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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 121 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 121 | i have a 49 chevy.i didnt have the keys to the original ignition switch so i ordered a whole new key set (door,glovebox,ignition tumbler) im just wondering how to remove the old one with no key.it has a tiny little hole about the size of a paper clip and the new one has two of the same size holes on the face of the ign. lock. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Thanks Danny | | | | | Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2009 Posts: 2,201 | On the old one, you need the key to get the tumbler out. If you had the key you wouldn't want to get the tumbler out. You will have to take it to a locksmith or drill it out being very careful not to destroy the switch in the process. I vote for the locksmith route. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | The old one might be worn enough to work with another key. If you can find one that will work turn the switch then insert a paperclip into the hole. You should then be able to turn it a little more and get the switch out. Which way to turn it depends on the particular switch but I believe he '49 just had on and off.
Another option would be remove the door lock. It probably has a key code stamped on the outside. Have a key made to that code.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 121 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 121 | thanks.ive tried about a hundred keys.none seem to turn it.i think ill just go the locksmith route. Thanks Danny
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 456 | I just did this to my '51 chevy and it's not hard. You don't have to have a key to the original switch to get it out. Look at this Switch Tech Tip and it will guide you. The secret is to get the detent pushed in with a paper clip (I used a small jewelers screwdriver), and rotate the key to the LEFT. You can use any key to turn it while the detent is pushed down. It took me several tries to get it out, then I put it back in a couple times to practice and I got better at it. Good luck, George | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 9,115 | OK so the Tech Tip shows how using the correct ignition key. Now how do you do this without the correctly coded key? | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 Ex Hall Monitor | | Ex Hall Monitor Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 6,377 | My 38 car turns to the right to remove the tumbler. The ignition is turned to the on position, the spring is pushed in with the paper clip, then it's turned a bit further to the right to remove. It looks nothing like Trev's tech tip.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | I just did this to my '51 chevy and it's not hard. You don't have to have a key to the original switch to get it out. Look at this Switch Tech Tip and it will guide you. The secret is to get the detent pushed in with a paper clip (I used a small jewelers screwdriver), and rotate the key to the LEFT. You can use any key to turn it while the detent is pushed down. It took me several tries to get it out, then I put it back in a couple times to practice and I got better at it. Good luck, George I don't know what kind of switch you were working with but on the factory switches the pin that needs to be pushed in to remove the cylinder is not accessible until the cylinder is rotated, with the key in it, to where the hole is over the pin. Now some are worn so much that a screwdriver tip can turn it without a key but the hole still has to be over the pin in order to depress it. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2008 Posts: 899 | Sometimes you just have to go to the pro....a locksmith in this case. He can make a new key for the lock. Just had one done for me $25.
Ed
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 57 | I was given an ignition switch from a guy around here, but he didn't have the key. I would rather not spend money at a locksmith if I can drill out the lock cylinder or pick it myself. I don't care about the cylinder only the switch behind. Anyone have any tips?
Nick 1957 3100 Army Base Runner Cenosillicaphobia
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 452 | If you can pick it and turn it, then you can remove it by pushing the little locking pin in with a paperclip. look for a small round hole or pin. Only works with the tumblers keyed (and turned, IIRC). The cylinder then slides out the front of the switch. Install is the reverse.
Good luck
Current fleet (subject to change w/o notice) \'49 GMC 3/4-Ton , 60 Austin Healey Frog-eye Sprite (some assembly required), 2011 Dodge Avenger, 2015 Jeep Cherokee. No, they don't all run. My other ride is a (B737)no, (B767)no, A320.... Update... was Embraer E190, now Boeing B787. Knowledge is a wonderful thing, but ignorance means you don't know you can't do something.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 57 | Yea, picking the lock is pretty tough anyone know where and how a locksmith would drill it?
Nick 1957 3100 Army Base Runner Cenosillicaphobia
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | A locksmith probably would not drill it. He'd probably use a master key set or pick it. Before you drill it, pull the door handle and get the number off the lock in it. Take that number to a locksmith and have him cut a new key. Unless the ignition lock has been changed it will work. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 506 | Had the same problem with a 1950.
Did like Cletis said, remove the lock from the door and take it to a locksmith. The number is the key to the key.
The key number should also be on the glove box lock.
See your locksmith before you drill.....
-Tom
1950 Chevy 3100 w/ 1956 235
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 422 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 422 | On my 53 the glovebox key is different than the ignition and door! The door and ignition are the same. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | AD, they were the same when they left the factory.
Tom, I've never seen the code number stamped on a glovebox lock. But I've only dealt with the'47 to '59. What years?
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 57 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 57 | All good words of advice except for one thing this ignition came from a different truck. I was just hoping to salvage the expense switch behind the lock cylinder. The locksmiths all say that they'd have to drill into the casing around the cylinder to get it out. None of them have even suggested picking the lock and they all want around $30 to do it. At that price I'm close to just buying a new switch.
Nick 1957 3100 Army Base Runner Cenosillicaphobia
| | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: May 2001 Posts: 7,438 | Shame you're not closer. I have a set of master keys. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 64 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 64 | As a former locksmith, it isn't easy to drill them without damage to the back and switch, and they don't pick easily. If you can find the code stamped on the housing, call a few locksmiths and find one that can cut to the code. I had a Honda code cut for my 90 accord with 405,000 miles on it and it made the lock work like new. Cost $12. If you have the key, you just turn the key to the on position, and stick a paper clip in the little hole and it should turn more and come out and you can replace it with your old cylinder if that is what you are after. Good Luck
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. - Thomas Edison
1941 AL 3/4 ton 125-1/4 WB, bought by my Great Uncle Matt in 1942. Still in the family.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 2 Moderated | | Moderated Joined: Dec 2012 Posts: 2 | Awesome thread. Made a big difference for me and my 53. It's funny peculiar that you have something that you think you own. Without the Stovebolter's, those precious things that you think you own... in reality, own you. Thank you so much for providing a way to the truth. I paid $15.00 and a engineless 68 VW bug in trade for my truck back in 1979-80. I'm the second or third owner. For the first five years I drove it around running on five cylinders. I didn't know that I had a burnt valve on number 5 until I learned the benefits of using a vacuum gauge. During the tear down I discovered that I also had the wrong distributor cap and rotor. After reassembly it was like a new truck! Since then over the years I have driven this old friend somewhere in the neighborhood of 2 million miles with regular maintenance and the very best replacement parts and lubricants money can buy. Now with kindred spirits here at the Stovebolt, I'm looking forward to another 3 million miles. May the Good Lord bless you all. Respectfully yours, Qonnor. | | |
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