Want to work on the front brake cylinders...had to remove the tire wheel with the drum attached because they would not separate. Talk about HEAVY!!! Its a 48 1.5 ton...5 lug. Seems like they are struck together and I don't want to go pounding on it with a big [censored] hammer...I've soaked it with penetrant, tried pry bars, jumped on it...suggestions? and if someone tells me there are hidden bolts somewhere I think I'd throw up a little... thanks,
If the wheel is stuck to the hub, it is probably rusted tight. Put some penetrating oil around the studs and in the extra 5 holes in the wheel that have no studs. Let it soak a day or so. Then lay the assembly on a floor with the drum down. Put a piece of hard wood on the hub and hit the wood with a sledge hammer. It is easiest to remove rusted tight wheels while they are still on the truck by hitting them on the inner side of the tire with a sledge hammer.
I kinda thought I'd have to resort to a big hammer...I was kinda leery about beating on these wheels because of the split rim thing going on. Luckily, from all I can tell I don't have those widowmaker wheels that split in the middle...
Wrap a few small pieces of chain through the hand holes on the wheels, between the drums, and presto. No worries about danger unseating the ring when you beat on it.
Try heating things up after you apply the penetrating oil. Use a small torch or a heat gun. The expansion-contraction cycle helps the penetrating oil..... penetrate.....
thanks for all the suggestions...penetrating oil, some heat, some banging...if all that doesn't work I'll drive my tractor's front wheel up on it, that'll do 'er.
4 guys spent 45 minutes trying to "un-bead" a 10.00x20 tire on a Budd wheel last week at my shop. Resorted to driving a fire truck (with same, big tires) over the stubborn tire. No good. Finally decided that, if the local truck tire place was insane enough to only charge $16.50 for removing tires, we'd gladly let them have the fun.
Haven't picked up the wheels yet, but guessing we'll get some dirty looks when we do . . .
Caution. Heating the rim with the tire on can be very risky. Remove the valve stem before heating. The heat from the drum and rim will make the tire pressure rise extremely high and can explode the tire. Be careful.
Mike, If the tire shop has someone experienced in knocking down tube required tires, they probably knocked them all down in 15 minutes. I changed hundreds of them in the 60's and 70's. I started the switch to tubeless in the mid 70's.
Dont heat anything till you let air out of the tire. Remember physics class about heating a "gas" (air), it expands and could blow the tire and seriously injure or even kill someone. It has happened. Not trying to insult your intelligence but thought I'd just throw it out there for everyone. If you give advice about heating wheels just throw in that tid bit of info so we don't get anyone hurt here.
I've used the starting fluid to seat tires. not the safest but it does work. Didn't use flame throw type of lighting just sprayed a little trail of fluid and lit that.
Yeah, my bad for not adding that. Let the air out even though you only should be heating the lug area. Good safety practice, thanks for catching my omission.
Somewhere I have a picture of it but here's how we've done it in the past. Bottle Jack, a short piece of good chain and a short piece of square tubing the chain will go through(Heavy stuff 2-3 inches long), and some Heavy duty nuts and bolts that fit through the chain. Slide the chain through the tubing and then loop the ends of the chain through the holes in the wheels and back to it's self. Bolt the chain to it's self. Make sure it's solid and the bolts can't slip through the chain. slip your bottle jack in between the tubing/chain and the center hub. Pump it up from the side. Make sure your not in front of any of the parts that are under tension. Once it's tight after about 3-4 pumps it goes clink very un-dramatically. The first time we did it about 4 guys had worked on it an hour or so before we stopped and thought it through. Works like a charm. Mongo
Turns out I did have pictures of this. Doesn't include the tubing or the bolts, This was with a short piece of chain that had hooks on each end and a padlock to shorten it up. Big bolt wheel Removal Mongo
We have had to resort to the method of the above picture with aluminum hub piloted wheels on steel hubs that have been on salted roads. We now have an attachment we built for a Porto Power that works on the same principle. We never could get the bottle jack to stay put.
None of my bottle jacks work if they're laying on their side like in the picture. Its a good idea though, I think I'd go for the portapower, or do the chains like in the picture, then hook a come along to the chain, and a near by tree, or tractor. Either way I had the same problem with my 41 1.5 ton, I jacked it up, got under the truck and hit the tire with a sledge as I spun the tire to try and get it to move evenly off the wheel studs. These wheels are hub piloted so if it doesnt slide evenly it will bind and then you get to hit it back on some. No matter what it was a bit of a [censored].
Virtually any bottle jack will work sideways IF you put the pump cylinder on the downhill side. The fluid in the main jack body must be able to get to the small cylinder that does the pumping. We used 20-ton jacks for frame straightening at Dad's shop all through the 50's and 60's. Jerry
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