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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,130 Posts1,056,702 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 6 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 6 | I just got my '53 pickup a little over a week ago. I have a few questions already... 1) My VIN # on the plate inside the driver door is H530019452, which came up at VIN Buster as a 1953 3100 Comm 1/2 ton. The engine number on the block, LBA957399 came up as a 1953 Series 3100, 216ci Truck Engine here. Anyway, I'm just wondering if this means that the engine is not original since the numbers don't match. My title uses the engine number. 2) What is the bet fix for wipers. Repair the vacuum wipers or change them to electric? 3) I noticed my right rear brake started smoking after I parked yesterday. I am going to have the brakes inspected. Any ideas what this could be from? While it is in the shop, what else would be good to have them inspect or do while it is there. I think that it has been fairly well maintained. 4) I have a 4 speed on the floor. It shifts fine. I was just wondering how to check the transmission fluid level. 5) I have been checking the oil, coolant and brake fluid levels and they are all good. Any other routine checks that are good to make on these old trucks? 6) I noticed that the accelerator sticks, and I have to tap the gas pedal to get it to decelerate. Is this an easy fix? Thanks for your help and patience and I know these are probably dumb questions! | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Welcome. They aren't dumb questions but the are for the most part routine questions that could be answered with a little research. However, I admit the search engine on this site leaves a lot to be desired.
The forums here have specific topics and several of your questions should be asked in another forum. Also, you'd probably get better answers with one question per post. There are lots of knowledgeable people here that don't mind sharing their knowledge but to answer all your questions would take a bit of time. We are all hobbyists and nobody gets paid for any of this.
I'll start with question 1. Body numbers and engine numbers didn't match. Most states used engine numbers for titling purposes until the mid '50s. I believe CA was one of those states. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | I'll take number 2: It depends on what you want. Electric are much more efficient however if you want to keep the wiper orig. then rebuilt it from A to Z
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | 10JOKA:
Welcome to the Stovebolt Page. I'm a novice myself, but what the heck, I'll take #3. (Besides, if I'm out of the ballpark, someone else will surely let us know. Then it'll be a learning experience for both of us!)
A couple of things come to mind, e.g. dragging shoe or axle lub leaking into the drum. Where there's smoke there's friction.
Heck, a rat could have made a nest in there and you're heating his home with the friction from braking!
The hub needs to be pulled and empirical information gained. Really. It isn't all that hard. I can attest to that. And I'm Automotive-Technologically Impaired. Just ask around.
As cletis said, it really is a good idea to use the Search feature (for easy access, located at the left side bar). You can gain A LOT of basic information from those who have been just right where you're at now and have become more enlightened.
Good luck to you, 10JOKA.
Last edited by Davey Do; 10/13/2010 12:21 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | I want to show off my vast array of finite knowledge:
The answer to #4 is... on the right hand side of your transmission is a square 3/4" plug. Remove it with the wrench of your choice, sick your pinkie in there and feel for some lub OR you could try to fill it with 90 wt. gear oil 'til it runs out!
(If you do the Search you'll note that I asked the very same question some months ago.)
Last edited by Davey Do; 10/13/2010 12:37 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2009 Posts: 419 | This is really fun and I'm having a really good time, but I must direct you to a great source thanks to Mr. Keith Hardy: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.comYou will find Lots of information here. BTW: Nice looking truck! | | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | Just a general comment order a reproduction or search eBay for and original owners manual for your 53' it will cover lube points and basic maintenance and looks great in the glovebox. Follow that up with the purchase of the requisite shop manual for your year and you will be well on your way information wise. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,270 | Please let us know if you find a 1953 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual.
A "reprint" 1948-1951 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual with 1952 Supplement is available - some vendors say they have a 48-53 manual but that is unlikely to have a specific section for 1953 (even on CD-ROM). 1953 is very similar to 1952, which is very similar to 1951.
A 1953 Chevrolet Truck Operators Manual is available in reproduction (and originals can often be found on eBay, etc).
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,989 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 2,989 | On #6, the first thing I'd try is to check over all the linkage and make sure nothing is binding. Lube everything to make sure it is moving freely. Maybe you need a stronger return spring. | | | | | Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 82 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2008 Posts: 82 | 1) Others' comments are correct. Actually, this would suggest that you DO have the original motor. Every state is different, but I would think that if in "modern times" the engine was swapped, the Title would be changed to the VIN and not the new engine number.
2) I'd go electric unless you really want to go 100% stock on your truck. Or if you don't drive in the rain. That's personal preference.
6) Is it really sticking, or are you just kicking it out of fast idle with the throttle foot-stab?
1956 Chevy 3600 Dually
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | ...Every state is different, but I would think that if in "modern times" the engine was swapped, the Title would be changed to the VIN and not the new engine number. In Texas, if a modern engine without an engine number is installed your vehicle gets an assigned number. | | |
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