The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop What's the best way to pull/install engine?

I have limited garage space. I need to pull my 52 GMC 3/4 ton in so that I can either pull my head and check for warpage, or pull the engine if the head checks out. I'd like to go nose-first, so that I'm at least partially hidden from the HOA. But to use a cherry picker, I'd have to go in from the side.

Considering the high radiator mount, I probably need to go in from the side anyway. So what's the best way for those of you who've pulled/installed stovebolts in these trucks? Remove the front tire, support on jack stand and go in from the side?

Thanks.

Pull the whole front clip before removing the engine. It makes it so much easier,
Scott

If you can get into the attic, lay a 4x4 across 4 or 5 of your rafters... then you can use a chain hoist to pop the engine out and onto the engine stand....

Just make sure you dont pull the roof down around your ears...

Use the picker and as Scott said, pull the whole front clip and grille as well as the front bumper. I did mine and documented most of it.

http://community.webshots.com/user/geezer

Take off the whole front end, fenders, radiator support, (front clip) then the engine is a snap.
You can take it off as one piece. Two people can lift it off no prob.

Disassemble the entire front of the truck???......



What is the issue exactly? Is it that the engine is too tall for a standard cherry picker to lift it past the fenders, or what?

Sure it is really easy and you can make sure everything is tight and where it should be when you re-assemble as well as....52, maybe replacing the fender rubber etc? Anyway, no fear. I have done this with the 60's camaros and the whole front end will come off with about 15 or so bolts. should be the same with these ol'trucks. If you are apprehensive, document it with a digital camera, but there aren't that many pieces. Also makes for easy engine compartment touch up and repaint also!

A bare minimum would be to remove the grill, radiator, and radiator support. as well as any wiring or cross bracing that crosses over the engine. The exact issue for me personally is that it is a real PITA to keep all that sheet metal in place and try to remove the engine. It takes about an hour to clear everything out of the way on my 49 chevy 3100. I also take the transmission & motor out as a unit and also change the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing while its out. But thats just me.

HotRodDad, I was also surprised when somebody told me that it is easier to remove all of the front sheetmetal. However, once I did this, I don't know why anyone would try to remove the engine with the front sheetmetal on the truck. It really is simple to remove, and once the engine is out, it is easy to replace.

Hot Rod Dad

Take a look at my webshots album on the 235-261 swap. All you need to remove on your GMC is the grill, surround, front bumper and apron, radiator and support. The engine will come out the front without needing to remove the hood.

I'd suggest working in the night hours. How big is your garage? One or two car? If it is 2 car, go get a set of dollies and turn the truck diagonal and you can work in there with the door shut...

I'm really surprised that so many of you recommend removing the doghouse w/o even mentioning how totally difficult realinging the hood is. At least it is a little easier when all you do is remove the hood while leaving the radiator surround in place.

I'll NEVER take another one off.

Took my hood off and just the radiator and grille as shown on the pics. Like 51greenmachine (Sweet) said, no real need to remove the fenders unless you want to. Pulled off all the extra crap on the engine sides and took it out tranny and all. Put it back in with the tranny on and the alternator, oil filter, oil draft tube, starter, distributor, intake and exhaust manifolds, etc. Just need to be careful as you ease it into the radiator bay area. It's easier than you think. As far as reinstalling the hood......I guess I'll see when I do it.

You don't have to pull the hood if you pull the clip do you?
Scott

I guess I never had a problem with re-aligning the hood. All my trucks had to earn their keep, so if it wasn't showroom perfect, well neither am I.
That being said, if your hood is how you like it you WILL need to keep track (& label) of any shims that you come across and put them back in the same place.
I can't take a fender off my truck without making marks to re-align it. Just be careful & have fun!!

Well, I pulled my head to perform an autopsy, and the entire surface of the head gasket was very wet. At that point, I really suspected a "banana" for a head. Sure enough, it's warped. The middle of the head isn't sealing to the block.

Just to make sure, I rotated the engine and looked down every hole and the bores look absolutely perfect. Checked for warpage on the top of the block, and it's fine.

...So there you have it!

I was wrong and you all were right. Warped head I guess.

Here's a question, can the head bolts be reused, or is it recommended to get a new set? I torqued all the bolts, warmed up the engine and torqued again. Taking it apart, some bolts almost seemed loose while others are tight.
I was concerned about bolt stretch.

Thanks for the advice guys. This is a great forum!

I find that it's easier just to take the truck apart and put it back together around a new motor.

Get new bolts, cheap insurance.

I know you probably aren't going to pull the motor now, but I did mine by pulling the grille and radiator/support, but left the fenders in place and marked everything so I could line it back up. It was fine.

You can remove the fenders without pulling the hood but you don't really need to.

You do want to pull the transmission before the engine, otherwise its just too awkward, at least with a 4 speed.

Get new bolts. Chances are if the head warped it stretched a few bolts.

Head bolt torque is determined by the yield point of the bolt material and they arein tension. If the bolts have been over torqued they may be, beyond the yield point. Over time due to heat and vibration a material in tension will normalize and relax. This lowers the yield point. Good practice to replace an older set of head bolts.
Can you get away with reusing the old bolts? Sure, most of the time, but there is always the acceptation.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Hot Rod Dad: I think your going to find the head bolt repalacements to be a lot more difficult to find than the responders might lead you to believe. I've looked high and low for them but if someone has a source please list the website for others in need.

Here they are Dave: http://www.chevsofthe40s.com/search.lasso?search=head+bolt&dept=car

Well I helped a guy remove the engine on his 51 witout removing the clip. We removed the clip and then reinstalled the engine it was so much easier. But to each his own.
You WILL remove the clip on a 41. Let me refrase that, YOU WILL REMOVE THE CLIP ON A 1941!

Oh!? Another twist on this is that at the factory they installed the engine before the body was installed, maybe because it was less time consuming.