sixes and V8 swaps are very doable but are going to require much more work than the late early sixes that are pretty much dimensionally the same. If the exhaust is still there it will likely bolt right up. GM designed those blocks to be used as replacements for the earlier motors (Hence the extra bell crank hole). If when it's together he still want's to go faster then there's tranny swaps and rear swaps that will get him there. But if he want's to go "real" fast then there's other stuff like brakes that should be worked over first. When I slap on my Carnac hat and lean towards the screen to get his interpretation of "original but reliable" I think what he's looking for is not necessarily "Original" but "Period Correct" or "old school" as in he doesn't want to big an anachronism in his engine compartment. But once again that's my interpretation but I am a little Psychic at least when I'm wearing the Carnac hat.  Or is that Psychotic, maybe I should take my pills... MONGO | | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 | Thanks for all the ideas. Just to let you all know we have narrowed it down to 2 engines - either a 5hp briggs up front for reliability or a Lambrogini v-12 in the bed for horse power....will post pics in a month or so.
Thanks again
....David
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2010 Posts: 171 | Mongo ..... you are Carnac
....David
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 619 "MONGO" | | "MONGO" Joined: Jul 2000 Posts: 619 | Thank you.. Thank you very much. Dang that's not the Carnac hat it's the Elvis wig..
Good luck with your project and definitively let us know how it turns out! Mongo | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,897 | 'I read his post: "but want it to be reliable". Evidently you didn't.'
Wow! I read the posts... all of them. Thank you. Now can you please explain to me how putting a v8 in there makes it reliable. I guess you can say I'm a slow study here. I just don't see the connection between your reliability claims.
Also just for giggles can you break down an estimated cost of installing an 8 cylinder in this truck starting with fair market vallue of an engine, changing the transmission and rearend, updating the brakes, and possibly modifying the suspension and or steering. Oh yeah, one other thing... estimate these costs for someone who has the skills and tools and someone who doesn't and has to farm out the work. Here in SF the shop rate is $115-125/hour, but I will accept $90/hour as a national average.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 | Thanks for all the ideas. Just to let you all know we have narrowed it down to 2 engines - either a 5hp briggs up front for reliability or a Lambrogini v-12 in the bed for horse power....will post pics in a month or so.
Thanks again That there is funny.  The 8HP Tecumseh might just move it. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 | I know a lot of people here will disagree with me,but I would go with an SBC 350.There are many of them out there for sale,and its a relatively easy swap,plus you will have plenty of power.I am running a 350 in my 55 2nd series,and it runs like a dream.Also nothing wrong with the SB Ford engines,except they are harder to find and cost a lot more to buy.Go to any car show or cruisin and you will see many street rods and older cars beefed up with 350 SBs.And the owners are happy with them.My 55 2nd has a 350 which originally came from a 1974 Chevy pickup,a 700R4 auto overdrive tranny,and stock 3.90 rear gears. It gets me 20 MPG all day long city or country driving.And its got enough get up and go to pull away from just about any thing on the road.However being 73 years old,I take it pretty easy on the old girl.
Last edited by dale937; 11/08/2010 7:33 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | ...Go to any car show or cruisin and you will see many street rods and older cars beefed up with 350 SBs... Yeah, too many. It's pretty boring. | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 482 | With the Briggs you have to get out to pull the starter rope. Go with the Lamborgini...for the purists you may keep the foot starter... | | |
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